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Re: ATG Reed Finishing System

Author: TomS
Date: 2021-03-02 01:05

Well, finally I parted with 80 bucks and purchased the ATG system the other day ... I had one of the "tools" or sanding blocks, given to me years ago, but had only sketchy ideas on how to use it.

The information in the provided book and the well produced video make things clear ... but it's worth reinforcing some precautions that I will mention shortly.

I practiced on some old Traditional 3.5 reeds that were sitting on "The Green Mile" and they were granted a last minute pardon. These had been less than skillfully tweaked in the distant past and not stored in the best conditions. Still, I was able to get most to perform well (a couple were amazing) on my VD M15/13 series. I threw away scores of reeds a couple of weeks ago before getting the ATG system, but somehow kept these ... thankfully.

Next, I tried a new box of Reserve Evolution #3.0, which were originally purchased to work with my Reserve Evolution MP. I wanted to see if they would work with the M15. It's easier and you have better results if you start with fresh reeds, and these had been un-played and stored for several weeks in a 72% humidity plastic box. The Evolution reeds run a little stiff for the strength, but some were borderline too soft for the M15. I tested/adjusted 5 reeds in 30 minutes and all played well (again, a couple were "super reeds"), albeit a tiny bit soft (and I don't bite). As these break in, usually I have found that the resistance increases, so they may be OK, later. I was lucky in assessment of balance and made no errors in which side to adjust. Use your best French embouchure for testing, even if you play single lip.

The tip finishing procedure alone, does truly seem to improve most reeds ... sometimes, that is all you need. It's stupid simple.

I can see that I am on the road to having some reeds that I've only played in my dreams. A few that I adjusted over the last couple of days turned out as good or better than any I've ever played, since I first started clarinet in 1963.

A couple of things, IMHO to watch: (1) When you load the tool (or specialized sanding block) with abrasives, try to not fold or crease the abrasive paper. It should have a smooth radius of curvature around the edges of the tool. (2) Remember that the removal of reed material should be only on the stroke UP the vamp of the reed (Against The Grain). This is not clear on the videos, but mentioned in Tom's book. On the return stroke, either take most of the pressure off the tool or lift it off the reed. I lift it off ... (3) When removing reed material off the sides or ears, it's the angle of the tool in respect to the reed that does the job. Your hand/arm should move parallel to the reed. (4) Take it carefully, smoothly and with even pressure. Don't get too aggressive on the number of strokes, until you get a knack of what is going on ...

When you realize that you are just removing a few layers of reed molecules, and that makes all the difference, you wonder how machine made reeds can even be as good as they are.

The price of the tool, abrasives, glass working surface and information is well worth the price, as in two days I've gained about 30 good reeds ... an embarrassment of riches! Yeah, you could make your own stuff to do the job, and steal Tom's intellectual property, but I figure my time is worth at least $50/hour, so it's stupid to try to beat the system.

Just get it ... it works!

Tom

Post Edited (2021-03-02 07:33)

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ATG Reed Finishing System new

Hank Lehrer

2003-09-28 15:37