 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: marsheng
Date: 2020-05-13 14:55
I've just taken up the clarinet and bought a budget Ashton to start. After a lot of squeaking and squawking, I thought I had bought a dud. I then bought a 2nd hand Croton and found the same. It was me. A few months later, I'm making some pleasing sounds and really enjoy spending time with it.
In the mean time, being an engineer and fiddler I stripped the Corton and started to refurbish it. The corks was easy. With some searching, and, talking to a local repair man, closed cell neoprene seems a good option for new pads.
I got some 2 mm composite cork, 2 mm neoprene and made a cutter to cut the the parts. The first one I tried was a 12.5 neoprene disk with a 11 mm cork backing. I hot glued it in to the cup (Shellac on its way in the mean time) and the pad seems to fit really well and seal correctly. I cant test it till all are done but interested in other comments before I continue with the rest.
Youtube has a good clip on this.
How to Make Homemade Pads for Clarinet, Saxophone and Bassoon .
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2020-05-13 15:42
I'm pretty sure Bob Scott (rest in peace) used to use neoprene when overhauling clarinets. The pads sealed amazingly well and were perfectly silent........pretty much a perfect material. The only down side was that (at least his pads) would begin to "melt" if they got key oil on them. But I'm sure as an engineer, you'll never have runny excess when doing your regular oiling regimen.
.................Paul Aviles
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Author: Ken Lagace
Date: 2020-05-13 17:09
...And sealing the pads can be tricky.
Once a pad is in place, you have to check the four sides that they have equal pressure on the opening. Many years ago I used a very narrow piece of cigarette paper between the pad and opening to put some standard pressure on the pad with the narrow paper on one side, then do the same test on four sides of the pad. If one side has more tension than the other, the pad must be adjusted so that there is equal 'pull' pressure on all sides. Now I use a narrow strip of thin aluminum foil.
Just one leaking pad might make the clarinet unplayable.
And the clarinet should be tested with light finger pressure. A poor pad job might play with a steel grip on the keys, but that is not a good way to play the clarinet.
This may give a good idea how to replace a pad correctly;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO-HIZ2uxrU
Good luck!
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2020-05-13 18:14
I've experimented with pads that I made from a closed-cell dense foam material that I bought from a local art supplies store. It's available in 2, 3 and 5mm thickness and seals perfectly. The only real problem that I've found is that it doesn't like excessive heat. I float the pads onto a bed of shellac and allow them to settle into place while the shellac is still liquid. The pad cup can be reheated but it must be done carefully. I repadded a "C" clarinet in this way about 6-7 years ago intending to conduct an extended test of the material. It is still sealing and playing perfectly. I've tried using the foam on its own and backing it with 1.5mm cork. The cork-backed pads are more tolerant of heat. So far I haven't noticed any tendency to stickiness, but after this time the pads have a fairly deeply indented ring where they seat. It hasn't affected the way it plays and I expect to get years out of it yet. total Cost of material about $5. I've done a few of my Bb's since then and they also play well. Better than me, anyway. I only do this on my own instruments, I figure that it might be a step too far for anybody who is paying for a repad. I recently repadded an Imperial that had these pads with cork pads on the upper joint. I prefer the foam pads.
Tony F.
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2020-05-13 18:37
A soft material can seal without much leveling - but it gets a deep seat and affects the sound.
I haven't done my own research. For synthetic pads I use Valentino and Kraus.
Pete Valentino (sold the business to JL Smith) developed the Valentino pads. Ed Kraus, makes very good synthetic pads but only sells to professional repair businesses. Ed is an engineer as well as a clarinetist. When Ed was designing his own synthetic pads (with feedback from repair techs) he researched different materials and went with the same material as the Valentino pads. I'm sure he was considering longevity, resistance to solvents, etc.
I'm sure other materials can work but I repair professionally and need a very high level of confidence in the materials I use.
Steve Ocone
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Author: marsheng
Date: 2020-05-14 02:22
Attachment: Pad.JPG (11k)
Thanks for the replies. I have used 2 mm but the profession repair chap here uses 1 mm. That may help with the indentation issue.
My pad thickness is 2 mm so the neo sits nicely with the smaller diameter cork fitting into the cup.
With 1 mm, I guess I would need a 1 mm cork backing of same diameter and then 2 mm cork backing of smaller size.
The 2mm neo is more forgiving in the sealing.
I think I will press on with all the pads DIY and see what happens.
I did go to the Valentino pads website before I made my own but the range of options available put me off buying their products. So many sizes from .080 to .130 and ranges
I have emailed them now with my pad sizes to see what they recommend. I'll buy a set anyway in case mine don't work too well.
See attachment.
Post Edited (2020-05-14 02:24)
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2020-05-14 03:15
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYwECGSsBVU
A youtube demo on replacing and adjusting pads. It's a decent video.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2020-05-14 03:26
There is also Tom's workmanship video which is also really good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO-HIZ2uxrU
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-05-16 00:03
Clarinet pads are typically 3mm thick and around 2.5mm thick for Buffets.
I'd personally go for a surface layer of 0.5mm provided it isn't of an open cell structure and a 2.5mm thick backing of tech cork or similar for a positive feel. That will require the toneholes to be perfectly level and free from any imperfections.
And go for parallel-sided instead of stepped as you may not have the support around the edge of the pad if it's of a stepped design.
Leather and cork pads are fitted inside the pad cup, so go for a parallel-sided design which is also easier to make by laminating a sheet of neoprene with the backing material and then cutting the pads out to the diameters you require.
Pads that are soft and squishy will give the impression they're seating if you squeeze them down onto their toneholes to make them seal, but that's not the way you play woodwinds - you're only closing the keys and not having to force them closed.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: marsheng
Date: 2020-05-17 09:06
The original felt/bladder pads were 3 mm thick.
See here as to what was on the instrument.
https://www.windplus.net/supplies/NC-Line_-_White_Skin_Clarinet_Pads_by_Prestini.html
I looked at Valentino pads and they seem to be of the order of 3mm or so of foam.
http://www.jlsmithco.com/clarinet-pads/greenback-cork-120
This range was suggested by Stephen.
I like the idea of 0.5 or even 1mm foam with a backing pad but I cannot find anything thinner than 2 mm here in New Zealand.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2020-05-17 14:54
I found 1mm closed-cell foam used as packing material for shipping electronic parts.
Tony F.
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