 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: m1964
Date: 2026-07-07 04:58
Question for professional technicians: Is liquid shellac a good solution for reinforcing loose posts?
I've noticed that on older R13s, the posts that have springs are often slightly loose. The most common ones I encounter are:
Upper joint: the upper post for the throat G♯ key.
Lower joint: the lower post for the F/C key and the upper post for the B/F♯ ("banana") key.
Until recently, my approach was to partially unscrew the loose post, apply a very small amount of super glue to the threads and the underside of the post's flange, and then reinstall it while making sure the rod screw is perfectly centered in the opposing post.
Lately I've started using liquid shellac instead. It has the advantages of being non-toxic, odor-free, and reversible, unlike super glue.
I'm curious how professional repair technicians typically address this issue. Do you use shellac, superglue, or another method altogether?
Thanks
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Author: Fuzzy
Date: 2026-07-07 06:00
I was told to add a little grendilla dust into the bottom of the hole. I did it a couple of times with great success, as the upward pressure adds friction to the threads and keeps things tight...but I'm not sure what the pros today recommend.
Fuzzy
;^)>>>
Post Edited (2026-07-07 06:01)
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2026-07-07 11:45
Among all those options (and several others) I like epoxy, and preferably slow setting epoxy. The down side is that it takes a long time, so I don't always use that method. It is easily reversible with mild heat.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2026-07-07 18:10
A single drop of superglue on the end of the pillar thread is my first option for a loose pillar. Anything more involved if the pillar thread is stripped usually requires bushing. Stick shellac will work fairly well to secure pillars in stripped threads, but it can break down over time if there's a heavy needle spring mounted to that pillar which should ideally be biased to turn the pillar in a clockwise direction).
For pillars that are rotating too far out of alignment because of spring tension, packing out the internal thread with pumice powder or wood dust will give them the tension on the threads to hold them in the correct orientation, or shimming the underside of the pillar flange with a disc of paper or abrasive paper has often been done.
Another way to secure pillars that like to undo themselves (if the needle spring is forcing them anticlockwise) is to fit a locking screw with a notch cut out from the flanged base for around half the width of the locking screw head to fit into when it's screwed in.
A bit more involved would be soldering a metal strap to the pillar flange that sits above the joint surface (but tight against it) with a countersunk hole on the free end so a wood screw can be used to lock it in place. You'll see this on older Buffets before they fitted the figure of 8 baseplate to anchored pillars with the corresponding recess cut into the joint, or the double lobed ones B&H used on some pillars on their clarinets.
These pillars with the baseplate that sits flush with the joints have a smooth post that slots securely into a blind hole in the joint and the baseplate prevents rotation and the locking screw holds the lot in place - unlike the ill-fated E11F which had lobed push-fit pillars that all worked themselves loose as they didn't have a locking screw. Worst. Design. Ever.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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