 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: john gibson
Date: 2001-10-23 19:57
Hi there guys and gals...
I'm having a problem with the left hand C key. For some reason it doesn't want to sound. Just get a squeak or nothng at all. Sort of like a rag stuck in the bell preventing air. Adjustment? Bad pad? Help!!
Also regarding an earlier post on the thread dealing with Boosey 1010's and their need for a special MPC. Why not a VanDoren 5JB? A big open MPC that can push the needed air for the big bore.
Thanks....John
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Author: Ken Shaw
Date: 2001-10-23 21:22
John -
If the right hand C key works, the the problem is in the mechanism (at the bottom of the left-hand lever) connecting the left hand lever to the part hlding the pad. There's usually a thin strip of cork in between, to keep the metal parts from clicking together. All or part of the cork has fallen out.
The problem with French style mouthpieces on the B&H 1010 is not that the tip opening is too small. It's that the chamber inside is too small, which throws the intonation way out. English-bore clarinets need a different mouthpiece design.
Best regards.
Ken Shaw
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Author: ron b
Date: 2001-10-23 21:44
Another common cause is the alternate(long) C lever rubbing against the C#/G# - it doesn't take much to make it hang up - have you checked that? If that's the cause, gently pull the side C or the C#/G# back where it/they belong(s).
- ron b -
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Author: Meri
Date: 2001-10-23 23:29
And how do I do that? I'm having problems with my left F/C key as well, there seems to be a delay in its response, that it is sluggish, most evident in fast passages requiring that key, other playing problems being ruled out.
Meri
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Author: john gibson
Date: 2001-10-24 00:54
Ken....
Thanks....the small piece of cork is missing entirely from the connection you spoke of. Been gone ever since I got the clarinet a year ago...
So where do you get an "English bore" MPC? I'm interested in getting a Boosey 1010 and don't want to invest in it unless I can "get it right".
Also....someone explain to me the difference between French...English and german "sounds". Isn't a clarinet.....a clarinet?
Thanks again....John
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Author: ron b
Date: 2001-10-24 04:26
Hard to say without looking at it, Meri. Just guessing, it might need a tiny drop of oil, screw adjustment, cork - things you can check out yourself. Start with the simplest things first. Now, if the key is bent or you have a weakened spring or something... that's a little trickier, but not beyond your means, to fix.
If the C#/G# is bent (it's prone to bumps and snags) you can usually tweak it back with your fingers. The alternate C key, also prone to strange things happening to it, if it's bent, might need a little more persuasion, round needle nose pliers or some such. In any case, if you need to 'get physical', proceed gently. You can put some thin (manila) card stock between the tool and the key to help prevent marring. If you're still uncertain about using a tool, take it to a repair shop. I doubt they'd charge you anything to do that (well, maybe a dollar) and... if They break it, They gotta fix it :o)
- ron b -
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-10-24 13:02
On perhaps 3/4 of the many hundreds of instruments I have worked on, this cork has been missing or badly damaged. I have never met a situation where the absence of this cork has been the cause of the C key not working. The absence makes the operation noisy and increases the necessary trabvel of the LH lever.
Meri wrote "How do I do that", presumably referring to bending the LH C lever to stop it hitting (LH) G#. are you saying Meri, that this hitting is the case with your clarinet?
A 'sluggish' LH C lever can be from binding pivot screws, key binding between posts, loose post, excessive play in point pivots, loose (RH) C key post, over-thick linkage cork, poor design of linkage, such that there is a high degree of rubbing action rather than 'rolling' action against the linkage cork, binding (RH) C key pivot tube, Sharp edge where the LH lever contacts the cork, poorly seated pad, non-level or rough tone hole edge, etc.
Some of these reasons relate to the LH finger exerting less force through to the pad than the RH finger does, because of linkage friction and less leverage involved for the LH. This will make many problems such as pad seating show up for the LH before they show up[ for the RH.
A much better than average technician is needed to do a good job on setting up this area of a clarinet.
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Author: KAYLA
Date: 2001-10-24 15:46
JOHN-
i have had trouble my self with the left c key. you have to make sure it is properly pushed down. by the time you are finished playing, your fingures should have red makes on them from pushing down the keys. also remember the keep your ombesure closed, like sucking on a straw. if that doesn't work i would suggest getting new pads, your pads may not be big enough.
-kayla
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Author: Todd Wees
Date: 2001-10-24 17:56
john gibson--
Two sources for mouthpieces to fit the 1010 clarinets are Peter Eaton (a sneezy sponsor) and Edward Pillinger (has a web site). Both are in England.
Todd W.
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2001-10-25 04:41
Meri wrote:
>I'm having problems with my left F/C key as well, there seems to be a delay in its response,
>that it is sluggish, most evident in fast passages requiring that key, other playing problems
>being ruled out.
Meri, the left hand F/c key operates not only more hardware, but *two* springs and a linkage. The right hand F/c key only operates one spring. Thus, adjustment must be done very carefully to ensure that the left operation will be nearly as good as the right. It can never be better; and in fact, the right F/c key will pretty much always provide snappier response than the left key. You can check it yourself to see if things have a chance of working properly: First, press down the Right F/c key and see if the left key moves freely or jjust flaps around. It should not move, awaiting your left finger pressure, because of the resistance of a spring. Second, check to see that the F/c pad begins moving downward as soon as the Left F/c key is moved. There should be no delay at all. Third, ensure that the F/c pad can be fully depressed by using the left F/c Key. If any of these tests shows improper response, your clarinet needs to see a *good* technician.
This work is very easy to do, but not so easy to do well. Gordon (NZ) put it very well: "A much better than average technician is needed to do a good job on setting up this area of a clarinet."
I do hope you have no trouble in getting your clarinet to perform properly.
Regards,
John
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