 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: SimpleSystemFan
Date: 2017-04-02 18:17
Hi- firstly, thank you all for your posts; I have been using the board for some time.
I play simple system flute, and was taught to re-pad and cork tenons by good people on the Chiff and Fipple forum. Now I'm obsessed by clarinets.
I have a Buffet Crampon 1932 Bb which has the best tone and projection of all my clarinets. It is amazing. I love it, despite the stretch needed to cover the tone holes. I have just re-corked and padded it, using standard premium tan leather pads (the bottom toneholes will take a straight-shouldered pad, (unlike my Hawkes and son C and Bb, where I have to re-cover the original elastic ball pads).
I am having awful problems with the E/B open lever key. It won't sound in clarion, though further up the keys are fine. Bedplace is clear and sharp, cup seems level- the original pad was unusable, but round-shouldered and very thick. I have tried shimming a standard up with card; no dice.
No movement on the rods, no body leaks further up, arrrgh. I am looking for bassoon pads with a softer felting -does anybody know of a source? I live in the UK but am happy to order from abroad.
What pads do you all use for older Alberts? I'd make one, but finding the right wool and felting it has been a problem. The Hawkes interior stuffing was far coarser than wool- some natural fibre, but no idea what it was..
Help!
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-04-02 18:24
Is it being held open by the linkage to the F/C key (the 'Improved C#' mechanism)?
Any decent quality leather pads should be suitable.
Also check you're not uncovering any of the toneholes when playing the B - you might not notice it, but you could be lifting off one of them if you're finding the stretch a bit much.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: SimpleSystemFan
Date: 2017-04-02 20:03
It's the simplest of Alberts- there are NO cross-linkages. Weird, but easy-
I dealt with the stretch by using Milliput to make a few key extensions. It works.
Since posting, I have had more of the lower keys off again- the F/C has a very strong leaf spring, and works fine in itself, but was causing the leak with a badly re-rimmed bedplace and an over-tilted shim on the pad.
Sorted.
I would still dearly like to know what pads you all use for Alberts....
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Author: dubrosa22
Date: 2017-04-03 03:36
I've used Instrument Clinic white leather pads for clarinet in my Albert/Simple System. They seem to match the thickness and density of the old ones I've removed. I've also used the same pads in French-pointed style cups in Simple System flutes. I haven't figured the best solution for saltspoon style cups yet.
http://instrumentclinicusa.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_2
V
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2017-04-03 04:36
I've used leather pads from Instrument Clinic and also from Music Medic in Albert system clarinets. I've used the same pads in saltspoon cups, in the thinnest size I can get. I fix a small disc of card to the back of the pad. Mostly this is just to fill some of the volume in the cup, but it also adds some stiffening to the pad. I use punchings from an ordinary squeeze-type leather hole punch, using the most suitable size from the 6 available on the punch. Oboe pads work in saltspoon cups as well.
Tony F.
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Author: dubrosa22
Date: 2017-04-03 04:54
Thanks Tony, I will try your methods soon. I have a Metzler 8-key simple system flute to repad with saltspoon keys and another Monzani flute with 'salties'.
V
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Author: SimpleSystemFan
Date: 2017-04-03 13:41
Thank you, V, for the link.
It is extra-thick softer pads that are difficult.
Metzler and saltspoons- For building up inside a domed cup I use playing card layers, in successively smaller circles, glued to the back of a standard leather pad, sometimes slightly larger than the cup size if needed for an awkward mount, moistened and pressed down hard for a few seconds on floating-in, so it isn't too thick for good clearance.
If the key is short and wraps round the body, I use semi-circles of card to shim it up towards the cup tip- usually just one; this seems to give a better leveling on a dodgy old flute.
I have a 150 year-old concert rosewood flute in 'F', made to play in pitch by pulling out head-joint, (tuning adjusted by the maker who sold me my 'D' flute).
It has flat-flap brass keys hinged into wooden mounts with a simple pin.
I used to carefully thin a normal clarinet pad, disassembling it and razor-blading the felt. Could never get a properly level surface, which is critical.
Now I use thick or thinner circles of leather, as it comes, which is what they used originally. It works as well, and for as long, as a fancy modern stuffed pad....
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