 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2017-07-17 04:50
I'm playing alto and clarinet for a production of Anything Goes in two weeks. So I've dug out my 1930s Conn alto to look through the book. An issue that has plagued me forever is predictably causing problems. The LH palm D key at the top of the sax is much too low for me to find or press reliably. It's lower than the Eb key next to it and, of course, farther around the side, so I regularly land on the Eb key and have to contort my hand position considerably to get to D. I don't know whose hand it was designed for. The key doesn't look distorted as if it has been bent - it's just ergonomically extremely ungraceful.
I've glued a thick hunk of cork onto the key surface with contact cement (after first trying it with blue-tac as the adhesive) and it raises the key level enough for me to reach it reliably. I'm afraid the cork piece will not hold under normal playing use.
(1) Does anyone know without actually seeing the instrument how safely the metal of this key can be bent to raise it to better position? I don't know what the keys are made of - hopefully the make and age of the sax may suggest a material to someone here. The lacquer is worn, so there's no cosmetic issue involved as long as the key doesn't break off.
(2) As an alternative to bending the key upward, what might be a better way to build it up so that it's a permanent fix? Are there products on the repair market that can be used for this?
Karl
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Author: Wes
Date: 2017-07-17 05:05
Try adding about one half inch piece of shrink tubing over the cork to hold it on after heating it to shrink it. The diameter of the shrink tubing may be about an inch or so.
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Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2017-07-17 05:23
Wes wrote:
> Try adding about one half inch piece of shrink tubing over the
> cork to hold it on after heating it to shrink it. The diameter
> of the shrink tubing may be about an inch or so.
I knew there had to be something! Thanks!
Karl
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Author: clarinetguy ★2017
Date: 2017-07-17 05:44
The shrink tubing sounds like a good idea. If for some reason that doesn't work, here's what I did: I put Runyon palm key risers on the palm keys, and built them up with Sugru. So far, so good!
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Author: Wes
Date: 2017-07-17 08:17
One can use a small soldering iron or a blow dryer to shrink the tubing, being careful not to heat anything else on that classic alto!
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2017-07-17 09:41
It is pretty common to build up sax palm keys. There are many methods (cork, epoxy putty, ready made ones, etc.). I like Sugru for this.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2017-07-17 12:08
I've also used Sugru to build up keys. It works very well indeed and can be removed when necessary.
Tony F.
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Author: Hank Lehrer
Date: 2017-07-17 14:49
Karl,
I had the same issue with the G#/Ab palm key on my Model 32 Selmer bass and made a cork riser. I shaped the cork to the right height and form, contact cemented it to the key, finished shaping it with an emery board, and then put clear nail polish over it so there was a very smooth surface.
It worked fine and is still holding perfectly. It was not possible to bent the key up since that would have thrown the venting off for the pad.
HRL
PS I've played this show several times and it is one of my favorites.
Post Edited (2017-07-17 14:51)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-07-17 15:18
I serviced a Buffet S1 alto last week and couldn't believe how low the high D key is - older Bueschers are the same.
I play Yamaha saxes and they have nice tall high D keys and I can tell if a player has changed from a Yamaha to a Selmer as they often have the palm keys either fitted with Runyon risers or built up the palm key touches with Suguru, cork or isopon.
On some occasions I've done surgery and lengthened the high D and F keys on Selmers by cutting the key arm and hard soldering in a piece of brass to bring them up to Yamaha heights for the players.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2017-07-17 18:41
I guess I shouldn't be, but I'm surprised and a little amazed that this is such a widespread problem on saxes and not unique to my Conn. Are the newer ones (over the past 20 years or so) any better ergonomically? I bought this one second-hand (obviously - it's older than I am) and have never shopped for a new one.
Karl
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-07-17 19:16
Most modern saxes are far more ergonomically designed compared to older saxes (although ergonomics is a very individual thing).
Most modern saxes have the offset toneholes and mechanism for the right hand main action to make the reach for the right hand much easier as well as the bell keys hinged in the centreline of the main body tube instead of being mounted off to the left (as you're playing), so the bell keys are much easier to use - the C# key having a much longer touchpiece arm so it doesn't feel as heavy as that on an old Conn or similar.
But it really depends on what you're used to and what you're comfortable playing - I let a Buescher player try my Yamaha and the first thing she had trouble with was the tall high D key as she was used to her old Buescher.
I like Selmer SBA and MkVI keywork over more recent Selmers, but I find the high D key too low on them. That's because I'm used to playing Yamaha saxes.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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