 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: JennROCKS
Date: 2014-06-14 00:47
First off, this is my first post. Hooray! So I have a boosey and hawkes clarinet. My dad bought it at a yard sale about 22 years ago. He had it cleaned and all the cork and pads replaced and had it cleaned. I used it in middle school band and so did my younger sister. It's been I guess 15 yrs since it was played. I'm sure it is in need of maintenance. I got a new tuner metronome combo yesterday. It says I am playing an F when I play an open G. It doesn't appear that any of the keys are sticking or stuck open. My question is why is it playing an F instead of a G? If I play an A it says I playing a G. Is it my clarinet or is my tuner not calibrated correctly?
Also, I would like to try and find out when this clarinet was made. I know it's older than 22 yrs. It is stamped with the serial number 242406 and made in England. It is a dark black color and when my dad had it fixed up they said it is made from wood. I don't know what kind of wood. I can't figure out when it was made.
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Author: fskelley
Date: 2014-06-14 00:56
Clarinets are in concert Bb. So an open G is concert F.
Stan in Orlando
EWI 4000S with modifications
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Author: JennROCKS
Date: 2014-06-14 01:00
Thank you! So it is playing the right note. That's good. Now if I can get my tuner to do concert Bb then it will match up. Thank you!
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-14 01:12
Your clarinet is from 1965 - I had a Series 2-20 which had the number 234701 which according to an official B&H document dated it to 1965. They're made from grenadilla (or mpingo or African blackwood, the Latin name for it being melanoxylon dalbergia) which is what nearly all wooden clarinets are made from due to the density and dimensional stability of this wood.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2014-06-14 01:14)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-14 02:23
Is there a model name or number on your B&H clarinet?
If not, then they're most commonly labelled as the following (in the UK):
B&H Regent - moulded resin body, nickel plated keys
B&H Edgware - wooden body, nickel plated keys
B&H Emperor - wooden body, silver plated keys, scalloped socket rings
B&H Imperial 926 - wooden body, silver plated keys, flat socket rings
B&H Symphony 1010 - wooden body, silver plated keys, large bore, flat socket rings, leather pads from factory, integral wooden tonehole chimneys, rod screws throughout, later models fitted with the Acton vent on the lower joint main action, different length bells on Bb and A clarinets
There are always exceptions to the rules - early Regents were wooden bodied with die cast Mazak keywork, Edgwares and Emperors were also available with both machined PVC or injection moulded resin bodies and Imperials and 1010s were available with ebonite bodies. Regents and Edgwares were also stencilled with a multitude of different names (and some Edgwares weren't stamped at all!), but they're still Regents and Edgwares according to the material they're made from and the keywork plating (usually nickel plate).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2014-06-14 04:07)
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2014-06-14 04:03
"Edgwares and Emperors were also available with both machined PVC or injection moulded resin bodies and Imperials and 1010s were available with ebonite bodies."
I have an Emperor and an Imperial 926 in hard rubber. I believe these were military contract instruments for use in hot humid conditions.
Tony F.
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Author: JennROCKS
Date: 2014-06-14 07:29
Attachment: image.jpg (1661k)
All it says on the clarinet is B&H boosey and hawkes London series 2-20. It has scalloped socket rings. I don't know what the keys are plated with. I'm going to guess nickel? because they aren't tarnished like old silver jewelry would tarnish.
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2014-06-14 08:12
The first side key (Eb/B) is straight, and the left hand F/C key has cross-hatched engraving. These were features of the Reginald Kell model, which dates from around 1960 or -61.
I met Kell when my high school orchestra played at the MENC convention at that time, and he showed me the new model. It was available only briefly.
Kell was still compos mentis at the time, though I've read that he had a long, slow decline due to Alzheimer's.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-14 13:58
My Series 2-20 was like that with the same keywork but mine had the different B&H logo on the bell. I found mine in Texas back in 1986 while out there during the summer holidays for the grand total of $7.75 in a junk sale (along with a silver plated Buescher 'True Tone' alto for $50) and brought it back to the UK where I rebuilt it and played it until I rebuilt my Selmer and then the B&H got stolen when I was at college in 1989.
The long side Eb/Bb touch is like that seen on German and Oehler system clarinets and is very comfortable, but only seen on the intermediate level B&H clarinets whereas the longer C#/G# touch and cross hatched LH F/C touch found their way on all other B&H clarinets.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Ursa
Date: 2014-06-14 18:57
My 1-10 has the same keywork (and B&H logos) as the 2-20 pictured above. I really appreciate the long side Eb/Ab touchpiece, and miss it when I'm on a non-B&H clarinet.
Having small and somewhat shaky hands with a touch of paralysis, I find the oversized touchpieces on my Booseys to be an ergonomic delight.
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Author: JennROCKS
Date: 2014-06-14 19:44
Wow guys! Thank you so much for all of your input. It is amazing reading your responses. You guys really know your stuff. Based off what you guys have told me I think it's safe to say my clarinet is from 1960-1965, is made from grenadilla, and may be the Reginald Kell model. Knowing this information makes me appreciate it even more.
I bought some 1.5 reeds, some new cork grease, and a new cleaning swab along with a music stand and level 1 book. I haven't played this since probably 8th grade and I'm excited to start playing it again. My 7y old son has taken an interest so I am attempting to teach him how to play as I refresh my memory. I have the B&H mouthpeice but it also has a George m bundy signature mouthpeice that was with it when it was picked up at a yard sale so many years ago. I like the bundy mouthpeice better. It fits the barrel better (the B&H may need to be re-corked). Is it ok to use the bundy mouthpeice even though it doesn't match the make of the clarinet?
Also, what is the best way to clean the exterior? There is some dust and debris in the little spaces under the keys etc. I'm thinking q-tips dampened with a little warm water? Would that be ok to use?
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Author: Ursa
Date: 2014-06-14 23:07
You can use nearly any mouthpiece you want with your 2-20. A Geo. M. Bundy will work fine as long as it isn't worn or damaged. If you need a new mouthpiece, the Fobes Debut ($30) and Pyne PolyCrystal ($50) work well with B&H clarinets.
Use a small paintbrush like you'd find with a kid's set of watercolor paints to dust your clarinet.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2014-06-15 07:51
Ursa wrote
"Having small and somewhat shaky hands with a touch of paralysis, I find the oversized touchpieces on my Booseys to be an ergonomic delight."
This is something of a contrast. I have hands like bear paws, and the first thing I have to do with my B & H instruments is to re-profile some of the touch-pieces to get them down to a manageable size. A lot of the B & H instruments I come across have had similar treatment, sometimes done well but sometimes I suspect it was done with a chainsaw and an angle grinder.
Tony F.
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Author: Ursa
Date: 2014-06-15 17:41
My 8-10 has had the throat A and the sliver keys reprofiled. Since getting my 1-10, I've considered putting a stock-profile A key on the 8-10, along with an extended side Eb/Ab as found on my 1-10 and the 2-20 pictured above.
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2014-06-15 22:44
Fine particles on the clarinet and in the case can be a sign that bugs have chewed some holes in your pads.
Steve Ocone
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