 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Jeroen
Date: 2015-03-23 13:17
I have a full-boehm Selmer 9* that plays very nice except for the right-hand g/d. This note is very stuffy and restistant. Opening up the c pad to allow extra venting did not help much. Is there something I can do to fix this, e.g. undercutting the tone hole? Or is this a problem in the design of the full-boehm 9*?
Any information is welcome.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-03-23 18:39
How much venting have you got on the lowest three pads? You want the F/C pad to be open by at least 3.5mm.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarimad
Date: 2015-03-23 22:18
Chris - on the subject of your F/C opening I have a similar problem on one of my clarinets but there doesn't appear to be anyway of making the opening any larger. Any suggestions?
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Author: maxopf
Date: 2015-03-23 22:44
I have a similar issue on my Bb clarinet (a pre R13) but it may just be a venting issue. I'm going to bring it to my repair tech at some point and see if he can do anything about it.
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2015-03-24 01:29
Make sure the register tube is clean, and check the amount it opens. You should be just able to slide a nickel between the vent and the pad or cork.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-03-24 03:39
You will have to bend keys to get more opening if the pads aren't opening far enough and you're already using thin key corks on the F/C key and the LH F/C lever, but be careful as a lot of older Selmers tend to have dry solder joints on some key arms, cup arms and touchpieces as the solder didn't always flow through the entire joint but just went around the outside edge of the key pieces leaving voids within the joint, so the key arms or feet may suddenly come away from the key barrels without any warning.
While it's relatively easy to repair this kind of thing once it happens, it is a pain as it may involve needing to be replated if the plating gets damaged due to the heat of the hard (silver) soldering process. On unplated keys it's not really an issue as there's no plating to be damaged (but is still an inconvenience), but the immediate area will still need to be tidied up and polished after soldering.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Jeroen
Date: 2015-03-25 12:59
Well, I opened the F/C key even more by filing down the lever that operates the F/C key from the left hand side and with some bending of keys.
And it worked! The G/D has now about the same resistance as other notes.
Thanks for all advice.
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