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Re: Repadding salt cellar keys

Author: Chris P
Date: 2021-05-03 18:18

It depends how well the contact adhesive has bonded to the surface of the keys or tenon slots - sometimes it will peel clean off leaving littl in the way of a clean-up operation and other times it's stuck fast which is largely down to the preparation or if the adhesive reacts with the metal which can happen.

I've seen key corks peel clean off from silver plated keys and the glued surface on the key cork had turned black as had the silver plating which was due to the adhesive reacting with the plating. Also on some sax crooks where the lacquer had been removed and the crook cork peeled off leaving the bare brass looking pink or green.

Buffet tenon corks don't give up much of a fight and can usually be peeled off as soon as you lift up an edge, then the whole tenon cork peels off in one go.

To remove really stubborn key corks or adhesive that won't budge easily with gentle persuasion (eg. using your thumbnail), I will remove as much of the cork as possible, then either use the edge of my scraper more like a burnisher to lift, nudge or roll the adhesive off rather than simply and blindly scraping at it as that will mark the surface. Then using acetone will help remove every trace of adhesive it's in direct contact with, but only on metal or wood as acetone will harm ABS and similar resins (Reso-tone and Resonite) or plastic as well as some lacquers (nitrocellulose and similar).

For key felts, I soak them with acetone and leave them to sit and let the acetone do its job, then the felts will usually peel or even drop off when the adhesive has been dissolved, but some can still be more stubborn than others. Acetone will also remove epoxy, superglue and shellac from surfaces where it's safe to use solvents.

Ispropyl alcohol is safer than solvents on all materials. If in doubt, use isopropyl to degrease things. It will also clean up shellac residue.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

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