 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Bassclarinet29
Date: 2020-05-19 07:26
I am looking into starting some clarinet repair and overhaul as a hobby to keep myself interested and maybe make enough to offset the costs. I am starting my first overhaul with a B and H 2-20. The keys all seem to fit rather well together although a couple rods have linear play. I am looking into getting a tool for swedging—I have been noticing that they are quite expensive. I want to make sure that the tool has the proper tolerances so that I don’t damage the rod.
I have been looking at the Ferrees Swedging Tool with the collets, but as it looks I can only use that on a couple keys. I have also been thinking of some Swedging pliers multi hole variety as these might be able to be used on more keys.
I am looking to only get one tool for now and get another later. What would you recommend I get first and next?
Thanks in advance!
bassclarinetist@protonmail.com
Post Edited (2020-05-19 08:27)
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2020-05-19 18:02
I use the Ferrees tool for almost all my swedging, but I've become very skillful with it over the years. I once heard another repair tech disparage the tool. I guess he became skillful with pliers.
One problem you might encounter is that after swedging the rod doesn't go in smoothly and binds. his can be because you went too far, but frequently it is because the tube and/ or rod isn't perfectly straight. Then you may have to straighten the hinge tube or the rod, or both. Or enlarge the tube. You may discover that other tools need to be made or purchased along with the swedging tool to complete the job.
As usual, a job that seems simple at first can get more complicated as you go along.
Steve Ocone
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Author: Bassclarinet29
Date: 2020-05-19 20:21
Thanks Steven!
The one thing Im noticing is that the swedging tool might be only good for certain longer rods. Would this be correct, and would I eventually need a pair of swedging pliers? Which one would you recommend I purchase first?
bassclarinetist@protonmail.com
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2020-05-20 09:24
Most repairers eventually have many swedging tools because it depends on the key and what you want to do.
The Ferree's collet swedger is a good starting point. It's very good for swedging axial play, ok but not great for a little end play, I don't bother with it for extreme end play.
You can also only swedge the ends of hinge tubes with it, and only when there is enough to grip (nothing soldered near the very end, etc.).
If it is finished well (mine was good but I've heard it can vary) it leaves relatively little signs of swedging.
It comes with three collets that fit almost all keys.
Pliers can reach the middle, but you usually swedge the ends first (or only) anyway. They can reach the end, right behind where an arm might be soldered. They usually leave more visible signs of it, but that's just the way swedging is.
Pliers come in many types, hole diameters and jaw thickneses. You need the size that would fit the keys (diameter). The large multi-hole pliers are great to allow more force (swedging a lot can be pretty painful) but are more limited in reaching everywhere. Some situations require small pliers to get into tight areas, or thin jaws to more easily lengthen a particularly loose key.
I'd start with the Ferree's collet swedger and add other tools as you need them, unless you can already see that it wouldn't work for the keys that you want to sedge right now.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-05-20 11:40
As swaging can mark the keywork, you should also get a burnisher so any marks left by swaging can be burnished smooth, then polished out to make them as inconspicuous as possible. This is easier to do on silver plated and unplated keys than nickel plate due to silver and nickel silver being much softer than nickel.
And a barrel fraise/hinge tube shortener with the appropriate diameter pilot can then be used to true up the ends of key barrels that have become distorted through swaging so they won't cause uneven wear or damage the pillar faces or adjoining key barrels.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2020-05-20 17:27
I'm not at work now to check, but I think the collet tool can work on as little as 1/8" / 3mm at the end of the key. I usually only swedge the ends.
I'm more concerned about some keys than others. Swedging helps the pad land in the same place every time. If it doesn't, the impression in the pad doesn't always match the tone hole and leaks occur. On some pads, the spring is always forcing the pad to the side in one direction and key play is less important.
Swedging also decreases key noise. Again, this is of more concern on some keys than others.
One tricky area is the left hand levers – the type that have a pin that fits into a hole on the corresponding key. That hole doesn't move in a straight line and the angle of the pin changes as well. A tight lever can create binding as the hole moves sidewards or at the end of the key movement as the angle of the pin becomes extreme. Additionally, after tightening up the key, you may find that the pin is no longer perfectly centered and is always pushing against one side of the hole. Getting rid of noise on these keys can be a pain.
My advice is to not go for perfection, especially since wood and plastic change with the weather and if the keys are "perfect" one day they may bind on the next. Instead, just swedge the sloppy keys that you are able to work on reducing the play to a "reasonable" level.
Steve Ocone
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2020-05-20 21:52
>> And a barrel fraise/hinge tube shortener with the appropriate diameter pilot can then be used to true up the ends of key barrels that have become distorted through swaging so they won't cause uneven wear or damage the pillar faces or adjoining key barrels. <<
Very important! Swedging and having the key bind without a good way to fix that can be pretty terrible... both around the rod and the length of the hinge.
For the best fit it's common to always swedge a fraction too much and then remove a tiny amount. It also makes the end perpendicular to the hinge, it can be a bit wonky after (or before) swedging.
>> the left hand levers... My advice is to not go for perfection... <<
Perfection is actually impossible. If the hole was perfectly round and the pin was a perfect ball shape exactly the size of the hole (let's say a micron smaller), it would bind. Because of the locations of the hinges, the pin "moves" to the side inside the hole while the lever is operated. If it's "perfect" in one position, it will bind in the other. That is why the regular ball shape is not the best, it should be a sort of ellipse.
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