 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: JS
Date: 2016-08-31 19:51
I bought a silver plated "The Buescher" True-Tone (not a 730) clarinet with an adjustable barrel made around the 1920's. Needs an overhaul, but plating and components are in excellent shape. (Needs new pads, some minor cork work and some springs don't respond. Also may need to replace a few of the screws that have rusted) Received a quote for $270 to overhaul it. Questions: Is it worth the money to fix it and is this about normal for a repair price? Read that the Buescher models were considered professional models(or at least intermediate) when they came out and are more rare than some other brands. Hard to find info on metal clarinets, but love historic instruments. Any comments are greatly appreciated.
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2016-08-31 23:35
Overhaul cost sounds reasonable to me for the typical amount of work involved. Only you can decide if it's worth it to you.
Your Buescher clarinet is not one of those metal clarinets considered to be high-end or collectible, so perhaps you should think of it as a pleasant player with a bit of a historical touch, and make your decisions accordingly.
I've got several overhauled metal clarinets, I like them too, but honestly they hardly ever see the light of day.
Jim Lande (who posts here occasionally) is quite an authority on metal clarinets, he may be able to answer your questions.
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Author: JS
Date: 2016-09-01 05:00
Thanks for the comments. Do you know if you can typically buy a working silver clarinet that is considered to have "good" intonation for around $400-500 or would I have to go much higher to get one of these? If not I'll probably just have the Buescher repaired and let my teenage son have some fun with it as he's the clarinet player and for some reason is fascinated with the older silver ones. Have heard they have decent intonation when working, but I guess that depends on the player!
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Author: Jeroen
Date: 2016-09-01 11:11
Buescher True Tone saxes of that era are professional instruments with expeptional good build quality. Because of their old fashioned sound concept and ergonomics they are rather undervalued. However, I like them very much.
I would certainly let it restore and play it. Chances are that this is a (very) good clarinet. You could also try to sell it to me ;-)
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Author: Clarineteer
Date: 2016-09-01 14:57
Get yourself a Bettoney Silva Bet which are much better than Buescher in every way. I have had both brands. The Silva Bet will play in tune and also has an adjustable barrel. Look on Ebay where they constantly are to be found.
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Author: MichaelW
Date: 2016-09-01 23:02
Better than the 730 (mine has a functional adjustable barrel)?
Or how about the H.N. White Silver King? (Mine is an early model which are said to have some intonation issues; can't verify this for I normally play German system)
Post Edited (2016-09-01 23:09)
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Author: modernicus
Date: 2016-11-21 07:38
You guys must be in a different universe- yes, all Buescher metal clarinets were pro level from my understanding and are very collectible. All of them are marked True-Tone- it isn't a model in and of itself. I have one that sounds similar to the original poster. Mine has a tunable barrel and screw on bell, but no model number. I say it's a 730 anyway. I don't doubt Silva -Bets are probably better players, but all the pro and even intermediate metal clarinets have gained a lot of popularity with collectors and the values have gone up in the last 10+ years I have been looking for them. I think the internet has helped dispel a lot of myths about them. Even my Pan American Modern'e "poor man's Conn 524N" is surprisingly good when it comes to intonation and tone.
Post Edited (2016-11-21 20:28)
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Author: jim lande
Date: 2017-02-11 09:18
The price of a Buescher 730 series or 740 series was comparable to other pro metal clarinets sold in the early 1930s -- roughly $135 new. (About $2000 in today's dollars.) The 740 series were much less likely to be sold with adjustable barrels. The 740 series supposedly had undercut tone holes. (Having looked, I'm not exactly sure what that meant, but I seriously doubt a tech adjusted individual holes like Hans Moennig did with wooden buffets in that era.) The 730 had standard keywork. The 731 had a seventh ring. I forget what other models were offered. The 710 was an albert system. I might have some reference material if this is of interest.
I agree very much about the quality of the True Tone saxes. I only quit playing my True-tone tenor when I got a 1940s King Zephyr but the True Tone arguably is better for acoustic blues and old timey jazz.) I use my Buescher C soprano for straight ahead jazz. If you search this list, you probably can find posts from people who love the True-tone clarinets. But I personally have not enjoyed playing Buescher True tone clarinets. Except for one what was stenciled by Buescher and which obviously had been made by Pedler, based on keywork. These days my favorite metal clarinet is a Silva Bet but I also happily use a Conn 524N and a Penzel Muller Clari-Met. Other people like the Selmers, Pedlers and Silver Kings. (My Buffet is a lifeless player -- not as good as a modern student model.)
Regardless of which you use, it will take a while to get used to lipping notes up to or down to correct pitch. Most clarinets have some notes that need lipping and if you have a good ear, you may not even realize that you are lipping notes. But when you change from one vintage horn to another, you may notice that some notes are very wrong -- you may be automatically lipping them in the wrong direction -- each horn has its peculiarities.
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Author: Ransome Fan
Date: 2022-04-01 07:44
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I’m interested in the same subject as the original poster—especially regarding the repair of the adjustable barrel. In my efforts to study the subject I’ve seen frequent allusions to frozen barrels. I have seen no information regarding un-freezing the barrels. I know from previous experience that a mixture of acetone and hydraulic oil will out perform commercial penetrating oils. I plan to soak the barrel in that for a month to get maximum lubrication into the troublesome area. I’ve just ordered the horn and haven’t gotten it yet, but I’m thinking along the lines of make a stepped and threaded driver that I can insert from the bottom and poke through until it comes out the top. I plan to have the stepped down portion of the driver fit nicely into the stuck portion and the stepped up bit bear against the end of the stuck bit. I can thread in a slide hammer, and hopefully tap the piece out. However I haven’t even seen the horn yet, so I’m very much talking through my hat. I’d love to confer with someone who has successfully dismantled and repaired one of these.
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