 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Tankie1rtr
Date: 2022-09-14 17:04
Hi All.
I have just won a B&H Emperor on an auction and I am waiting for it to arrive next week, from the photographs I can see it has matching serial numbers, they are 824368 I have searched the internet and I cannot find any Serial Numbers / Production date listings. so can anybody please help and let me know the year / age on the Clari. this is my second Emperor my other is dated 1952. Thank you for your help.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2022-09-14 17:17
B&H serial numbers didn't go that high. By the end of production in the mid '80s, they were up in the 595000s.
If it's 324368, that would be 1970.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2022-09-14 17:18)
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Author: Tankie1rtr
Date: 2022-09-16 02:31
Attachment: fe3f9236-5af3-4c55-90d4-aefa01406e8c.jpg (1460k)
Hi Chris.
Thank you for your reply, It probably is a 3 then, I thought it was an 8 (See Photo) So i have another Emperor that you dated for me last time, that is 1952, am I correct in assuming that the 1952 model will be better than the 1970 model or will there not be much difference between them.
Thanks.
John.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2022-09-16 03:16
The 1970 one will have some different keywork pieces - mainly the longer C#/G# touch and 'nail file' LH F/C touch and possibly a long side Eb/Bb touchpiece (like German and Oehler system clarinets) instead of the usual golf club-style one. There are other subtle keywork and fittings changes between this one and your older one, only you'll be able to see the differences when you have both instruments side-by-side.
Acoustically I don't think there's much in it as tonehole positions and diameters may be the same on both unless they did change a few minor things between the early '50s and later models from the early '60s onwards.
One thing you may notice on the newer one is the width of the middle tenon cork which was down to them using the same width cutter as used on the other tenon cork slots which leaves no tenon shoulder, so the middle tenon on them can rock in the socket as there's no support and no amount of cork will cure it. You'd have to get the middle tenon ring at the tenon shoulder built up so it fits in the lower joint socket to give it stability so your long Bb doesn't keep going out of adjustment.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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