Author: donald
Date: 2017-08-20 16:53
Hi there,
- gunk built up in toneholes will generally result in notes being a bit flat, rather than sharp, but may also result in you "tensing up" on a note to brighten the sound- which CAN push you sharp. So this is probably not the cause, but may contribute.
- the pad (top pad on lower joint) being set TOO HIGH will sharpen the clarion and altissimo register MORE than the low reg C, and you would probably notice/mention the G being sharp before the C. So this is probably not the cause.
- if a pad is leaking somewhere, it can have an intonation effect on one or more notes, this will tend to sharpen lower register notes but may not have a dramatic effect on the clarion (though it tends to make the tone a bit less clear). By "leak" here I'm suggesting a leak that is not enough to be noticeable (as you usually find these for other reasons before worrying about the tuning) but a tonehole (Eflat/bflat key? C#/G# key?) that is essentially doing its job, but not sealing with even pressure around the tonehole. Check if there is play in the upper joint ring keys- sideplay here can create a situation where the Eflat/Bflat pad (between 1st and 2nd fingers) doesn't seal EVERY TIME, which sharpens C more than D....
- The bore changing as the instruments ages/breaks in/blows out can cause the lower register to go sharp. In my experience it is more likely to sharpen these notes than flatten them. My first R13 had this issue after about 3 years use (and exposure to quite dramatic shifts in temperature and humidity), Francois Kloc was able to rebore the lower joint and HEY PRESTO the intonation returned back to normal (ie how it had been when I originally bought the instrument).
Of course, this is work that should only be done by someone who really knows what they are doing.... and despite all their fans there are stories of even *the most respected pros whose names I dare not mention* leaving instruments worse rather than better after all the reaming and drilling was done.
A good thing to try (as an initial temporary solution) would be to take the ring keys of the lower joint, and fill in the topside of the uppermost tonehole with a small amount of bluetack (I think you call it "ticky-tack"?). This can be easily removed so is a good way to test if it will help before a more permanent substance is used.
Clean the tonehole bore. Roll up a small amount of bluetack into a ball (maybe slightly bigger than the round bobble on a dressmaking pin) and then roll this into a worm shape. Stick this onto the uppermost hemishpere of the tonehole, then use a jewellers screwdriver to flatten it out (being careful none comes up over the tonehole rim, or into the undercut portion of the tonehole).
I know professional players who have clocked up 10+ years, playing hours a day, on clarinets fine tuned with bluetack- but most repair techs would advise only using this for "testing", and then replacing it with something more permanent. It could also be a temporary solution until you can get the bore checked.
dn
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The Clarinet BBoard
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