 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: SpiritTalker
Date: 2014-09-29 21:25
Attachment: clar1.JPG (102k)
Attachment: clar2.JPG (93k)
Attachment: clar3.JPG (57k)
Hi. I've just purchased an incredible awesome Selmer 1920s (brevete) full boehm and even though I don't yet have it in my hands, I've been researching the heck out of it. The seller emailed me the serial od 80xx, no letter prefix, and says it's very faint. It is the old oval logo with the intertwined HS below and harp/lyre thingie on top. It is not clear if it is also stamped with the "sgdg" or not. Like I said, I don't have it in my hands yet so I'm just working with pics for now (and a seller that didn't really know much about it.) Conflicting serial number charts have me guessing if it's from 1926, or 1928. BUT, the BIGGEST stumbling block I've reached is the fact that it looks like it has almost a double barrel. What I mean is that there is another metal band below where the barrel meets the first keyed section. In fact there is a key that extends beyond the band and I'm almost certain the instrument does not separate there. I've been scouring over pics of old clarinets from similar era and I have not seen one like it. I'll attempt to upload a pic so you can see what I mean. It crossed my mind it maybe some sort of repair to the wood though I've never heard of such a repair (except to reinforce a tenon.) It seems to be in fine, well cared for condition and I'm very pleased with my "find". I paid $300 plus a little bit for shipping, which seems reasonable for the condition. Anyone have any input with the serial number or the mysterious extra metal band?
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2014-09-29 21:37
Sounds as though it has had a metal band fitted to repair a crack. Before superglue, epoxy and carbon fibre banding this was a commonly used repair technique, although rarely seen today.
Tony F.
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Author: derf5585
Date: 2014-09-29 21:41
In the first picture remember when reeds were sold in paper holders and cost 35 cents.
fsbsde@yahoo.com
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2014-09-29 21:45
The metal rings (called compression rings) are a repair done to the clarinet to close up one or more cracks in the upper joint. The idea is that they compress the wood to keep the crack closed. This repair was relatively common in the early to mid 20th century. Unfortunately I have found that despite these repairs cracks can still open up over time causing leaks. The fact that there are two metal compression rings on your clarinet would suggest that the crack is fairly long (3-4 inches from what I can see in the picture.) be sure to get it sealed up before you play the instrument and you should be fine. You have very nice instrument and you got it for a good price.
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Author: SpiritTalker
Date: 2014-09-29 22:04
Darn, I was afraid of that. :( Does that impact the value? I'm not looking to sell it, of course, but I do want something that is worth what I paid. I am very lacking for techs (or even music stores) in our area. There is a guy about an hour away but all I know about him is that he services the local schools' instruments here. Is the repair something basic all techs would know how to do properly (and not botch)? And approximation of cost for such a repair?
Is there a way for me to tell (once I receive it) how bad the crack is (eyeball down inside the bore with a flashlight perhaps?) I will be bummed to not get to try it out (play it) once it arrives next week (after all this anticipation, lol) SO I guess what I'm trying to ask, is there a way for me to determine IF I can play it without doing more damage to it (til I can get it repaired properly)? Thanks again. 
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2014-09-29 22:13
Playing your clarinet might not damage it per se. I may not have been clear in my original post. What I meant is that you could probably play it safely even if there is a crack. However if you notice that when you're playing it you are squeaking a lot you may want to consider having the crack re-filled. If you wanted to you could refill the crack yourself with superglue. There are many helpful videos online about crack repair and I encourage you to watch some of them.
Unfortunately the crack does significantly affect the value, however $300 is still a fair price for that instrument even if it is cracked in multiple times. Either way it should still be playable after it is serviced and it should still be a great clarinet. A properly repaired crack will leave the instrument playing just as good as it did before the crack.
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2014-09-29 22:18
Oh and BTW there is a fairly good chance that the original repair is still intact and if this is true no other repairs to the crack should be necessary.
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2014-09-29 22:20
There is no reason to suppose the clarinet is actually leaking. I have a 1963 R13 with a single metal band in similar position to that on lower part of your clarinet and it plays absolutely fine.
A quick check is to plug the lower end of top joint with cork (or your hand) and close all holes on the top joint as per playing, don't forget to cover the G# hole in tenon as well, then apply the suction test.
If clarinet pads are seating OK you should be able to maintain a strong vacuum for several seconds at least.
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Author: SpiritTalker
Date: 2014-09-30 01:03
Well that is a relief! Of course I am prepared to tell my husband (if questioned) that it is an embellishment that Selmer added to that model. lol (I can hear the lecture now, about buying a cracked clarinet...this would be coming from a pianist so...yeah.)
But seriously....I have been spending a lot of time studying crack repair. I'm pretty confident that I can do it myself, as sending it away for a week or longer to an unknown tech is scary to me. My other horn is currently getting a new pad and cork from same said unknown tech but I'm not too worried about that.
This is all, of course, if the crack is NOT holding. I have read that a band can constrict movement of other parts of the wood and sometimes make things worse/new cracks appear. Is that true? Also, can a crack be on the inside of the bore? Or just the outside? I am wondering how an inside crack would be glued. AND...without opening up a can of worms...I am leaning towards hide glue. Yes, I read a lot of argument for both super & hide. I am now well informed of both stances. lol I lean towards hide because it can easily be undone if I goof it up (or it needs to be redone) and I feel it is more natural/historical. I also like how it seeps into the grain, and when the moisture evaporates it begins to pull the crack together. Besides, superglue and I have never really gotten along! Too many glued together fingers over th years!
Sorry for so many questions. I do play and have for a long time. I've just never dealt with A) a crack and B) such a special instrument that is almost 100 years old (nor a professional model!) I am both excited for its' impending arrival and anxious (disappointed) to discover this crack issue that's arisen. (or, better, frustration at my failure to notice/research before I put in my final bid.)
I am going to go out on a limb and say this was a potentially decent repair, given the fact they took the time to make it look so pretty (ie matches the rest of the horn)?
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Author: Pastor Rob
Date: 2014-09-30 04:38
Looks just mine (84XX), except the bands. I don't have a case. I had a Leblanc case redone to hold the FB and my eefer. I love the tone I can get out of it. I have a Selmer B* in an oval on the table that Scott Kurtweil refinished for me. Nothing else works on that clarinet. Not even my Lomax Firebird or Charle Bay. I also don't have the original barrel. The one I have came from from a centered tone, I think. Works fine, just has the modern Selmer logo. I read on this board somewhere that the H and S stamp intertwined was to show that Henri Selmer set up the instrument himself.
Pastor Rob Oetman
Leblanc LL (today)
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Author: SpiritTalker
Date: 2014-09-30 21:43
Have you been able to narrow the date for yours? I can't decide if mine is 1926, or 1928, due to differing serial number lists.
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