 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: WhitePlainsDave
Date: 2016-03-28 22:19
I noticed that Buffet makes it an option in their R13.
http://www.buffet-crampon.com/en/content/r13?f=48&l=10%2C11%2C12
Maybe it's been that way for a while, but I noticed it only today.
Would this mean, than under the presumption that the keys from most R13's are interchangeable (or maybe not) at a good repair tech's hand at least, that one could order the keys to affect this on their Golden Era R13?
I don't know that Buffet will sell the hardware let alone could it be retrofit on existing R13s.
While I don't live or die by having this key, with its introduction on the R13, at least as an option from Buffet, might anyone have comment on the feasibility of this idea?
Oh--of course--I wouldn't expect the same key for both Bb and A R13 instruments.
Post Edited (2016-03-28 22:20)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-03-28 23:34
Duplicate post.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2016-03-28 23:36)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-03-28 23:35
Attachment: signet100lheblever 001.JPG (714k)
If you want it fitted as Buffet currently do (with the lever running on the outside of the existing LH levers), then it could probably be done if you sent your clarinet to them to fit it as it will need an extra set of pillars fitted.
The sunken pillar set under the LH F/C key rod isn't an easy thing for most repairers to fit unless they have the special drilling jigs or the right set-up to drill the hole for that pillar as it is drilled in very close to the bore. There's only around 8mm of wall thickness so the risk of breaking through to the bore with such a deep drilling is very high.
And then they need to drill the rod screw holes through the pillar and lining up dead centrally with the stud pillar, then fraising the faces on both pillars and cutting out a recess in the wood either in the same operation or a two step process. Fraising the outer pillar will create a lot of generated heat due to the friction of cutting out so much metal due to the angle the pillar is set at in relation to the rod screw which can cause the pillar threads to loosen due to the heat. Buffet most likely have a CNC milling machine do this that uses a cutting wheel of a specific width to face/fraise both pillars and cut the recess in the wood in one go.
A similar style LH Ab/Eb lever can be mounted on the LH E/B rod screw having a telescoping barrel like the trill keys as that will be far less invasive - only altering or changing the LH E/B lever barrel to accommodate the LH Ab/Eb lever barrel and also hard soldering a linkage piece to the Ab/Eb key pad cup. See attachment as that's the type I fitted to a Selmer Signet 100 clarinet whose owner ditched their RC Prestige in favour for, but missed the LH Ab/Eb lever.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2016-03-29 09:27
I have played an R13 with the left Ab/Eb lever mounted on the same tube as the F/C lever. It's the same concentric mechanism as the two flute trill keys. It worked very well. The finger-touch was outside the left F/C touch, rather than higher above the E/B and F#/C# touches, but I had no trouble getting used to it.
This requires no hole drilling or extra posts.
Ken Shaw
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-03-29 09:43
I've seen that on a Buffet and Howarth used to fit that type to their S1 clarinets.
I've fitted it to a Peter Eaton International for a player that wanted it - scroll down to the second to last box on this page (and to my plastic Yamaha in the last box):
http://www.clarinetperfection.com/clAltKeywork.htm
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
