 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: oian
Date: 2019-08-25 01:45
I have an older LeBlanc Bass clarinet that has the floor peg holder screwed to the wood body by four fairly large wood screws. The threads are not stripped, and the screws can be tightened to hold it. The problem is that the screws constantly become loose. I don't foresee any reason that the mount will ever need to be removed. Epoxy might do the trick, but would this, probably irreversible solution be a good idea. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, John
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2019-08-25 02:02
Just have a tech re-drill two new holes and remount.
..............Paul Aviles
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Author: kdk
Date: 2019-08-25 04:53
You might try some Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 to try to hold the screws in the existing holes. The description says it's "designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools." It's supposed to cure in the absence of air between *metal* objects, but it might give you enough hold inside the threaded wood mounting hole to prevent the screws from backing out. It won't be as irreversible as epoxy or superglue type adhesives if you need to take the screws out for any reason.
I have an old LeBlanc low Eb bass (it was well-used when I bought it in 1973). I think I was having trouble getting the set screw on the lower-joint-mounted peg holder to hold the peg reliably - it would let the peg slip. So years ago my repairman removed the original holder, filled the mounting holes and soldered a much heavier-duty and more reliable peg mount on the back of the bell.
Karl
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2019-08-25 05:47
I would use epoxy for this. Despite what you might expect you can still unscrew the screws after gluing them in with epoxy as it does not like to stick to nickel plating. I think re-drilling the holes would be overkill and will certainly affect the resale value.
-Jdbassplayer
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Author: kdk
Date: 2019-08-25 07:05
jdbassplayer wrote:
> I think
> re-drilling the holes would be overkill and will certainly
> affect the resale value.
>
I won't argue about using epoxy - although I'd be worried that the hold might need more torque than the slots in the screw will survive when you try to back the screws out with a screwdriver. My concern may be misplaced.
But if oian's bass is as old as mine, resale value may be a moot issue.
Besides, I have to look really closely to find the old, filled in holes on mine.
Karl
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Author: hans
Date: 2019-08-25 17:49
Since "..threads are not stripped, and the screws can be tightened to hold it.." - If these are "pan" head screws, perhaps some lock washers might prevent the screws from loosening?
Hans
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-08-26 00:43
Have it soldered to the bell socket instead.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2019-08-26 16:05
It should be attached to the bell not the wood. Had the same problem with an old bass of mine and had a tech attach it to the bell years ago.
ESP eddiesclarinet.com
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2019-08-26 16:56
Yes !!! That's the way to go. Not all techs do "silver soldering" (much hotter process) though. You may have to look around.
.................Paul Aviles
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2019-08-27 16:28
I sometimes replace the screws with larger screws that I stock for this purpose. Drilling new holes won't effect the resale value if done well, but it is harder than it looks to do properly.
Steve Ocone
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-08-27 20:35
"Not all techs do "silver soldering" (much hotter process) though. You may have to look around."
It doesn't need to be silver soldered to the bell socket.
Silver soldering it to the socket is a bit extreme as the entire socket will need to be removed from the bell, all the fittings soldered to it removed, all traces of soft solder removed and the plating will most likely be damaged with the high temperature needed to silver solder and that too will probably cause the floor spike fitting to fall apart in the process.
Floor spike fittings are normally soft soldered to the socket and provided the fit between the socket and the baseplate is made good (in that it fits onto the socket with no gaps) as is all the necessary prep, it won't come adrift once soldered on. You may need the lower joint tenon sleeved or built up to make that a good fit in the bell socket so it won't rock around and put your low Eb out of action.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2019-08-27 20:54
>> It doesn't need to be silver soldered to the bell socket <<
Not only that, but it's pretty much never silver (hard) soldered. It can be soft silver soldered (i.e. tin/silver, aka "leadless"), which is about twice as strong as most regular soft solders but requires just a little more heat. Though the little extra heat required can cause other part to fall, etc. so something to consider when doing it.
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Author: oian
Date: 2019-08-28 12:02
I called the local repair shop and they recommend a fitting that is soldered onto the bell and have one that will fit my instrument. I think fiddling with a mount that screws onto the wood body is going to be a losing proposition in the long run. Thanks for all of the replies.
John
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-08-30 01:49
The remaining screw holes in the wood can then be filled in leaving hardly any trace they were there.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2019-08-30 01:49)
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