 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Niclas.e.gustafsson
Date: 2017-10-22 17:57
Not really a question. But the peg holder, or what ever its called, on my Prestigue low c bass broke yesterday... the solder just came off.
Searched the forum but didnt find anything similar. And this is a huge forum.
Does this happen to people? Or did i do something wrong. I play standing up with a long peg most of the time. Have felt that the peg is wobbling quite a bit but with careful fingers its stable enough to perform on. Could the wobbling have an impact on why it broke? Should i buy another long peg that is somehow more stable?
Greatful for any replies. Feeling kind of miserable... my greatest love is ill!!!
Post Edited (2017-10-22 17:58)
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2017-10-22 18:07
I have a memory of re-soldering one of these one of these in the past, Actually I replaced it. The flange that connected it to the bell separated from the rest of the peg assembly. To repair it I would have had to remove the flange, remove the soft solder, re-braze a very large joint and re-solder the assembly to the bell. I expected I would loose a lot of plating and it would look bad (I don't do re-plating). I bought another peg assemble, took off the remaining flange and soldered the new piece on. Considering my labor costs, it was probably a less expensive repair.
A longer peg will have more leverage.
Steve Ocone
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2017-10-22 18:31
Did the entire assembly break off the bell or did one of the silver brazed parts break off?
Although the Buffet is possibly the best made bass right now (and that doesn't mean it's great), one terrible aspect is the key at the bottom back. They put the peg at an angle to avoid hitting it, which puts a lot more peeling force on the solder joint, plus being farther from the body. In spite of this it is still very rare that it breaks off.
The longer the peg, the more force it puts on it, compared with a parallel joint near the body (e.g. Selmer) which, as long as you stand more or less perpendicular, has barely any change in force to the joint.
A more solid (less wobbly) peg won't make any difference.
Post Edited (2017-10-22 18:49)
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Author: Niclas.e.gustafsson
Date: 2017-10-22 18:39
Is there a better form than regular soldering to attatch this?
Heard something about silver? Is that stronger?
Totally clueless here!
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2017-10-22 19:04
Silver brazing isn't really practical but I guess it's possible. It would unsolder all the close soft soldered parts like the key post and the socket and might "burn" the plating. That's why the contact area is so large for soft solder compared with the tiny silver brazed joints. I don't think I'd recommend doing this.
You could have it soft silver soldered which is usually 4%-6% silver with tin (I usually like the 4% type). This is still considered soft solder, often called leadless, requires somewhat hotter temp than lead solder and is about twice as strong. It might be better to remove all traces of lead solder even though the two can mix with no problem (I guess it could compromise the strength of the stronger solder if there's a layer of lead solder, but not sure). Maybe they already use this at the factory (some factories do). The photo looks like lead solder but it's not really possible to be sure.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2017-10-22 20:30
I've never tried it myself, but a bass player in a band I play with had a similar problem and when the tech replaced it, after he'd soldered the plate back on he drilled through the "wings" of the plate and the bell and put a couple of silver rivets through the plate and the bell wall. They polished down nicely and are almost invisible. They don't affect the tone.
Tony F.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-10-23 02:26
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/download.html/1,5630/image.jpg
Looks like it wasn't soldered on well to begin with, hence the dark grey colour which is oxide on the surface of the solder.
Have it all cleaned up down to bare metal if need be (on both the bracket and the solder patch on the bell) and have it resoldered. It's important the inside curve of the flange is a close fit onto the outer curve of the bell socket as possible instead of having gaps as it looks like it had which caused it to fail.
I'd be inclined to take it to a top notch specialist brass repairer as they do soldering all the time and will do a far better job of preparing and soldering it back on compared to a woodwind repairer who may not do anywhere near as much solder work (unless they happen to work on loads of saxes or flutes).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: saxlite
Date: 2017-10-23 04:23
Agree with Chris P's position on resoldering. But, any competent repairer should be able to do the job. Just another day with a Buffet.......
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Author: Niclas.e.gustafsson
Date: 2017-10-24 15:44
Thanks for all advice. The peg is now back in place.
I figured out how this happened i think. User error!
I allways put the peg on the bell, the bell on the lower joint and then the upper joint. While resting on the peg against the floor. Pushing down. Sooo stupid. Well. Thats something one only mess up once. Lesson learned.
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