 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-06 01:53
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The manner in which Buffet spring the F#/C# key is dreadful and it's never an easy spring to balance as it's too short, too light gauge and the tip digs into the wood. Add to it the dead weight of the LH F#/C# lever and you get too much rebound if the spring is too weak or the key feels sluggish if it has too much of a bend in it.
What's annoying now is they're springing the F#/C# key on their student model clarinets in the same stupid manner. The older Schreiber-built Buffets (B10 through to E12) sprung the F#/C# key with the needle spring in the pillar.
This is how I roll when it comes to dealing with that crappy F#/C# spring on Buffets (see attachments).
1 - Original spring slot.
2 - Original F#/C# spring removed from key.
3 - Widen the spring slot by the pillar lug.
4 - Drill a 0.9mm hole through the pillar for the new needle spring.
5 - Grind a hollow clearance for the spring on the pillar lug.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2025-08-06 03:21)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-06 01:55
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6 - File the pillar screw head flat.
7 - Cut the spring cradle in half.
8 - Cut through one side of the spring cradle.
9 - Open up the spring cradle to form a catch.
10 - File or grind the underside of the F#/C# key rod for clearance.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2025-08-06 03:22)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-06 01:56
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11 - F#/C# key fitted showing sufficient clearance for the new needle spring.
12 - F#/C# key fitted along with the new needle spring.
13 - Comparison between the original (bottom) and new (top) needle springs.
14 - Original (top) and new (bottom) needle spring lengths and gauges.
Bonus photo - Reinforce the nylon pins with a 0.9mm steel core while you're at it.
Congratulations! You've done the necessary upgrade that Buffet SHOULD be doing as standard on their clarinets. If you feel any binding up in use, check the underside of the key isn't fouling on the needle spring near the pillar end or the spring catch isn't fouling against the base of the spring slot.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2025-08-06 03:23)
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Author: Philip Caron
Date: 2025-08-06 16:37
Very nice, Chris, but I won't be attempting such a modification myself any time soon!
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Author: ebonite
Date: 2025-08-06 18:03
Anyone have an idea why they went with that design in the first place? Is it the narrow clearance under the rod?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-06 19:06
There's plenty of room for a proper length and gauge needle spring there if there's a slot milled into the body to provide clearance.
Loads of other makers have managed to do that with total success for decades (Leblanc, Selmer, Yamaha, B&H, Marigaux, Schreiber, Amati, Orsi, Malerne, Couesnon, Dolnet, etc.), only Buffet prefer to stick with a crap design regardless if it works or not and know people will just put up and shut up because they're Buffet and can do no wrong in the eyes of their fanbase.
While Howarth S1, S2 and S3 clarinets also have the F#C# key sprung in that manner, they used a longer and heavier gauge spring compared to Buffet and have the tip of it engage in a slot cut into the wide diameter flanged base of the pillar instead of digging into the side of the slot in the wood.
I've got an RC Prestige on my bench right now and it's a case of "Here we go AGAIN!" when it comes to respringing the F#/C# key and reinforcing the nylon pins. At least it's previously had the middle tenon refitted so it no longer wobbles about like they usually do, so that's always a bonus to not have to deal with that. But as usual, the adjustable thumbrest baseplate is in the wrong place and it has those annoying point screws with the plastic collar which will require some surgery to redo with proper (and properly fitted) point screws.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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