The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-02-08 05:59
So...with some troublesome full fingered notes in the lower Clarion Register, at a suggestion here I took the register/speaker key off my R13 to clean out the register pipe and the rod that keeps that key in place basically disintegrated.
I guess golden eras Buffets have old parts.
I was able to stick a chopped off sewing pin in place of the rod and ordered a set of rods from Dawkes across the pond, plus I have a spare R-13 so my situation isn't urgent or dire, but does anyone have a good source for Buffet rods in the States?
TIA
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Author: RBlack
Date: 2025-02-08 06:29
A buffet dealer should be able to order parts directly. That’s what our repair shop (not in the US) does.
However especially considering it’s a vintage one, there’s no guarantee Buffet will give you something that works. Better to have a competent tech just make a new replacement one. I’ve done it a handful of times (including for a register key rod on a personal instrument that i dropped on the floor and vanished…)
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2025-02-08 10:57
Rod screws are almost always made for the specific key, even a case where one needs to be replaced on a new clarinet. It just makes more sense to make it same day then ordering, waiting who knows how long, for a rod that might not fit because it's an older model. Not only that but the hinge tube could be worn to the point that even a correct rod screw might be loose.
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-02-08 17:20
clarnibass wrote:
> Rod screws are almost always made for the specific key, even a
> case where one needs to be replaced on a new clarinet. It just
> makes more sense to make it same day then ordering, waiting who
> knows how long, for a rod that might not fit because it's an
> older model. Not only that but the hinge tube could be worn to
> the point that even a correct rod screw might be loose.
Maybe I'm asking the wrong question then.
Assuming the hinge tube isn't worn to the point of it not accepting a rod screw, where does one acquire the rod, the thread making die equipment, and what I presume is the tiniest of blades to create the slot in the opposite end of some rod to where the threads are, once the rod has been shortened to the appropriate length, so as to fit a tiny slotted screw driver into the rod to screw it into place?
I appreciate this may be a bit expensive for someone who can't allocate this cost across numerous repairs like a repair tech might, but there's satisfaction for me, even if at some degree of cost, in not having to wait on my tech to get around to this repair in a few weeks.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-02-08 17:41
If you need a replacement rod screw, then it's best to get a longer one and cut it down to size. Buffet's threads are probably still the same on older clarinets s they are on current ones, but the screws themselves are stainless steel so they'll be more durable than old ones made with carbon steel.
Check the diameters of the short rods screws as some may be 1.9mm and others may be 2.0mm.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: m1964
Date: 2025-02-08 19:01
SecondTry
"... I took the register/speaker key off my R13 to clean out the register pipe and the rod that keeps that key in place basically disintegrated.
I guess golden eras Buffets have old parts".
I have seen a few old Buffets (Golden Era and pre-R13) with screws in perfect condition.
I also saw a few with screws completely rusted because either of water damage (water got into the case and was never cleaned) or poor storage conditions.
Buffet (or any other maker) should not be blamed for rusted screws.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2025-02-08 20:14
>> Maybe I'm asking the wrong question then.<<
Maybe not the wrong question, it just wasn't clear. It sounded like you asking where to buy a ready made rod screw because you wrote "Buffet rods".
You could get a ready made Buffet rod screw, at least for some models, but even for Buffet dealers it's sometimes easier said than done...
>> Assuming the hinge tube isn't worn to the point of it not accepting a rod screw <<
I didn't mean it was necessarily that worn... worn enough to not accept a rod would be basically the hinge tube disintegrating... which is rare.
I meant to the point where a real Buffet rod screw would be loose... if you can get one. In that case you need a larger rod to make a new screw (or swage the hinge tube).
If you meant rod steel stock similar to what I assume you bought from Dawkes, then most musical instrument repair suppliers sell them. Votaw, Ferree's, JL Smith.
Most sell dies too, but...
Most of them have carbon steel dies which I don't recommend. For a few uses they are fine, but they don't last as long.
Better to get HSS dies. I think the ones from Votaw are HSS, but you can get these from tool suppliers like McMaster or MSC too.
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-02-08 22:23
m1964 wrote:
> Buffet (or any other maker) should not be blamed for rusted
> screws.
>
I concur. Moving parts and time are IMHO the culprits of wear and tear, not any particular manufacturer of clarinets.
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-02-08 22:26
Chris P wrote:
> If you need a replacement rod screw, then it's best to get a
> longer one and cut it down to size. Buffet's threads are
> probably still the same on older clarinets s they are on
> current ones, but the screws themselves are stainless steel so
> they'll be more durable than old ones made with carbon steel.
>
> Check the diameters of the short rods screws as some may be
> 1.9mm and others may be 2.0mm.
>
Thanks Chris, but your suggestion begs for me the question of once cut to length if the threads on the rod are tapped and/or the slot for the screwdriver on the other end is sliced, and care of what jeweler type tools. 
I think Clarnibass clued me into some vendors for such tools. 
Post Edited (2025-02-08 22:28)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-02-08 23:14
I use a motorised slot cutting machine to cut all rod screw slots the same width and depth (and recut/true up existing ones) - the saw blade itself is mounted on a shaft and is held in place by two thick HSS discs that determine the depth of the slot. It's run by a sewing machine motor and a V block ensures the rod screw will always line up regardless of the diameter (or slotting anything from 1.5mm up to 5mm or more).
The main part of it is the same as this bench chuck (which I also use for making rod screws and more besides), but with specific fittings added to it: http://peterworrell.co.uk/benchchuck.htm
The saw blade itself is a miniature circular saw, but you can use a piercing saw provided it's wide enough for most screwdriver blades and you don't wander off centre or cut the slot too deep.
https://www.onbuy.com/gb/p/25x050x8mm-hss-slitting-saw-64t~p108546415/?fbclid=IwY2xjawIUiblleHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHYdimELM4PnI8-_h-1bbB2O2zFFfhXKU48z0qrhCeBxpvaJpQwrqorPCig_aem_6hQkHecfNgN8V3j3tIIuKg
I usually cut the rod screw to the approximate length around up to 1.5mm longer than the finished one, then dome the head to the contour of the pillar head and cut the slot. Then if its still too long, it can be further filed down while keeping the domed shape until it fits the contour of the pillar. It's best to do that as leaving the rod screw too long will mean you can get caught on it or if it's too short and sunken into the pillar, dirt and dead skin can get caught in there and the screw hole in the pillar head can get enlarged if you use a screwdriver blade that's tapered (sideways) or too wide and that'll chew up the pillar and leave a sharp burr which will also make light work of an unwanted skin biopsy.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2025-02-09 01:17)
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