Author: m1964
Date: 2020-01-04 00:46
Chris P wrote:
> I've sleeved an excessively loose middle tenon on a clarinet
> with plastic and that can be made to be an absolute perfect fit
> in the socket with no risk of binding due to the
> smoothness/waxiness of the plastic (2nd attachment).
>
> Another option is to metal sleeve the tenon or fit a metal
> socket liner (see 1st attachment), or both as is often done on
> oboes. But these are drastic measures.
>
> A less invasive method is to machine down the tenon rings, then
> build them up oversize with superglue and wood dust, then
> machine to the required diameter. This too is less likely to
> bind due to the superglue and if anything, the tenon ring at
> the shoulder should be longer than the end tenon ring (up to
> double the length) so there's more contact with the socket and
> therefore more stability. The tenon cork doesn't have to be as
> wide as it is on most clarinets. Some clarinets with a very
> thin tenon ring at the shoulder will be more likely to wobble
> as there's going to be some wear of the socket and less
> purchase with the tenon ring.
>
> A loose or wobbling tenon in its socket is also detrimental to
> the instrument as when it rocks, it will exert localised
> pressure at the front of the socket at the base which is right
> above the C/G tonehole and can cause the socket to crack right
> through to the tonehole which can be an expensive repair
> depending on the severity. A well fitting tenon won't rock
> about or cause pressure points within the socket.
>
Chris,
Absolutely beautiful work! As well as your F/C# spring modification!
Luckily, the middle tenon of my Bb is not that lose to take the drastic measures you described. It feels absolutely fine now, after I installed slightly thicker cork. To be honest, it probably would have been fine with factory cork. I use La Tromba synthetic grease which is very slippery so the tenon felt like it could come apart, not that it did.
Since I had time and a sheet of good quality cork, I changed it.
I have not seen the sticking left hand F/C# lever on my Buffets but I am sure you see a lot of them and I personally went "only" through 5 including the two current ones.
In any case, all these issues, as annoying as they are, are not a deal- breaker to me.
Although, I can see how they could be a deal breaker to someone who cannot find problems him/herself and does not have an easy access to a good technician.
If not too difficult, could you please post a picture of the sticking left F/C# lever?
I am not sure I understand the problem. Back in the day when the pins at the end of left hand levers were metal, I occasionally saw sticking levers due to the excess material placed over the pins to silence them. Not with current Buffets since no insulation is needed.
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