 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Sha
Date: 2015-02-26 06:48
Hi guys, I am traveling in India and my Bb clarinet I believe either lost a spring or got unhooked. The result is that my F (concert) note - with all wholes open - it goes flat as it doesn't stay all open any longer by itself. I was wondering where that spring is supposed to be and if there is a relatively easy way to fix it?
Any help is much appreciated.
Shastro
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2015-02-26 07:32
Are the pad directly under the A key and the (1st finger) ring connected to it not coming up? There's a needle spring just underneath the rod holding this pad cup and ring that's responsible for pushing the pad open. Unless it has come out of its anchor hole in the top post, it's probably just come off its hook underneath the 1st finger ring. You should try to find something thin with a flat or grooved end (there is a tool for this but you probably don't have one with you) to push the lower end of the spring back into the hook. You might get better access by backing the rod out that holds the top key assembly in place so the sleeve holding the ring slips a little out of position, which may give you a little more room to work. With the sleeve slightly up and forward, you may be able to catch the spring in the hook without having to push it with anything. A small screwdriver can function as a guide to help the spring into place.
Maybe someone else can give a clearer description - it's easy to do but maybe confusing to read my description.
If the spring has actually come out of the post it's mounted in or has broken off and you don't have replacement springs with you, there's not too much you can do unless you can rig something springy up under the ring to push it up when you aren't pressing it. Or rewrite your music to avoid throat G and probably G# and A as well.
Karl
Karl
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Tony F
Date: 2015-02-26 09:08
Attachment: Spring1.jpg (200k)
This spring is the one kdk referred to. It has probably popped off its mount. A bent paperclip is useful here.
Tony F.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Sha
Date: 2015-02-26 13:35
Attachment: 20150226_145958_resized.jpg (415k)
Thanks guys, very helpful.
I did find the pin/sping and it was detached with the point pointing away from mouthpiece...I kept looking but I cannot see where the tip of the pin should go in?
here is an image of that part ofthe clarinet and the pin in the bckground, on the table....
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Sha
Date: 2015-02-26 13:36
forgot to mention it's a Buffet R13 from 1972 I believe...
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Dibbs
Date: 2015-02-26 13:46
So the spring has come right out. Or has it actually broken off? I think I can see the stub still left in there. If you're travelling and have no access to tools I think your best bet is a judiciously placed rubber band for the time being if you can figure out a way to attach one.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Sha
Date: 2015-02-26 15:26
mmh...I do not see a stub actually, but it could be broken...
where would you put the rubber band?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-02-26 15:49
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/download.html/1,4092/20150226_145958_resized.jpg
That spring has broken off, so you'll need to get a new one fitted. Blue steel springs will break without any warning and at any point in time.
You'll have to remove the throat A and G# keys, the side and trill keys and also the ring keys to get access to the pillar in order to remove the remainder of the spring still in there and also to install a new spring.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2015-02-26 15:49)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2015-02-26 16:44
Only as an emergency quick fix: I'd take a small, thin , sturdy rubberband (perhaps even the type used for orthodontics) and work it around the cup under the "A" key (may have to remove the "A" key to do this) and then work the other end around the thumb ring. Should work ....... I think.
............Paul Aviles
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-02-26 17:47
Luckily the spring has broken leaving a stub which will make its removal much easier compared to having a spring break flush with the pillar - I had one of those come to me the other day, but managed to push the broken end out with a punch. Steel springs don't usually break flush with the pillars, but that doesn't always mean they won't.
The reason you will have to remove so many keys is not just to gain better access to the pillar in question, but some keys won't be able to be removed without causing damage unless you remove others to reduce the risk of harm, so the side and trill keys will have to be removed in order not to bend the linkage arm on the LH1 ring key.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: BartHx
Date: 2015-02-26 21:31
I have fixed similar situations with a small screw driver (to remove and replace keys), needle nose pliers (to remove, replace, and hold onto the replacement spring), and an appropriate steel sewing needle. 1. Remove adjacent keys as mentioned above. 2. Use the pliers to back out the stub of the old spring. 3. Find an appropriate size steel sewing needle (The notch for the tip is probably on the back of the ring key arm on your instrument. Make sure the needle fits tightly into the post with enough left out on the upper side of the post to use as a handle. You may need to trim the point of the needle back to the appropriate length if it is too long. Hopefully, you found needle nose pliers that also have a wire cutter.) 4. Using the pliers to hold the needle by the "handle", heat the rest of the needle in a flame until it is glowing cherry red. 5. Quench the needle quickly in cold water and you have just made an emergency replacement spring. Install the spring in the post and reassemble the keys. Leave the handle in place. It will not get in the way of anything and will be useful in removing that spring when the time comes to replace it with a quality spring. If you can't get access to any tools or sewing needles, go with a rubber band. If you remove keys, be sure to keep track of which screws or rods go with which keys. Screws can be put back into their posts and rods can be put into the barrels of the keys they hold. As you remove each key, make note of how its spring is arranged so that you can put it back the same way. The left thumb ring (throat F) does not have a spring. Be careful that you do not knock off any cork or felt bumpers attached to some keys. On second thought, maybe a rubber band is your best bet if you don't mind the look and if you don't mind doing some polishing later if your keys are silver.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Sha
Date: 2015-02-27 07:02
Thank you all guys, your inputs were very helpful!
I went for the elastic option for now (as I do not have tools either with me) and then once home I will get a technician do the real job...
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: AJsax40
Date: 2020-08-15 11:07
I need good springs to change out weak ones on my old selmer centered tone.
Where can I buy the best ones? I have a few selmers and buffets.
Thanks
Adam's Music
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2020-08-15 13:31
AJsax40, Try JL Smith. Be sure to talk to a tech to match up the Selmer CT springs. The best way to pick the right size thickness is use a caliper that measures in mm's. These springs come in different sizes of course. I think you can buy sets of springs made for the complete clarinet, which often has flat springs as part of the kit.
Here is a youtube post on how to change a sax spring, well the same goes for all woodwinds, such as flutes, oboes, bass clarinets too. I like this video because he covers difficult spring removal techniques. There are other youtube postings you can surely look at. Springs don't cost much, it's actually the tools, an assortment of plies needed to pop these springs out. You can get the already flatten tip springs to keep the springs from rotating inside of the post. With already flattened springs, then you cut them to the required length. To be honest, it's not really hard to do, but I hate doing this type of repair job, because it takes some practice and again, the required pliers can cost $50 and up. Replacing these springs you will most likely prick your finger and of course some blood might come out. Just accept it as part of doing repair work.
Talked about already are the blue springs. You can buy stainless and even gold springs. I've only done one clarinet with gold springs and it does look kind of cool if you have gold posts and gold keys.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc6HgAVbf5k
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2020-08-15 21:07
I have to add this, blue springs can rust too over the years and sometimes lose their tension and strength. For the past several years when horns need to be overhauled or need pads I often put a very then layer of dense grease on the springs, including the flat springs. This surely helps prevent any rust forming on the springs. You can get grease at automotive stores. One small tube will most likely last a lifetime. I've been using synthetic grease for many years.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
