 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Matt74
Date: 2016-11-07 06:32
For those of you who padding regularly, what kind of pads (brands/felt type/thickness) do you use for which horns?
I've done some where I seemed to have the right pads and they were easy, and others where, even though the pads looked right, they just did not want to float and seal. As far as I can figure, the thickness seems like the most important thing, but there are other factors; like how good the tone holes are and the shape of the key cups.
- Matthew Simington
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2016-11-07 09:42
Depends on the brand of horns. Buffets use one size Selmers another, I tend to like cork pads on the upper registers. A good source and a wealth of info would be to talk with "http://www.jlsmithco.com/clarinet-pads" one of the techs there. I really like the assortment of pads from thin to thick and every size available. They sell all sorts of tools to help seal the pads correctly, replacement springs, pliers to pop out the broken springs, polishing kits, you name it they have it. You'd have good luck with the Valentino pads, get the better ones though. Based on what pads you buy, ask what glue to use. Most likely get a stick of shellac.
There are other companies of course, Prestini is one of them, but his pads are pretty bad.
As for sealing the pads it is tricky. Takes time, having the right thickness pad is a must. I use cigarette paper cut into thin strips and then check as you hold down the keys check to make sure the cigarette paper is making contact completely around the pads. Hope that makes sense. So don't just check one part of the cup, check several areas of the cup where the pads sit. You have have to reheat the cup several times to get that even seal, completely around the whole cup and you may have to change out the pad a few times and replace them. Some pads just won't work and seal correctly. Some of the worst pads are the Buffets. I've tossed out 6 to 10 of them before finding one that seals, therefore I won't use them. Also ask about clamps. These fun toys will press down on the pads that stay open, such as the low E, and F, keys, lower joint, helping to form a seal for you. They are pretty inexpensive. I often just use rubber bands, but the clamps surely work better.
Feel free in emailing me. This is really hard to learn. savagesax@aol.com I can send some pics to help you.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
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Author: Matt74
Date: 2016-11-07 10:57
I used Prestini double skin pressed standard and pro quality, thin and medium. Both worked well for me. I did an R-13, a Vito, and a Selmer CL601. They all seal and play well, hold suction, and were easy to level. By contrast, I didn't have much luck with their medium woven pads, I can't get most of them to level at all.
I used cork on the upper joint of the Buffet.
I think I used Music Medic pads at repair school on a student horn.
I used Valentino Greenbacks on a student Yamaha and found them a little hard to level. They seemed very hard. I don't like the way they feel when you are playing. I haven't tried their better quality ones.
I got a B21 assortment from Ferree's (medium regular double skin pressed), because it was their "most popular" but have had a hard time with them. Mostly, they seem too thick. Most of the horns want 2.7 and 3 mm, but they are 3 and 3.4mm. They did fit a Bundy I'm working on, but the tone holes must be totally out of whack. After a lot of work I got the top joint to seal. The bottom joint absolutely will not hold air, even when the pads are level by my feeler (I checked all the way around with a 0.001" feeler). I tried "setting them" overnight. I tried ironing them. Even when you press real hard, they won't seal. I was wondering if the pads themselves were allowing air through. I don't have tone hole leveling tools.
I didn't want to spend $3 a pad, but I've wasted A LOT of time on this Bundy.
- Matthew Simington
Post Edited (2016-11-07 11:00)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-11-07 18:54
That fits with the Prestini pads I removed from a Yamaha tenor recently!
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Matt74
Date: 2016-11-08 01:45
Any suggestions for what I should use on a horn with bad tone holes?
- Matthew Simington
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2016-11-08 02:40
The pads I use depend on the instrument. I've mostly switch over to synthetic. If you don't work on the tone holes, you may have to go with a softer pad. I usually use a .110 " pad thickness. If it needs to be thicker I can add more glue. I carry several brands in many sizes. Sometimes I need to do a bit of search for a pad that is suitable.
Steve Ocone
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-11-08 02:48
"Any suggestions for what I should use on a horn with bad tone holes?"
Repair the damaged toneholes and then repad with high quality cork and leather pads. You can't 'cure' bad toneholes with pads - the success of the padding is only as good as your toneholes are, so get them dealt with and made good before seating any pads onto them.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-11-08 04:18
No - don't sharpen them too much as they'll just punch the pads through like they do on Buffet clarinets. Just because Buffet have razor sharp toneholes doesn't mean they're good and that's the example to follow - they're the worst kind of toneholes to have as pads simply won't take that kind of abuse.
Get your toneholes level and with a pad friendly crown to them - neither razor sharp nor a mile wide. Make the crowns with a flat rim of around 0.2mm wide. A thin crown won't make them seal any better than a crown made with a slight flat.
It won't alter the tone or compromise playability or be more liable to leaking if the crown is flat on top provided there aren't any chips or vessels running across it. Fill them in, level the tonehole, ream the inside edge just enough to tidy things up then lightly dress them again to remove any burrs. Then they're good to go.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2016-11-08 04:41
Chris, I laughed at the translation of Prestini!
The tone holes have to be in perfect shape, without rounded or chipped edges. This repair is not easily done. In some cases you have to rebuild the tone hole. This is far beyond my level of repair, so I can't help you. I've seen the pros do it a few times. You need drill presses to do it right, special drill bits, then probably undercutting tools to tune the instruments. Sometimes it's easier to buy a whole new upper or lower joint.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
Post Edited (2016-11-12 20:23)
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2016-11-08 18:27
Ferree's B32 tan leather "bass clarinet" pads (come in all sizes down to about 7mm, so work fine on soprano clarinets too).
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Author: Plaisance
Date: 2016-11-08 18:43
thickness is imperative otherwise you will be over-gluing to elevate the pad to sit right if it's too thin.
for yamaha, they have a spec sheet on the diameter and thickness for their pads and the cork size for the register key.
Yamaha YCL-2xx~8xx :
low e/b is 17mm/3.2mm
Ab is 15.5/3.2
F# is 9.5mm/3.0mm
9 common pads are 10mm/3mm
registry key cork 8.7mm/2.7mm
while you can lift a thin pad with glue, you may have issues with a pad that's too thick.
look for the pad spec sheet on the models you want to fix then buy them individually
pads i find for my needs at http://www.jlsmithco.com/
good luck!
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-11-08 20:44
Cork pads can be made to any thickness you want.
Most clarinets use 3mm thick pads, but Buffets use much thinner ones - around 2.5mm. But that's if you insist in using those dreadful skin pads. There are much better choices of pads out there that will seal and last much longer than poxy skin pads.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Clarineteer
Date: 2016-11-12 20:14
Chris,
If you use high quality cork and leather pads using the tone hole reamers properly will improve the seal and prolong pad life.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-11-12 20:49
I do tonehole prep work on all overhauls to be sure cork pads will seat against them. I only use the spherical reamers to open up the inside edge of the crown after filling in chips and after levelling but don't make it razor sharp like Buffets so they're not going to damage the pads. After reaming, I lightly go over them with the tonehole topper to remove any burrs the reamers tend to kick up.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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