 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: m1964
Date: 2026-02-19 20:58
Hello,
I am working on a Tosca in A. Taking lower joint sliver key (B/F#) out was difficult.
When removing the rod screw, the little projection that acts as a stop for the side Eb/Bb key, is in the way.
I finally managed to remove the key, but the the screw rod is still in the upper post and slightly sticking out.
I am not sure if I can put the key back with that screw sticking out from the post.
Should I remove the post for the 3-ring key?
Or, is there another way?
I do not like to bend the Eb/Bb support wire.
Thank you
***Forgot to attach pictures - there are in the second post.
Post Edited (2026-02-19 20:59)
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Author: m1964
Date: 2026-02-19 21:00
Attachment: IMG_0549.jpeg (1696k)
Attachment: IMG_0548.jpeg (1756k)
Pictures of the "problem".
BTW, I tried removing the same screw on a brand new Tosca in Bb and there was the same problem. I did not need to do anything on that instrument, just wanted to check.
Thank you
Post Edited (2026-02-19 21:04)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2026-02-20 15:39
It's a bloody stupid design and an absolute nightmare. I end up removing the upper RH ring key pillar to remove that rod screw - pop the spring out and then unscrew the pillar locking screw and remove the pillar and you'll have a clear run. Yes it's a faff, but you're not going to damage anything in the process.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2026-02-20 15:42)
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Author: m1964
Date: 2026-02-20 17:20
Chris,
THANKS!
Fully agree that it is a stupid design- to have the 3-ring spring and post removed to install another key. Can't understand why they could not place the wire 1mm above or below its current position.
Don't they get feedback from their dealers who repairs these instruments?
Thanks again
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Author: Philip Caron
Date: 2026-02-20 22:58
Thank you to Chris P. for his many valuable contributions to this group.
If anyone wants a rueful chuckle, copy the original question into Google's search box and read what their AI says.
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Author: &*b6IU
Date: 2026-02-21 01:07
you could try to slightly unscrew the post in which the rod is stuck to re-angle the rod to be able to take it out.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2026-02-21 01:32
You need to completely remove the cross B/F# key first to be able to do that, which you can't do as the rod screw is still in the end of the key barrel. Turning it anticlockwise with the key still in place will also risk damaging the pad, damaging the end of the key barrel or bending the screw.
Like Buffet in general, once they discover a bad design, they just carry on and run with it regardless. Other Buffet bad designs include nylon pins, that F#/C# spring, those stupid point screws with the plastic collar combined with the correspondingly deeply countersunk pillar heads, fitting adjustable thumbrest bases in the same place as the fixed ones, the LH F/C linkage adjusting screw, extra sharp tonehole crowns, Gore-tex pads, peel'n'stick synthetic key 'corks', wavy tenon slots, cases where the bells remain on the lower joint tenon, the black plastic spring clamp thing that holds the LH E/B lever down and stresses or breaks the nylon pin in transit, a million pro level clarinets in their lineup, ...
Feel free to add more.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2026-02-21 22:20)
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2026-02-22 10:09
>> you could try to slightly unscrew the post <<
>> You need to completely remove the cross B/F# key first to be able to do that <<
Not according to the attached photos which show the key off with the rod remaining there...
Even with the key still not completely removed, it might be possible to just wiggle everything with no damage to anything (e.g. notice that the pad doesn't drag over the tone hole, remove the spring from the cradle, etc.).
There is still a reason not to do it, but it's not a very good reason. Once a post is removed and/or turned to open it, it gradually increases its likelihood to not tighten as much when you tighten it... wood screws just aren't meant to constantly be taken in and out, but that's often a minuscule amount and in this case the reasons to do it far outweigh that small "issue". Also the threads on posts are usually such that they reduce the "issue" significantly.
Also the spring is tightening this post so it's one of the cases where it's less of an issue in the first place.
So it's basically a non-issue in this case. Plus you have to remove and re-tighten a wood screw for the upper post too...
>> Like Buffet in general, once they discover a bad design, they just carry on and run with it regardless. <<
Luckily they are mostly done with the very wavy tone holes and usually have the small channels or even some smooth tenons. Unfortunately it seems that they have a minimum... once one issue is improved they are ready to compensate with something else...
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2026-02-22 21:24
Given how puny the threads are on their 2mm diameter rod screws (I think they're M1.7x0.3 or something), risking bending them is the last thing anyone wants to do - or having to straighten them without them breaking off.
That's why the E13 to C12 has a much better design for the B/F# sliver key as it's mounted between two oboe point screws, which would be a far better solution for Toscas and others with that stupid bendy wire side Eb/Bb stopper thing in the way. And given Toscas and other 'boutique' Buffets also use some E13/C12 keywork parts (the sheet metal crows foot for one example), then there's no reason they can't use this exact same method to mount the sliver key.
Not that they ever will, because Buffet.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: m1964
Date: 2026-02-23 08:20
Update:
Followed Chris's recommendation and everything went fine.
Not sure if I did the right thing, but before re-installing the post, I put slight amount of bore oil on the post and the screw.
The design with two pointed screws would make this a non-issue, especially that they already have the hardware.
Hopefully, someone from Buffet is reading this thread...
The instrument probably was in storage for long time. Right now it plays slightly flat with the 65mm barrel. I am not sure if the tuning will change after I break it in, so ordered a 64mm Tosca barrel.
Again, thanks a lot for your help, Chris and Clarnibass.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2026-02-23 17:52
I don't oil pillar threads or holes when refitting them, but some pillar holes do tend to get oil in them - either bore oil that's soaked through the wood (even if some like to claim bore oil doesn't soak into the wood because of one YouTube video) or key oil that's run down the pillar.
In most cases, wood screws securing anchored pillars and thumbrests are often loose and usually need around a quarter turn to be snug, but don't overtorque them when doing them up and always use a screwdriver blade that fits the slot properly too so the heads don't get all chewed and mangled up.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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