Author: clarnibass
Date: 2020-01-03 13:13
>> consider buying from an authorized dealer, and spare yourself these headaches. <<
Not sure he didn't buy from an authorized Buffet dealer...? They just mentioned it was bought online from another country.
>> These are normal setup issues that every Buffet dealer faces and most take care of as a matter of course. <<
I see many Buffet clarinets that are bought new from authorized dealers (from quite a few different countries too). I'd say statistically, most don't take care of those issues as a matter of course.
>> The tenon should absolutely be turned on a lathe... <<
>> Shave the tenon shoulder down by hand as machining it can remove far too much and cause it to wobble. <<
Not sure if Chris meant that as a DIY advice or in general. You could use either method. Sanding by hand can also remove too much. It's more about how you do it rather than the method itself. I almost always use a lathe, but wouldn't suggest someone who has never used a lathe to do that...
I disagree that it has to be done on a lathe.
Re the burr that was mentioned, this is not the usual situation. The most common problem is that the bottom shoulder (and occasionally, but far less often, the top) is just too large. I've seen clarinets where as much as 0.2mm was needed to remove. This can be done with sand paper but would just take very long (except to take forever using 600 grit). So...
>> a file definitely is more controllable than sandpaper.
The problem is to identify the high spot(s). <<
You could use a file, preferably a narrow one with a safe edge, to not file the bottom, only the tenon. You could also grind the teeth of an old file and glue sand paper to it, or use nail files which usually have two grits (the flexible ones, which you can cut to the tenon shoulder width).
It's entirely possible that it would be best to remove material from the entire circumference, not just a few high spots. It's also possible that it would seem like high spots, then once they are sanded, other areas are now high. The highest areas might prevent still-too-high areas from touching the socket.
You can lightly sand the entire circumference, just to get a similar texture all around. Then assemble the tenon by just pushing it, without turning (or at least the slightest bit of turning if it's very hard, say a millimeter or two). The areas that are touching will usually be shiny or change the surface.
You might get lucky. FWIW, I've seen almost no tenons that changed from binding to a good fit with a few swipes of fine (or even not so fine) sandpaper.
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