 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: dsadsa
Date: 2002-02-19 02:45
what's the diff? what are the advantages of each?
how does this look?
http://www.jonesdoublereed.com/Products_123A.html
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Author: dsadsa
Date: 2002-02-19 03:21
also, any of u try the rigotti knives?
i saw one with Beveled edge with hollow ground back
what does that mean? does it like combine both or something?
and what's the rigotti "razor" knife like as described on jeanne inc?
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Author: Jim E.
Date: 2002-02-19 04:15
In general, hollow ground blades are cut on a grinding wheel, the hollow is caused by the circumfernce of the wheel, beveled edges are done with a flat file or a flat stone. In my experience (I'm a woodworker) most blades are hollow ground because its easier. Most edges also have a secondary or "micro bevel" which is produced with a flat stone (or diamond hone) and produces the real sharpness. Grinding this edge can produce a thin "wire edge" which is then flattened with a steel or a strop (the leather piece a barber might use on a razor.) The blade you described would indeed have its 2 sides each done diferently. A wood chisel is done this way, but the bevel is of a much different angle from a knife. To me, the 2 important factors are how sharp is it, and how long will it hold its edge (ie stay sharp.) Holding an edge is more an issue of the alloy and temper of the metal, than of the technique in grinding the bevel.
Having said all of this, I hate sharpening, and am likely to send my tools out when they need more than a touch up with a stone.
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Author: Jim E.
Date: 2002-02-19 04:53
I read this post and replied before I read your other thread. (Its less confusing to me if all related posts are kept in the same thread.)
If you can get by with disposable blade knives, that's definitely the way to go. I use them exclusively for my woodworking, though I do occasionally give them a rub on the stone to keep them going a bit longer.
A stone is available in Home Depot/ Lowes etc for around $10. There are both water and oil varieties. This refers to the lubricant used on the stone. I prefer oil, and a lifetime supply is a few $. Do NOT use a stone dry. (Don't drop the stone either, it will break!) The stone usually has 2 faces, one finer than the other. Use the coarser side first, and finish with the fine. Be careful not to use the same spot on the stone all the time, it will wear a depression, and then you will need a stone dresser to flatten it.
Diamond hones are available at Woodworkers Warehouse and from mailorder supply houses. They cost under $20. They work no better than stones (in my opinion) but are handier and cleaner to carry and store.
It is also possible to sharpen with a piece or 600 - 800 emery cloth held on a piece of plate glass.
With both, do not grind the primary bevel, only work on the micro bevel, that means holding the blade a few degrees more vertically than the angle of the primary in relation to the stone or hone. Grind both sides evenly, unless the back side is flat with no microbevel, in that case sharpen the front only.
If you mess up an edge, take it to a pro who will likely only charge a few $, look for someone who sharpens mower blades, scissors, or ice skates, they will be able to do this.
Do I have you confused yet???
If you get good at this, I'll send you my chisels to sharpen!
You still are better off with disposables or Xactos if at all possible. (Remember, I hate sharpening.)
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Author: Wes
Date: 2002-02-19 19:11
For many years, I've made a lot of oboe reeds with a Vitry($20) double hollow ground French knife. To sharpen, one easily can push it about 30 strokes on each side flat on a dry stone and then put a curl on the edge by pushing it in the direction of use about 10 degrees upward for about 3 or 4 strokes. Good luck!
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