 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Napat Techa.
Date: 2016-05-25 06:00
I have the old yamaha 4c clarinet mouthpiece [Coming with yamaha 250] and want to improve tonal quality of that mouthpiece.
So , I want to have some information about how to refacing and
How to adjust the side rail, tip rail .
I want some other information about what effects to the sound when I adjust the tip rail or the side rail .
#Sorry for Bad Grammars
#Thank you for all reply
...Sorry for my bad English...
Thank you !!!!!
Intermediate clarinetist . Buffet Crampon RC . Nick Solist M Mouthpiece. V12 3.5. Ishimori gold plated ligature and Rovner Versa ligature.
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Author: Grabnerwg
Date: 2016-05-25 15:36
Just be careful. By widening the tip rail and the side rails often dull the tone and slow down the response. You have to know what you want to change and take off the least amount of material possible. Remember, you can never put it back.
If this is your first attempt, the most likely result is that you will permanently damage the mouthpiece.
When I was first learning to face mouthpiece, I probably ruined 40 to 50 mouthpieces before I started getting good results.
Get cast off mouthpieces from music stores and repair shops to practice on, before you attempt to adjust the mouthpiece you actually play on.
Walter Grabner
www.clarinetxpress.com
The Chicago mouthpiece is back!
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2016-05-25 23:52
The tonal quality of a mouthpiece is governed at least as much, or even more, by the shape and dimensions of the chamber as by the facing.
The facing has more influence on the response of articulation.
And then there is the subtle interaction of these two aspects.
An experienced refacer would want to measure exactly what your current facing was like, actuality not specification, and what problems you were having/trying to fix before touching it.
People like Walter spend many years learning and practicing the craft/art of mouthpiece work. There is no other way.
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Author: gwie
Date: 2016-05-26 00:22
Walter, if a player wanted to get into mouthpiece adjustment and learn through the experience of experiment with those first 40-50 pieces, what basic set of tools would you recommend acquiring in order to get started?
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Author: Mojo
Date: 2016-05-26 16:35
Check out the Mouthpiece Work Yahoo Group. There are lists of suggested tools in the files archives.
MojoMP.com
Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
MojoMouthpieceWork@yahoo.com
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Author: Grabnerwg
Date: 2016-05-27 02:31
Get the book "How to Reface Reed Instrument Mouthpieces" by Erick Brand. I believe it is still published by Ferree's.
http://www.ferreestools.com/
Although the book is only 24 pages long, it is packed with the wisdom of a lifetime.
Start there - most of us did......
Walter Grabner
www.clarinetxpress.com/barrels.html
The Grabner Barrel is back!
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Author: Mojo
Date: 2016-05-27 16:49
The refacing book info appears as a few chapters in the EB3 Erick Brand Repair Manual still in sold by Feree's. Though I think the facing schedules have been omitted.
MojoMP.com
Mojo Mouthpiece Work LLC
MojoMouthpieceWork@yahoo.com
Post Edited (2016-05-27 16:51)
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Author: bassclarinet101 ★2017
Date: 2016-05-28 22:18
I will check the repair manual for if the refacing information is in there, and will note the pages if so. Ferree's is at the very least out of stock on the Refacing booklet and kit (L37, I think?).
I just picked up 50 or so junk mouthpieces and plan to learn a little bit of the trade myself, hopefully with one mouthpiece being decent at the end of the 50. I can't attach the documentation I plan to use as it is an excel file, so sorry on that front.
The baffle is a particular focus of mine, as I have a desire to calculate baffle information more exactly.
-Daniel
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2016-05-29 12:25
I think you can get the basic kit from JJ Babbitt. The glass, feeler gauges, tip gauge, not sure what else comes with it. (574) 293-6514. It's a good way to learn, along with the book suggested. Babbitt bought the Erik Brand product several years ago. The glass is different, but it works. The kit is kind of expensive, but it should last a lifetime, unless you drop the glass. and spill water on the gauges! The glass will break, the gauges will rust. I've been doing this since 1977 or so, feel free in writing if you have questions. There's a lot of tricks to learn to keep from destroying mouthpieces over and over, by making the same mistakes. Here's the problem, most of the time you are unaware that you are making mistakes and you could make these same mistakes for many, many, years and never get it right.
As far as baffles/chambers I can measure a baffle within a human hair or less. I've made special gauges, so with experience you can measure every part of any mouthpiece, by building special tool and gauges, including measuring the bores. The old Chedeville's had larger bores so I made reamers to cut the bores wider. This alone effects the tuning of your horns. Some of the older Cheds were just a shade shorter, about a 32nd of an inch, so you have to be careful and not ream out the newer Cheds and Kasper mouthpiece bore.
So get the kit first, master refacing, spending hours on the table, making sure it is flat or has a French curve, or you will fail every time trying to get the rails even. Hope this helps.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
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