Author: Kalashnikirby
Date: 2018-10-22 09:40
What worked great for me was either the backing of a certain 3M double sided tape or cigarette paper. When the pad is set the first time, one may rely on checking it visually, but that alone won't suffice...
If the pad cup is large enough I put a piece of aluminium foil under the pad, so that it can be heated while being mounted (I use a 6mm tip with my hot air station). A pad cup heater would be extremely handy, too. Not sure if this would work with shellac, too.
It's also worth mentioning that the large white leather pads often bulge into the tonehole and in my case lost more of their actual height than usually (because the impression became incredibely deep after just 3-4 years, so riveted pads were a huge improvement.
dorjepismo said
>>Played it in Miami in 1973 - 1975. Owned it several years after, but didn't play it much. The thumb levers were the worst, but the low pinkie keys weren't great. Tried out a basset clarinet and a bass at S&S in May of last year, and the thumb keys were fine.<<
That'd explain it, because the Leblancs I tried recently were all fabulous instruments. I got my hands on an Alto, which seemed to have been produced in the late 90s like my bass, and the Opus b-flat which were both stellar and again pretty nice keywork.
Now that I recall, clarnibass you're kinda right! I recently overhauled a GDR Oscar Adler and it was almost as bad as an Uebel from that time, but the keywork must've been soldered too. My guess was that there weren't any better alloys or manufacturing processes available at that time.
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The Clarinet BBoard
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