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 reed response
Author: sarah 
Date:   2001-12-07 02:38

I found some reeds that I like, but the response is less then desirable. Where would I sand to increase response? Also, what grit sandpaper would you use?

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 RE: reed response
Author: Wes 
Date:   2001-12-07 06:11

Hi Sarah!

You could get many opinions from your question. I always use silicon carbide paper as it is very hard and cuts well. 350 or 400 grit is not bad. To loosen up a reed that is too stiff, I try thinning the tip first either by sanding the last 3/8 inch thinner or by putting a somewhat defined V shaped thinning on the tip. The latter is done by sanding the corners down with the tip of the V about 3/16 inch from the center tip of the reed. It's kind of like an oboe reed tip.

If the low note response is still a little fuzzy after working on the tip, you might sand the reed overall from the tip to the end of the cut at the bark. You may try this while first avoiding the center or spine but that will be up to you and the results you get and want. Good Luck!!

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 RE: reed response
Author: Hiroshi 
Date:   2001-12-07 07:09

I found two Japanese pros who have measrured by micrometers at least twenty years Vandoren reeds tip thickness. They are becoming thicker and thicker in micron. However present Vandoren's tips are 'precisely' diamond cut. Poor adjusters will make the matters worse. Such measurement devices such as PerfectReed with micron meter may be a must to music major people.

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 RE: reed response
Author: sarah 
Date:   2001-12-07 13:53

I am using Vandorens right now. I find that mith my set up the traditional dosn't have the "darkness" that I have found in the V12s. I don't want to trun this into a post where people just shout what reed they use, but I felt that people might be able to help with those specifically. Furthermore, the V12s do not match the tip of my mouthpiece, so I must sand them a bit at the tip (this was all demonstrated and reccomended by my teacher). This could be what is causing the response problems that I would like to fix. The reeds arn't too hard, they just don't respond as much as I would like.

Hiroshi said, "However present Vandoren's tips are 'precisely' diamond cut. Poor adjusters will make the matters worse."

It is impossible for every reed to work with every mouthpiece. To just disregard a reed because something is slightly out of balance for your ree-mouthpiece combo is wrong. The tips of the traditional and V12 are different and I have to compensate for my set up.

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 RE: reed response
Author: werner 
Date:   2001-12-07 15:40

If I have a brand new reed that doesn't respond, then
I am pushing the nail of my thumb 1/4 inch behind the tip into the reed, bending the reed a bit into the window of the mouthpiece. This will lift the tip, the sound becomes
more free, the reed response improves.

If the reed doesn't respond easily (and isn't to stiff)
after let's say two days playing,
then I start with carefully removing some wood on
the first 3/8 inch of the end of the cut.
Removing a bit of the bark in this area
helps sometimes too.

I am doing this after I balanced the reed 3/16 inches
behind the tip and before I am doing anything with the
tip of the reed.

But you certainly don't want to try this on your best
reeds, do you ;)

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 RE: reed response
Author: Sandra 
Date:   2001-12-08 13:10

Hi Sarah! Have you read "The Clarinetist's Compendium" by Daniel Bonade? It's still in print and has lots of good reed-working information. I recommend it for my students. I like Vandoren reeds. I use the Blackmasters, but you could try the Whitemaster's for different mouthpiece sizing. Personally, I don't care for the V-12's, but I know that others like them. I gave up reed rush and sandpaper long ago, because it was labor intensive. I now use an oboe knife (or bassoon knife) because I can be more precise in my reed adjustments and can use the knife on a wet or dry reed. It's saved me much time and reeds. I can also make minute adjustments. I use a small, rectangular piece of glass not much larger than my reed to hold my reed while I work on them, because I can hold it to a light as I work. The glass allows me to see through the reed between adjustments without taking the reed off the glass. In fact some of the older clarinets came with reed boxes with these glass pieces fitted inside them. The key is to use reeds to fit your mouthpiece, then adjust them.
After you read the Bonade book and still have questions, please feel free to email me. Sandra

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 RE: reed response
Author: Hiroshi 
Date:   2001-12-11 07:53

Kalmen Opperman's reed book has far more detail. Almost for reed adjustment freaks. It is out of print unfortunately. The best thing will be to use reeds which do not need any adjustments. Alexander Classic. Its bottom surface is diamond cut too and its porouses are much more dense.

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