 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: concertmaster3
Date: 2014-01-13 22:52
Hi everyone,
The barrel I had made for my C clarinet shrunk and won't accept the mouthpiece or top joint. I'm going to take it to my repair tech and see if she can open it up so that they both fit in, but are there any methods that I could use or any kind of treatments I could give the barrel to keep it from re-shrinking?
Thanks!
Ron Ford
Woodwind Specialist
Performer/Teacher/Arranger
http://www.RonFordMusic.com
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-01-13 23:11
Boy, you need to talk to Dr. Allen Segal off-line for some advice on wood, sizing and treatments.
..............Paul Aviles
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Author: concertmaster3
Date: 2014-01-14 04:23
I was hoping he would chime in I figured it would be good advice for everyone to see though.
Ron Ford
Woodwind Specialist
Performer/Teacher/Arranger
http://www.RonFordMusic.com
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Author: cyclopathic
Date: 2014-01-14 21:22
what wood was it made of? did it shrink overall or the sockets swell from cork grease/saliva?
if you have access to socket reamer (or adjustable reamer) it takes a few minutes. If not you could open it with sand paper, but it would take a while
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Author: BobD
Date: 2014-01-14 17:17
I think I'd try "humidifying" it first to see if the dimensions come back. The danger of opening up the diameters is that if , later, the barrel grows the fit will be loose.
Bob Draznik
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Author: The_Clarinetist
Date: 2014-01-14 18:34
I had a plastic/hard rubber barrel for my C clarinet that was too narrow to fit my mouthpiece so I winded a piece of sandpaper around an axle (about 10 mm in diameter) and fastened it to my drilling machine, using the chuck to tighten the sand paper to the axle. Then I secured the barrel with some paper towel to a vise and began the process of widening the socket. I used the opposite direction of rotation on the drilling machine as the sand paper was winded so as to make it stay well winded. Worked very well. If I had went to my local wind music store they would probably have charged as much for the procedure as for a new barrel.
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Author: kdk
Date: 2014-01-14 23:50
I've done this using the small sanding drum on a Dremel.
Karl
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Author: Alseg
Date: 2014-01-15 00:36
Hold a reed knife (one with an end that is perfectly perpendicular to the blade) such that the blade is 90 degrees perpendicular to the side wall and the socket shoulder then use it as you would a scraper plane (raise a small burr first with burnisher rod)
Or...320 grit paper wrapped on a dowel (o.5 inch() and sand carefully along the sidewall.
Or...a lathe
Or....a Bohm socket reamer, if you have a spare $500
Former creator of CUSTOM CLARINET TUNING BARRELS by DR. ALLAN SEGAL
-Where the Sound Matters Most(tm)-
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2014-01-14 20:30
The Clarinetist quote :- "I had a plastic/hard rubber barrel"
Well it's either plastic OR hardrubber , it can't be both. There is a big difference between the materials.
I'd say that if it was Ebonite (hard rubber) it would have been fairly easy to modify the way suggested. If it was plastic, such as ABS Resin ect, it would have been far more difficult. Plastic is kinda 'sticky' to work with, especially with a blade as has been suggested.
Yes, I know that the term 'Plastic' is any substance that can be MOULDED.
That of course would include hard rubber, but using that broad term , so is Glass.
Mouthpieces are made of 5 basic materials , all completely different from each other. Wood , Ebonite (hard rubber) Plastic (eg ABS Resin ect) , Glass , & Metal (eg , Aluminium) , but of course this is all common knowledge.
Another excellent test to see (smell) the complete difference between Hard Rubber and Plastic. Burn them. Get a piece of each substance and do the test.
The Ebonite will smell of , well , burning rubber. (because of the Sulphur)
The Plastic will smell of , well, burning plastic.
Now that's stating the obvious!
However both are giving off hydrocarbon fumes of different types, and both types of fumes are carcinogenic.
Skyfacer
Post Edited (2014-01-14 20:47)
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2014-01-15 04:04
Question for The Clarinetist.
How can Hard Rubber be reinforced ? It's rubber that's already been reinforced (hardened) by vulcanization (Sulphur)
Skyfacer
Post Edited (2014-01-15 09:07)
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2014-01-15 13:14
I assume that the rest of your C Clarinet is made of the same type of material. A mixture of Plastic & Ebonite. Was this noted with the details of the instrument or is there some sort of mark on the Clarinet itself stating that it is made of this mixture (reinforcement) I'd be interested in knowing the brand of this instrument.
I have a Ridenour Lyrique C Clarinet and it is made of Ebonite only according to the details on T Ridenour's site.
Skyfacer
Post Edited (2014-01-15 13:19)
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Author: concertmaster3
Date: 2014-01-16 03:31
So,
I'm going to try oiling the barrel first, to make sure that the dimensions are going to be stable, and then see about reaming it. A friend of mine is doing a dissertation on barrel making (or something like that...) and I'm going to see if he'll ream it out for me in about a month or so with some regular oiling. My assumption is that the barrel wasn't properly oiled and dried before being made.
Thanks for the advise everyone!
Ron Ford
Woodwind Specialist
Performer/Teacher/Arranger
http://www.RonFordMusic.com
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Author: cyclopathic
Date: 2014-01-17 01:55
concertmaster3 wrote:
> So,
>
> I'm going to try oiling the barrel first, to make sure that the
> dimensions are going to be stable, and then see about reaming
> it. ... and I'm going to see if he'll ream
> it out for me in about a month or so with some regular oiling.
> My assumption is that the barrel wasn't properly oiled and
> dried before being made.
>
or wood wasn't properly dried, polished, finished or it is made out of "exotic" wood which has high shrinkage rate. Oiling 1 month may be too much for grenadilla, but may be not enough for wood with big pores like rosewood.
Also, if you going to have it re-reamed have the intonation/bore size checked/corrected, it is most likely shrunk enough to make highs flat.
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