 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Larry S
Date: 2025-06-24 16:57
This lovely instrument dating to the 1940s was gifted to me a while ago and though its a fine vintage wooden instrument it has issues, notably the lowest note, which I think is leaking or the keywork needs regulating there.
When I first got it I could barely get a note out of it. My other clarinet, a cheap plastic made by Windsor, is a walk in the park in comparison. But this Pedler has something. With the right mouthpiece and reed it sings beautifully and is bloody loud!
Its just that bottom note letting the side down.
Mouthpiece by the way is a Babbit student plastic, a fantastic mpc compared to my Yamaha 4C. Totally different class. And I'm playing with a Rico Royal 2. I've been out of practise for many months and so am just re-building my embouchure. But it has potential.
https://youtube.com/shorts/8yZd6hwGFxw?si=dNPStuqe_NV_NGUF
Post Edited (2025-06-24 18:50)
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Author: Fuzzy
Date: 2025-06-24 18:19
From the "Help/Rules" section:
"How do I link text or insert links into my messages?
You can link urls by enclosing them in <>; however, you've got to get things perfect, with no spaces after the < and none before the >. I suggest that to link text to a url, you use this method:
[url=http://phorum.org]phorum.org[/url].
or, to simply link the url itself, you use
[url]http://phorum.org[/url]."
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Author: Larry S
Date: 2025-06-24 18:52
Thanks for the help, I edited my posts!
Post Edited (2025-06-24 18:52)
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Author: Fuzzy
Date: 2025-06-24 19:02
Attachment: 1111.jpg (100k)
Hi Larry S,
Glad it worked!
As per your air leak...others on the bboard are much more knowledgeable than I am, so it is wise to wait to hear from them.
I'd probably recommend having a repair person take a quick look at the instrument - just in case there are other less obvious leaks as well.
However, there's an adjustment screw on the linkage directly one pad upstream from your pad of concern. (There's a tiny screw in the arm above the pad..and a tiny piece of cork under the screw on the pad cup. See image 1111.jpg attached) If you have the proper size screw driver, you might try to very slightly adjust that screw to see if your issue goes away.
If you choose to adjust the screw - do so in very small increments - testing between each adjustment, and don't strip the screw head or lose the screw! (I'm also curious about the rod/pivot screw at the bottom - downstream from the pad you're working on - from the video, it appears that it might be a screw backing out...which can also cause seating problems.)
Fuzzy
;^)>>>
[edit - added reference to attached image]
Post Edited (2025-06-24 19:18)
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Author: Fuzzy
Date: 2025-06-24 19:17
Attachment: 2222.jpg (63k)
This attached image highlights the possible rod or pivot screw I mentioned earlier (can't quite see what it is)
Fuzzy
;^)>>>
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Author: Larry S
Date: 2025-06-24 22:01
Thanks Fuzzy. That screw sticking out the end is tight, and there's no spare play in the rod.
But the screw on the pad upstream, well it turns quite easily. I will test it out tomorrow.
But the pad downstream, on the other side, and which is closed by default, allows light into the instrument even when its closed (I used the torch on my phone to test that by shining the torch at it then looking up the tube)
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Author: Larry S
Date: 2025-06-25 05:10
Ah that image you highlighted, there's an oversized screw in there. The guy didnt have the original screw so he used what he could find. It sticks out a bit but is tight (it can be loosened easily) and there's no play in that rod. I think the issue is further upstream as it were.
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Author: Fuzzy
Date: 2025-06-25 06:10
Hi Larry_S,
It sounds like it would be a good idea just to have a tech do a once-over on it.
Pad seating is one of the more complicated things to master.
If you're seeing light coming through a closed tone hole, that could be the entire problem, but other leaks might show up too.
Fuzzy
;^)>>>
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Author: Larry S
Date: 2025-06-25 13:16
Unfortunately I don't have the money for a tech. Unemployed and skint
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Author: Fuzzy
Date: 2025-06-26 04:16
Hi Larry,
I understand.
Have you ever adjusted pads before? (If not, I'd strongly recommend saving up for a tech visit - many charge very little to adjust a pad or two, and if you go at it yourself - you might ruin your existing investment by ruining the clarinet.)
A tech would probably check for any obviously bent keys.
Next, they'd use a strip of 2-3mm wide cigarette paper (or cellophane) and close the pad on the tip of the material using the touchpiece - they'd probably place the material at the 12 o'clock position on the pad). Then, they would gently tug at the material and judge the resistance. Then, they would repeat the process at the 1 o'clock, 2 o'clock, etc. all the way around. Keeping track of where the resistance was too light.
Then, (depending on the type of adhesive used) they might carefully heat the pad cup up to make the glue in the cup melt.
Then, they would shift the pad as needed and gently close the pad by pressing the touchpiece. They might have to do this many, many times to get things "just right."
It takes a lot of patience and can really mess up an instrument if heat is applied too hot, not precisely, or to the wrong adhesive/shellac/glue. Even if one pad is placed properly without damaging the instrument, there's a good chance that it will throw regulation off for some of the other pads, resulting in new leaks elsewhere which might need addressed. So, the good techs are patient and get a knack for how to do it well. It would be worth calling around to see what folks in your area charge - a local high school band instructor might be able to provide you some direction...or possibly be able to provide the service for a small fee.
Fuzzy
;^)>>>
[edit: added verbiage about 12 o'clock on the pad]
Post Edited (2025-06-26 06:36)
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Author: Larry S
Date: 2025-06-26 16:48
Actually it seems the problem may be a simple matter of sanding down the pad of cork on the third key from the bottom (its in lieu of a crows foot)
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