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 Re: Alternative bore oils
Author: Micke Isotalo 2017
Date:   2023-05-02 18:55

Just to avoid possible misunderstandings, pure linseed oil (whether food grade or not, but not just as one ingredient among others, as in paint) applied on uncoated wood will become completely absorbed - and not dry to a solid film on the surface.

The bore of a well played clarinet that hasn't been oiled for long, will probably absorb a thin layer of linseed oil in just a few minutes. After that, the bore will appear completely dry again - but not due to any solid, dry film on the surface.

If additional layers are applied, the dry surface (= fully absorbed) would take longer and longer to appear - as the wood gradually becomes more and more saturated.

If still adding a layer after the wood has become fully saturated (remaining wet, even for days and weeks), and if not wiped clean and the instrument isn't played and thus not swabbed either, then a solid film could form on the surface of the bore - due to the hardening of linseed oil with time (but probably not until at least several weeks, or longer).

However, and as I understand, why many clarinet manufacturers and repairers are favoring linseed oil, isn't to form a solid film on the surface of the bore but since it hardens also inside the wood. That is, after it has been fully absorbed - and thus that way protecting the wood from moisture for longer.

Those who for possible health issues prefer food grade oils, would probably not use a synthetically made copy of grenadilla oil, as Grenadoil seems to be. Despite that we are blowing and not inhaling while playing, the aroma of the oil of a recently oiled bore can be sensed in the mouth (even when the oil has been fully absorbed in the wood, with the surface appearing dry) - so perhaps there are some valid grounds for cautiousness in this regard?



Post Edited (2023-05-02 19:17)

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 Re: Alternative bore oils  new
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 Re: Alternative bore oils  new
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