 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: SimpleSystemFan
Date: 2017-06-04 15:31
So, having done multiple searches, I'd like your kind input on mp adapters, if any of you have ever made a good one. I have 3 'best' clarinets- an Albert Buffet from 1929 (hard to play, finger-stretch tricky for me), an LL, mid-60's, and the 'new' one, a 1907 very early Boehm Buffet in rosewood, with an integrated barrel, which is shaping up to be the best for tone and intonation versus playability.
The mp/barrel combo which I like for all of these is the BC Albert mp on the Albert BC barrel.
Problem: the Albert BC mp is by far the best on the Boehm BC clarinet, but the tenon is too slim.
I don't want to re-cork it or it won't work with the other set-up. Has anyone ever made a tenon socket 'filler' to suit a slimmer-line mp tenon?
Suggestions?
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Author: jthole
Date: 2017-06-04 15:52
Isn't this basically the same as using cigarette paper, but then more permanent? The only thing I do not know about Teflon is whether you risk putting too much stress on the tenon with temperature changes of the wood and cork.
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Author: SimpleSystemFan
Date: 2017-06-04 16:36
Hi-
I probably wasn't too clear- I want to insert a (potentially permanent) sleeve effect thing into the socket of the clarinet, not wrap more stuff round the mp tenon; that way, the mp can be multi-instrumental...........so cig paper would not work...but thanks- any ideas gratefully recieved. I have a few, but someone might laterally-think something amazing-
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Author: kdk
Date: 2017-06-04 17:13
Are you looking for a DIY solution, or are you willing to bring it to a skilled tech? It's relatively routine for a good repair person to line barrel bores with hard rubber sleeves. This should be the same kind of work.
Or, if you want a DIY solution, you might be able to cement a cork strip of the needed thickness around the inside of the socket. Instead of cork some kind of sheet goods, maybe polyethylene or PVC or nylon, cut into a strip the width of the socket depth, could serve the same purpose and maybe provide a smoother, less resistant assembly with the mouthpiece cork. Lots of these materials come up in a Google search, but the thickness would be critical. You probably don't need it to take up very much space.
Karl
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Author: modernicus
Date: 2017-06-06 06:20
I wouldn't risk damaging the integrated barrel clarinet with something like metal or other permanent alteration, but perhaps some other reversible material may work- though I think I was steered away from a cork-on-cork joint here before... I don't consider 1907 to be "very" early for a BC Boehm (I have a few, with a 1906 being the newest by quite a bit), but it still sounds pretty special. May be best to find another mpc. for a dedicated setup? Is it one of the wooden BC mpcs? Even those can be found fairly easily.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2017-06-06 09:32
The question is how much of a difference is there and how non-permanent do you want it to be?
If it needs to be (e.g.) 0.1mm thick (0.2mm difference in diameter) then maybe just use some teflon tape. Though a sleeve could even be made of metal sheet in that thickness. Or it needs to be made thicker, glued, then machines once in place (regardless of material).
It's possible to make a plastic or wood sleeve, epoxied in place, but this is the most permanent. A metal sleeve can be made just as permanent but also more easily removable since the metal can be heated to ruin the glue (with electric heater or air gun). Epoxy would need 150 degrees but maybe even use lower temperature heat melting glue or shellac. These can then be removed by lighter fluid and alcohol respectively.
It's just the mouthpiece socket so no change will have a real affect other than for a collector/museum, which is probably irrelevant in this case. At worst case even the most permanent modification can be reversed by machining the sleeve off.
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Author: Katrina
Date: 2017-06-06 15:03
I've been having the same frustration with my A clarinet. It's barrel receptor for the mouthpiece is much looser than on my Bb. Funny how my memory from college (25+ years ago) is different in that I don't remember any wobble at all.
The wobble is very annoying when playing my A but I don't want to change the cork on the mp because it fits beautifully into my Bb (which I play a lot more). I don't want to use a temporary situation because there have been a few occasions where I will be playing both and have a fast change.
Still hoping for a simple, non-permanent solution...
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Author: modernicus
Date: 2017-06-06 15:28
I'd rather see them open up the socket on the other barrel than damage the integrated barrel clarinet unnecessarily. I collect old clarinets and have seen much ill-advised work/modifications. A 1907 rosewood Buffet would definitely be of interest to me, so I wouldn't say that factor is irrelevant.
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Author: SimpleSystemFan
Date: 2017-06-06 22:19
Thank you all for your kind helpfulness. So, I'm definately a DIY-er. My nearest technician is one hour away, hard to get hold of, won't do postal, and is pretty limited in experience and ability...
I agree that a cork sleeve not an option. I have some 0.4 mm cork, but much too fragile, and too much friction.
So, I tried silver foil. I was just doing the repair equivalent of noodling. I knew it wouldn't work, and it didn't.
Then, I dug out a very thin sheet of copper left over from silversmithing. Don't know the gauge, but stiff paper thickness, and cut-able with scissors. It was crumpled, so flattened it with a burnishing tool on a tile, and cut a strip to overlap by approx 1mm, and slightly proud of the socket top. Then I fitted it in, checked that the mp fitted snugly- yes, perfect- and turned over the proud edge with the burnishing tool to form a smooth, nearly flush lip. This also fixed the top overlap edge of the sleeve together sufficiently that it holds it's shape well when the mp is removed- it clings to the mp, and comes out, but is easy to remove and put back in the socket. No glue. (Glue has it's place- but I try and avoid it; though it's useful for building up a really damaged tone hole rim..there is always glue-buster to remove it if needed. Also, if you have a wobbling sleeve for a screw-rod, and no appropriate fixing tools, a tiny build-up of glue on the end of the sleeve can secure it in more tightly to the post- let it dry completely and file any residue from the hole edge before putting the key back in. No more transverse key wobble, and easily removed-)
Result! and no damage to the barrel.
Katrina, if you need to do quick changes, I'd suggest securing the lip in place with a small amount of contact adhesive. This is secure, but non-invasive and easily removed with acetone. If you can find a choice of small cheap pieces of metal in different gauges (this very thin stuff could be classed as foil, or leaf), you could experiment- or check first what you need with weights of paper or card then translate into gauge or mm..(good luck). Or just see what is lying around.
I can also now use a thicker mp if a better one for the instrument comes along ( I have a wideish Yamaha 4c, but it's rubbish).
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Author: modernicus
Date: 2017-06-10 23:19
Sounds like you found a good reversible solution-DIY on and keep playing!
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Author: gkern
Date: 2017-06-11 02:44
Several years ago, I bought a barrel from a professional who had put a bit of scotch tape on the inside to reduce the size somewhat, Was easy to remove as it fit fine without on my clarinet.
Gary K
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Author: Dan Shusta
Date: 2017-06-11 09:09
How about the use of "O" rings? This came to my mind when I remembered that Brad Behn uses this insertion technique for his new mouthpieces.
Perhaps they could be stabilized through a slight, circular removal of some existing cork, then "slid off" when used on your other clarinets.
Just an idea...
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Author: SimpleSystemFan
Date: 2017-06-11 15:17
'O' rings nice idea for future. Elegant. Anyone know a good UK source for different width and diameter rings where measurements are specified? I have a not-so-good clarinet the plays sharp (!!!!!) and a 150 yr old really good simple system flute where I could use them maybe to bring it to 440. The head joint is permanently pulled out (no tuning slide- hey- it has flat-flap brass keys and integral block-posts...) and I would like to fill the gap for air-stream reasons.
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