 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: mmatisoff
Date: 2021-02-02 02:34
I own a used Vito Reso-tone bass clarinet. I've taken it to two different repair techs. The first tech said he repaired the bent keys and leaking pads. Unfortunately, the poor guy didn't do it right, so I had to bring it back to him. He still didn't know how to fix bent keys and didn't see that some of the pad were leaking.
Tech two is a clarinet specialist. He plays clarinets and repairs them. He found several leaky pads and bent keys (I was there when he found them). He said he replaced a bank of bent keys, fixed all of the leaks, and adjusted the two register key timing.
The bass clarinet still has leaks (when I place a single piece of drying paper under the all the keys the pads are fine; however, several pad still leak. The Eb pad, second register key, and most of the trill keys (RH) and spatula keys (LH) still leak. The first register key is still problematic.
Bottom line. Is it possible for me to fix the leaky pads myself? If yes, where can I find instructions for doing so?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2021-02-02 03:15
Are the leaky pads the original pads or ones that were replaced?
If the pads don't have enough glue in behind them, then that will make it tricky to adjust them so they no longer leak.
Sounds like neither of them know what they're doing (the first one being the worst of the two) and you ought to find a competent and reputable repairer who gets things right the first time.
Just because someone happens to play clarinet and does their own kitchen table repairs doesn't mean they know one end of a screwdriver from the other.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2021-02-02 05:41
A question and a couple of thoughts.
Question: if you're checking with a feeler (the drying paper) and finding good contact between the pads and their seats, how do you know they're leaking?
Have you tested the keyed sections with a suction test to see how well they hold a vacuum?
In any case, when you test for contact with paper, most repairers I know use a thin strip (I use reel-to-reel tape leader, for which I have no other use these days) and they test at least four different places (3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock) around the circumference of each pad. With a large pad it might be worth checking more points. Even though it contacts firmly in one area of the pad, it may not (won't) if either the pad isn't level to the tone hole or the tone hole itself isn't level.
Did the repairers use a feeler (like your drying paper) or a leak light? Using a leak light in my experience can miss small openings - your angle of sight can make it hard to see some small places, and the room lighting can drown out a very thin rim of light under a large pad. I've never seen a repair tech turn off the room lights. I've tried it and found small leaks I completely missed with the lights on. Leak lights are good for finding major leaks - a first pass over the instrument. But IMO it's still important to do a more detailed check with a feeler after the obvious places are closed up.
The fact that a pad isn't allowing air to escape under it doesn't mean air can't get through a pad with a porous covering or a small tear. You won't see light, and you won't feel an opening with paper, but a leak is a leak.
The answer to your final question is that the problem with fixing the leaky pads yourself isn't just fixing the pads, it's finding the leaky ones if there are any. First you have to locate the leaks. And you have to be sure that any stuffiness, which you may be blaming on leaky pads, doesn't have some other cause.
If two techs (competent or not) have failed to do an acceptable job, you're best off, as Chris recommends, finding a better, perhaps more competent one.
Karl
Post Edited (2021-02-02 05:45)
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2021-02-02 09:52
>> Question: if you're checking with a feeler (the drying paper) and finding good contact between the pads and their seats, how do you know they're leaking? <<
It isn't exactly clear what he is doing...
mmatisoff, if you post where you are, someone might have a recommendation for a good repairer in your area.
As far as doing it yourself, my recommendation is the book The Complete Woodwind Repair Manual by Reg Throp.
You can probably find some stuff on google and YouTube too. Doing it well depends mostly on you and some practice. Even seeing it done badly might help you if you understand how it works and the result you aim for.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2021-02-02 10:03
Bass claris are tricky beasts, and far more susceptible to leakage problems than soprano claris. I check with a feeler at multiple points around the pad, using narrow strips of the very thin mylar film that is used for wrapping some types of confectionery. It's thin enough and stronger than paper shims. The function of linkages is vitally important as well. Even if a pad seals perfectly when you press it down, if the linkage that drives it is not in adjustment it will still leak. If you think you might have a porous pad try putting a small shim of clingwrap over it. If the problem goes away then treat that pad with suspicion. Check for worn linkages and loose or worn pivot screws, as these can affect how a pad seats.
Tony F.
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2021-02-02 18:22
I repair bass clarinets as part of my livelihood. I agree with all the comments above. Finding leaks on bass clarinets can be tricky. I can sometimes find the leak location by playing the upper register. When desperate, I take all of the keys off and use a magnehelic gage as I assemble it. Leaks can occur through the body, through the pads, through a chip in the tone hole. They can occur because there is too much play in the key. It can leak around the back of the aperture pad. It can be an adjustment issue. Multiple leaks confound the search process.
Play the upper register from the bottom. With a leak in the upper register you may be able to play the B and C etc. but as you play up it will become resistant. Don't compensate to make the notes sound. Continue up until the resistance disappears and the notes speak. This transition point is somewhere below the leak. This doesn't always work - especially if there are multiple leaks and/or adjustment problems.
Steve Ocone
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