 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: m1964
Date: 2018-07-09 17:44
Hi,
I recently bought an R13 off eBay and had it repadded.
When I received it I noted right away that the bell was difficult to remove and there was a new tenon cork on the lower joint that was finished unevenly (the cork was out of round slightly).
I brought it to the attention of the repairman and he said it could be binding tenon or bad cork.
He replaced the tenon corks but the bell still felt a little too stiff when I was removing it, and it was even more difficult to remove after I played the clarinet last night.
While examining the bell I noted uneven surface inside it where the tenon is fitting. There is also a small superficial crack (or posibly deep scratch) on the inside surface of the bell.
The tenon end, on the other hand, looks fine and has no obvious deformities or defects.
The repairman called me last night asking how it played and I told him abount the binding-he replied "No problem, play it a litle more and if it does not get better it means the wood is binding, not cork. I can shave the tenon a little bit".
After I spoke to him, later at night, I measured the edge of the tenon- 23.5mm.
The barrel deeper inside was only 23.3mm, which confirms wood binding.
I am not going to play it because I am afraid that I would not be able to remove the bell.
However, my question is: should he shave the tenon end or possibly inside the bell?
I am thinking inside the bell because there is not much thickness on the end of the tenon (my e12 has thicker edge there than this r13).
Thank a lot for your advice.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: clarnibass
Date: 2018-07-09 18:26
It is usually the wood binding and at least 95% of the time it is only at the tenon inner shoulder, which is why most of the time it's better to shave the tenon (only the problematic shoulder, so not to remove from the other one).
Check if it's coming out much easier once you remove it from the first shoulder, and the same when assembling, becoming hard (can feel more friction) only when you start sliding the bell over the inner shoulder. Do you feel any binding when it's just over the outer shoulder and cork?
Generally it's possible to know whether it's binding of the wood or too thick/hard cork. The exception is when it changes so much that it's completely smooth when it has enough time to dry. Usually after a couple of days without playing and in relatively dry conditions. Though even then it's almost always the wood, since there's rarely binding from the cork itself.
The tenon OD being 0.2mm larger than the socket is a huge difference, but not that rare.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2018-07-10 09:05
Have that repairman fix the wood not you. It's kinda hard to remove the wood evenly so a wood lathe is ideal. This is unless the cork is binding. If it's the cork you can try a wood nail file and rotate the clarinet when you are doing this. Or you can try and cut a piece of 220 sandpaper.
As for the crack I'd use superglue as a filler and to stop it from expanding. Sometimes you may hear a vibration in the bell when playing the low notes. This is the crack. The wood vibrating. Unusual for sure. But it can happen.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: m1964
Date: 2018-07-10 09:35
Bob Bernardo wrote:
> Have that repairman fix the wood not you. It's kinda hard to
> remove the wood evenly so a wood lathe is ideal. This is unless
> the cork is binding. If it's the cork you can try a wood nail
> file and rotate the clarinet when you are doing this. Or you
> can try and cut a piece of 220 sandpaper.
>
> As for the crack I'd use superglue as a filler and to stop it
> from expanding. Sometimes you may hear a vibration in the bell
> when playing the low notes. This is the crack. The wood
> vibrating. Unusual for sure. But it can happen.
>
Hi Bob,
I am going to give it back to him, he has the eqipment in his shop.
I am not sure my measurement of 0.2mm difference was correct, but, in any case, the problem needs to be fixed.
As for the crack, it is on the inside surface where the tenon goes in, about 1/4" long and very superficial. It cannot spread because the ring holds the edge. I would never notice it if I was not the binding that made me look with more attention.
Thanks
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2018-07-10 16:55
Wood will naturally go oval due to the effects of humidity, so it is possible it could be as much as 0.2mm wider than the socket when measured in one direction only. The socket is supported by a metal socket ring, so that too can close in when humidity levels rise, hence the 0.2mm difference between the socket and the tenon.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: m1964
Date: 2018-07-17 05:19
Chris P wrote:
> Wood will naturally go oval due to the effects of humidity, so
> it is possible it could be as much as 0.2mm wider than the
> socket when measured in one direction only. The socket is
> supported by a metal socket ring, so that too can close in when
> humidity levels rise, hence the 0.2mm difference between the
> socket and the tenon.
>
Ok, I got it back and now the bell comes off easily.
The tech said he mostly shaved/polished the inside of the bell but also checked the tenon on the lathe and shaved very little from just one spot on the bottom lip of the tenon. He also took care of stuffy C1# and somewhat stuffy low B played with index and ring fingers.
Thanks to every one who replied to my post.
Post Edited (2018-07-18 17:25)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
