 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: knotty
Date: 2015-05-14 21:53
In re-assembling clarinet after a overhaul, is it wise to put the same screw back where it came from? (assuming there are multiple same screws)
Thanks!
~ Musical Progress: None ~
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-05-14 22:36
Definitely - even more so on older clarinets as point screws especially will have a variety of wear on them and may cause keys to bind or be too loose if they're fitted in places other than where they originally were.
I either leave point screws in the pillars but may also stick them into a wine cork in their relative positions on the joints (along with needle springs) so they don't get mixed up if you're polishing the pillars and don't want to get your fingers torn to ribbons.
I arrange rod screws in their relative places on a screw board which is a piece of wood with rows and columns of blind holes drilled into them.
But if you're only removing a few keys at any one time, put the rod screws in their relative key barrels so they don't get mixed up.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: knotty
Date: 2015-05-14 23:07
Thanks kdk and Chris, Yes I have been keeping them in order but will make a wood board. Maybe a combination key and corresponding screw board.
Chris I had gotten much valuable information from you in the past and appreciate every bit of it. I had to quit playing for a while because of a hernia but now that's OK, I'm back to it.
Carl
~ Musical Progress: None ~
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2015-05-14 23:38
With point screws it's essential to always keep in correct pillar. During manufacture each point screw and/or hinge recess is individually adjusted to give correct fitment so every one is going to end up slightly different.
With parallel pivot screws in theory it shouldn't matter but even here in practice it can make a difference.
I even try to ensure that wood screws (Thumbrest, guards etc) always go back into their original place in fact everything on an instrument should always go back exactly where it came from unless there is a very good reason to alter that.
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Author: fskelley
Date: 2015-05-14 23:59
So it would not be wise to attempt an interchangeable parts demonstration a la Eli Whitney 1801, using 10 identical brand new clarinets? Alas, even Eli's demo with muskets is rumored to have been faked.
Stan in Orlando
EWI 4000S with modifications
Post Edited (2015-05-15 00:00)
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Author: knotty
Date: 2015-05-15 04:27
Thanks Norman, I've been keeping each screw in the proper place. I guess it came from my auto mechanic dad who reminded me put the same bolts in it's original hole. He left me with many precision tools, many suited for work on clarinets, like inside mics.
I finally cleared my workbench today and made it ready to start doing work again on clarinets, feels nice, everything in place without clutter.
Carl
~ Musical Progress: None ~
Post Edited (2015-05-15 04:30)
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2015-05-15 05:41
Even on a modern clarinet, point screws wear unevenly and rods develop curves. It's essential to put everything back where it was.
Put on a chef's apron and lay it across your worktable. Then put a bath towel over it. This keeps things where you put them. More important, it keeps small parts off the floor.
Lay the keys on the towel in an exploded view as you work.
Like Chris and Norm, I always put the point screws back in the pillars and push the rods through their tubes or back in the posts without the keys. This guarantees that they won't get mixed up.
Ken Shaw
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Author: knotty
Date: 2015-05-15 07:40
Thanks Ken, yes I learned a good while ago about losing those tiny screws, think I spent 2 hours crawling on the floor looking for one. Finally found it a amazing distance from where I thought it would be.
~ Musical Progress: None ~
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Author: fskelley
Date: 2015-05-15 09:02
...and/or a small flashlight aimed along the floor (parallel to the floor).
Stan in Orlando
EWI 4000S with modifications
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2015-05-15 22:32
... and when all else fails put a fine piece of cloth gripped in the hoze pipes of your vacuum cleaner like a filter to trap whatever you pick up.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-05-15 22:51
Thanks for the compliment Carl, glad you're back on form again - nothing more frustrating than not being able to work or play due to an injury or condition.
Do be aware that some alloys of stainless steel aren't affected by magnets - even the strongest neodymium magnets won't attract them. I prefer to have hard surfaces in my workshop - I've covered my bench with large green cutting mats and have a vinyl tiled floor so I can at least hear the general location where screws land - but they are often found several feet from where they initially landed.
Fortunately older clarinets from before the 1950s and many after use silver steel screws which will be picked up by the smallest of magnets and will also take nicely to being tempered blue unlike stainless steel which just goes a funny dull colour.
But stainless steel screws can also be a blessing as they don't rust - had my 1958 Selmer CT had mild steel screws instead of stainless steel ones throughout, it would've been a very different story as the clarinet had been kept in a damp environment and dried out many years back, so chances are they'd have all rusted up making removal a massive effort.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: knotty
Date: 2015-05-16 04:11
Good info on the screws Chris, and as soon you mentioned the green cutting mat I got mine out from when I was trying to learn sewing...haha!
I think all my clarinets are from about 1970's and later. Luckily, I haven't run into rusted frozen screws, just some awfully tight ones.
Today I was trying all sorts of liquids that might remove that heavy coating on the keys, not much luck, only thing I found that worked pretty well was plastic scratch remover for Lexan, Plexiglas. I'm trying to get away from the motorized cloth buffing wheel. Like someone mentioned earlier, the keys get too slippery from a high mirror polish.
While I'm thanking people, I'd like to extend the thanks to so many others too on the board that helped with great info and techniques.
~ Musical Progress: None ~
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2015-05-16 05:41
Be careful with any polish intended for Lexan or other plastics. They can be pretty abrasive. What I use for small areas of plastic is toothpaste. It is slightly less abrasive. Less abrasive than either of the above, but still to be used carefully, is MAAS Metal Polish. It works well on clarinet keys and is available on line.
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