 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Ben Shaffer
Date: 2014-08-17 23:57
Now in a past life I played the Bagpipes
When Pipers practice they use a 2 piece Instrument called a Practice Chanter or PC
Wood PC's like Clarinets often crack and 99% of the time its the top piece kind of like the LH section of the Clarinet
Now you can use a Plastic PC made of Polypenco or Delrin which is turned on a lathe and avoid the cracking
But the Plastic PC's don't sound near as nice as the Wood
Hmm... what to do?
Well Pipe Makers started selling PC's with Delrin tops.... ( again wood top sections on PCs always cracked)
That said they would leave the bottom piece as wood
This worked very well because a plastic top PC with a wooden bottom sounded every bit as nice as an all wood PC, and better than a Plastic PC
Now could this not be done with Clarinets, or maybe it is or has been done with a LH Plastic section and a wood RH section..... and then maybe it would sound as good as an all wood Clarinets, but at the same time minimizing cracking
Just a thought
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: AAAClarinet
Date: 2014-08-18 00:18
This has been done with oboes. I don't know if it has been done with clarinets.
AAAClarinet
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-08-19 23:26
Lined top joint bores (fully lined or half lined) are also a possibility but aren't offered on clarinets.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-08-20 00:28
I believe Rossi uses a delrin sleeve that extends about a third of the length down (what would be) the top joint of his clarinets.
.............Paul Aviles
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: MichaelW
Date: 2014-08-20 01:23
„...one could approach the problem from the side of cause“:
I wonder why cracks here in this forum are a permanent complaint with modern clarinets even from top manufacturers. I suspect that this might have to do with high output, less availability of first class wood, shorter blank drying time and kiln drying. Older instruments from top quality workshops with low output that stored their blanks for many years seem less prone to cracking: In this respect I am happy with my F.A.Uebel instruments. F.A.Uebel's serial numbers only run from about 5000 (1936) to 17000 (1960). My three Uebels (8642, 11313, 17196) don't show any cracks.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2014-08-20 01:25
http://usa.yamaha.com/news_events/brass_woodwinds/yamahas_new_duet_intermediate_clarinet_combines/
Steve Ocone
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Ben Shaffer
Date: 2014-08-20 02:04
My first Bagpipe Practice Chanter was an all blackwood model owned by my Dad and was made about 1960.
Pipers call the wood blackwood and I am assuming its what we Clarinet Players call Grenadilla.
Well I played it for several months and then it developed..... surprise surprise a crack in the top section.
The Pipe repair man introduced a brass sleeve, and this prevented any further cracks.
That said though I think the brass dulled the sound.
I think wood or plastic are always going to be the better option in terms of sound
The brass over the wood to me was like using a Condom
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Tony F
Date: 2014-08-20 02:05
I have two B & H Bb Imperials, one in wood and one in hard rubber. They both sound good but I've never tried mixing and matching parts. I'll give it a try and see what they sound like. Personally I prefer the sound and feel of the hard rubber instrument.
Tony F.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: BartHx
Date: 2014-08-20 07:57
Stirring the pot again on old vs. new wood. . . . My first wooden clarinet was a mid 1930s Kohlert. While I now have a collection of Selmers ranging from the late 1930s to the late 1960s, the Kohlert is a fine instrument and I have kept it as well. During high school and college, it was my only instrument, so I used it for everything. During football, we would sometimes march in temperatures into the high 20s F. In high school, we would start the year marching at the state fair with temperatures usually 100+ F. I kept the bore oiled with olive oil and it has never had even the slightest cracking or checking. The only clarinet I have with any cracking is my Selmer Series 10. It had a few hairline cracks when I got it. However, by keeping it in controlled humidity and temperature and keeping the bore oiled, they have closed tight and not moved since.
I play in two community bands and sit next to the same woman in both. She plays an old Selmer with a metal lined upper joint. I have no idea if it is a repair or original, but she has very fine tone with it. Although I have replaced a pad or two for her during rehearsals, I have yet to get it out of her hands long enough to do a full re-pad and take a really close look at it.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: BobD
Date: 2014-08-20 16:19
David, I'm in agreement with your explanation. I have a Lafayette hard rubber(or thermoset plastic?) with a brass liner in the upper section. It is an excellent playing instrument much like the big bore Selmers. I'm inclined to believe that "back when" brass tube inserts served production methods rather than cracking problems. The black phenolic was cast around the insert in the same way that Catalin was.
Bob Draznik
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: BartHx
Date: 2014-08-21 02:42
I maintain my own instruments and do basic repairs for friends. However, I would not do any crack repairs for anyone other than myself. My experience with cracks is limited to my own instrument (Series 10) so you can take it or leave it as you see fit. As I have mentioned in previous posts, I collect older Selmers. In my gig bag, I carry my primary instrument (Series 9) and my backup Centered Tone. The rest of my collection spends most of its time on the shelf. I service all of my instruments on a cycle of four to six months and oil the bores at the same time. When I got my Series 10, it had several large hairline cracks (open the thickness of a piece of typing paper or so). I have kept it in constant temperature and humidity and kept the bore oiled. In response to the recent discussions of crack repair, I could not remember exactly where or how many cracks that instrument had, so I took it out today to check it. Not only was I unable to locate any of the cracks, but the one location I was able to remember showed no evidence that a crack had ever been there. Some instruments are going to crack no matter what you do. On the other hand, I have to agree with Silversorcerer that the best bet is to minimize the risk of cracking by providing regular maintenance and care -- including oiling the bore.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
![[whoa]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/smilie10.gif)
