 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: michaela
Date: 2001-09-09 14:24
Dear fellow clarinetists--
Does anyone know what kind of adhesive repair shops use when working with the cork on clarinets? I would be interested in doing this myself, if I can get the right materials. I read on an "emergency repair tips" page that *fingernail polish* could be used in a jam. I'm not about to put fingernail polish on my wooden Selmer clarinet, but if any of you could suggest something else, I'd much appreciate it. (And yes, I know I should probably just take the clarinet to the shop, but I know I could do this repair on my own-- I just know it!! <g>)
Many thanks--
Michaela
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Author: jbutler
Date: 2001-09-09 15:06
Most use a contact cement such as Barges, Weld-Wood, Duco, et.al.
I personally use contact cement from Tandy Leather. I think it is Barges but at a cheaper price. I suggest you purchase the smallest amount available, perhaps in a squeeze tube. It will get thick and not usable if exposed to the open air too long. There is a thinner, but for you that would be an unecessary expense. In addition you will need the appropriate cork. I use 3/64. Be sure to use a sharp single edge razor blade and bevel one end of the cork strip to be applied and coat it with the cement also. That way when you are wrapping the cork around you will have a beveled joint rather than a butt joint. Also, use the razor blade to bevel the inside and outside edge after you've got the strip on. This will reduce sanding time and help prevent getting onto the wood part of the tenon with a sandpaper strip. Go slow and check every so often when sanding down the cork. When you get to the point the joints will go about half way together without cork grease you've got the right thickness. Apply cork grease and assemble. The act of putting the instrument together will compress the cork the rest of the way so you'll have a tight fit.
John
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Author: Terry Horlick
Date: 2001-09-09 16:33
Another place to get small amounts of this cement is to use weatherstriping cement available in tubes at all auto parts stores... same stuff.
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Author: Jack Kissinger
Date: 2001-09-09 17:35
There is a good set of step-by-step instructions (similar to John's advice but with a little more detail) on how to do this from Steve Prescott, an experienced repair tech, right here on Sneezy at:
http://www.sneezy.org/clarinet/Equipment/Care/TenonCork.html
To sand, I cut a narrow strip of sand paper (about the width of the unbeveled part of the cork or a little less) and about 5" in length. Then I press it lightly against the cork with my left hand (which is also holding the joint) and pull through with my right hand. I find this reduces the risk of sanding the wood.
Be careful when you are putting the pieces together to see if you've sanded enough. If the fit is too tight and you use too much force, you can crack the socket.
Best regards,
jnk
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Author: Robert Gifford
Date: 2001-09-10 05:07
Also the Woodwind and Brasswind (and I'm sure lots of other places) have the ready molded, just stick on cork made by Valentino. They have Key Corks, Joint Corks, as well as Neck Cork for Sax. I don't know how well it actually lasts compared to gluing it on yourself, but it would be good for emergency purposes.
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Author: ron b
Date: 2001-09-10 07:30
You could try doing like they used to in the olden days. Wrap some thread around it 'til it fits tight enough, then stop winding and tie the end. Put a little grease on it and you're back in business. Tell your friends it's the latest fashion :]
- ron b -
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-09-10 11:58
I have tried every type of contact glue I can lay my hands on. Every one (including weatherstriping cement) has been pathetic compared with "Evostik Impact Adhesive" made by Evode in Britain.
As far as I know it is not available in US. That is so silly!
Perhaps you could talk Ferrees into importing it because Ferrees outlet in Britain, Windcraft, stocks it. Windcraft have told me there is not a problem shipping it, but I normally buy it through a local importer who sells mainly their vast array of self-adhesive tapes.
Also, there is a recent connection between Evode & Bostik. Perhaps US has a Bostik agent.
This glue spreads thinly, has a very acceptable cork-like colour, dfries for 'contacting' within a minute, holds very securely, even on very small areas on instrument keys - in spite of being tested in oil for months and pegasol & acetone solvents for yours, and best of all, has almost no tendency to 'creep'. Fantastic stuff! Its packaging is also superior - in a tube with a nozzle only 1/8" outside diameter. I insert a projecting teflon tube to reduce this further to 2 mm.
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Author: mw
Date: 2001-09-10 15:42
I would add that for amateurs ... get a roll of masking tape. I take the Tape & I cover the END of the Tenon (up to the point of indentation where the Cork ends) & I also place some on the "body side" where the Tenon meets the body of the Joint. Then, after the masking tape is in place ... I can sand the (adhesive-dried dried - firmly glued/cemented) Cork to my heart's content ... AND, with no risk of damage to the wood with my sanding.
YES, there are OTHER ways to help shield the wood & avoid "stray" sanding to the wood (use of special pegs, etc) ... but the masking tape prevents "over-doing" the sanding, and works well for amateurs.
Best of luck to all new CORKERs ! Speed comes with experience.
mw
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-09-11 14:53
The entire removal, cleaning, measuring thickness, selecting, measuring width, marking, cutting, chamfering end, rounding edges, glueing, cutting surplus, sanding to fit, and greasing takes about 10 minutes, with practice!
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Author: ron b
Date: 2001-09-12 06:27
After trying a couple of different brands of contact cement, I've settled for the one made by Super Glue. Yellow words 'Contact Cement' on black label. DAP is okay, but... Whichever kind you decide on, DO NOT try to thin it with Contact Cement Cleaner/Thinner! Instead, use M.E.K. The stuff sold as thinner by hardware stores will kill the adhesive quality of contact cement. The thinner/cleaner is, however, great for cleanup (only). Goof Off, *used sparingly*, is also pretty good for cleanup. Do not flood the area or you'll really have a mess.
Been there, done that :]
- ron b -
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Author: mw
Date: 2001-09-12 22:30
I guess I am alone as I like the Cork Cement sold by Ferree's. I tried the Barge brand & didn't like it as well. best, mw
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