 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Bill
Date: 2001-06-03 20:37
I can see about 1.0 to 1.5 mm space between the right hand E/B touchpiece, and the crow's foot beneath it. The E/B key is too high and higher than the F/C key. When I depress either the right hand or left hand E/B touchpiece the E/B key moves a little by itself, before both keys start to close together.
How is this adjusted?
I know it should be fixed by a repair tech, but I'm interested in learning how repairs are done. I can live with this problem, until I need to send it off for additional work.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Fred
Date: 2001-06-03 21:53
I can't help you with the "how-to's", but I think you've picked about the most complex part of the clarinet to begin your education on. I wouldn't go anywhere near the bottom right hand keys without professional "tech insurance". If you choose to proceed, good luck. Let us know how it came out.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bill
Date: 2001-06-03 22:33
Actually I'm pretty far along in my education having recently learned about bridge key adjustment, just before that pinning cracks, and I'm a theoretical expert on padding techniques . When I see a problem with one of my horns, I like to study how to repair it. I don't actually do the repairs myself, but I want to know what's done to correct a problem. I was stumped by how to adjust the E/B key, and your comment clarifies why.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Peter Spriggs
Date: 2001-06-03 22:56
Presuming that the crowfoot is adjusted properly so that the B&C pads close at the same time, you need to add a little cork under the bottom end of the left B lever. This will take up the extra play that is so annoying.
Peter Spriggs
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bill
Date: 2001-06-03 23:19
Peter: Yes, the B&C pads do close at the same time. Thanks.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Fred
Date: 2001-06-04 01:13
Sorry about underestimating you, Bill. I tend to paint others with my own strengths and weaknesses, and you are obviously more adept than I at adjustment. But like I said . . . let us know how it turns out. Who knows? You might encourage one of us to branch out as well!!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-06-04 11:59
For the low keys I install all the corks etc the type and thickness I think is best, and then do almost all adjustments by minute bending in various locations to get the key geometry right. I have made or adapted special tools to facilitate this without causing damage. The process is far too complicated to cover in this medium as many of the adjustments are inter-related and involve many decisions along the way. It sure is the most complicated part of a clarinet to get right, apart from, in some models, articulated G#.
I avoid adjustments by adding more cork, sanding it away - often too much - and adding still more, etc. The thicker the cork, and the more laminations, the more likely the whole spongy mess will fall to bits, and the more likely the cork will compress with use and go out of adjustment. It is also usually unsightly. Note that there is no evidence of manufacturers doing this approach.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Don Berger
Date: 2001-06-04 13:43
Very well said, Gordon, yes, I've tussled with the E/B - F/C adjustments and have a happy feeling when they work well. Also YES, the art. C#/G# is even more difficult to solve, and any time I have the desire to work on my 3 FB's and the 3/4ths FB [TKS John B!], I "leave well-enough alone" . Don
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
