 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: m1964
Date: 2020-12-06 06:30
Today, I had the thumb rest on my R13P moved up by about 12 mm.
When the tech removed the base of the thumb rest, there was a round notch drilled into the body (from the factory), just under the adjustment screw.
However, when I re-assembled the thumb rest (removed from the clarinet), the screw did not protrude beyond the base.
Does anyone know what the purpose of the indentation/notch under the thumb rest is?
Did Buffet use longer screw in the past, requiring extra space under the base of the thumb rest?
Thanks.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-12-06 14:18
They used to have a longer locking screw which needed that recess in the body.
With any kind of screw thread that's going to take some punishment (in that it's prone to being overtorqued or stressed in any way), it's best to have the longest possible length of thread to safeguard against the threads being stripped - both external and internal threads.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: m1964
Date: 2020-12-07 03:58
Chris P wrote:
> They used to have a longer locking screw which needed that
> recess in the body.
>
> With any kind of screw thread that's going to take some
> punishment (in that it's prone to being overtorqued or stressed
> in any way), it's best to have the longest possible length of
> thread to safeguard against the threads being stripped - both
> external and internal threads.
>
Hi Chris,
Thanks for your quick reply- that was my and tech's guess that Buffet used to have a longer screw.
The tech asked me if I wanted the holes filled- I said not for now (in case I did not like the position of the thumb rest).
However, would it make sense to leave the holes and the notch unfilled?
In case I want to sell the clarinet in the future, it would be easier to place the thumb rest back in original location.
Thanks
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-12-07 15:54
You can always fill the holes with hard black wax as a temporary measure as that can be removed should you want to put the baseplate back in its factory location. Or sell it with the relocated thumbrest as chances are that would be better if the new owner prefers the thumbrest to be set higher than the standard position.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: m1964
Date: 2020-12-08 04:30
Chris,
Is it the same black wax used for hair removal?
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Barbero-Microwavable-Stripless-Wax-Necessities/dp/B0786F222P/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=black+wax+hair+removal&qid=1607387273&sr=8-4
Thanks
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Author: m1964
Date: 2020-12-11 20:14
Looks like the same thing?
https://www.amazon.com/Brilliant-Yankee-Polish-Leather-Edges/dp/B015HMJOMU?th=1&psc=1
Thanks a lot
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-12-11 21:07
That's the stuff - a whole block of that will last you at least ten lifetimes.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: cigleris
Date: 2020-12-11 23:09
Chris once set does it stay that way? One wouldn’t want to be playing in a hot climate and have the wax begin to melt.
Peter Cigleris
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-12-11 23:22
It melts at a considerably high temperature, so it should be fine for tropical climates. Howarth have used it for decades on their instruments and they've ended up in all manner of places around the world.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: cigleris
Date: 2020-12-12 02:19
Great. I guess the a little heat will make it supple enough to form in a tone hole?
Peter Cigleris
Post Edited (2020-12-12 02:20)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-12-12 17:42
It has a higher temperature melting point compared to paraffin wax or beeswax so you'd need a considerably more heat to melt it and make sure it sticks to the insides of toneholes or filling in screw holes.
Apply it with a heated steel rod, let it cool down and then shape it either with a reamer or twist drill of the appropriate size. For surface holes, use the edge of an old reed to scrape it flush and it can be buffed to match the finish. If it's a high gloss finish you need if using it to fill holes on plastic instruments, use a damp cloth to bully it (parade boot fashion) into a mirror finish.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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