 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: thatoneclarinetplayer
Date: 2013-11-19 01:16
Im going to replace the cork on my clarinet, its a mid 50's rosewood clarinet that was my grandfathers, from what i can get from the brand it is a Gene and Lavere or a Gene Lavere. What is the best thing i should use to clean off the old contact cement? I dont want to damage the wood by drying it out too badly, and all the recommended ones around the internet people use for plastic clarinets.
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Author: jasperbay
Date: 2013-11-19 02:27
Toluene is what I use for thinning contact cement, works as a cleaner too. If you have some laquer thinner, MEK, or acetone, they'll probably work too. All of these are volatile solvents of varying toxicity, so use Q-tips. All will dry the wood to some extent, but that makes the new contact cement hold better.
Many solvent-type gel paint removers (not the strongly basic types like TSP, that could weaken the wood))would probably work too, but don't get it on the clarinet exterior as it'll remove any oil finish or stain.
Clark G. Sherwood
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2013-11-19 12:05
I scrape it off. Old corks may be put on with shellac. Alcohol dissolves it. Best solvent for indoors is acetone - not as toxic as others.
Steve Ocone
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Author: Lelia Loban ★2017
Date: 2013-11-19 12:42
I scrape off the old contact cement with a special-purpose tool that works quite well without damaging the threaded tenon. I bought the tool online from Ferree's. It resembles a screwdriver with a curved shank ending in a tip that's bluntly wedge-shaped. Of course jabbing and gouging violently with any tool would probably damage the tenon -- be gentle, because removing absolutely every trace of the old contact cement isn't necessary in my experience. I get rid of anything thick, smooth or chunky, but the fresh contact cement will incorporate a small amount of dusty-looking residue from the old stuff, down in the threads. I've never tried to remove every bit of the old cement and I've never had one of my corks fail to adhere.
But lotsa luck if it turns out the previous repairer used something other than contact cement. The curse of the moldy reed on anybody who uses Super Glue on corks!
Lelia
http://www.scoreexchange.com/profiles/Lelia_Loban
To hear the audio, click on the "Scorch Plug-In" box above the score.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2013-11-19 13:32
>> Best solvent for indoors is acetone - not as toxic as others <<
It's significantly worse than alcohol when getting on your skin. Most solvents are. That's why I don't use anythign worse unless I have to and for removing glue I've never had to so far.
BTW I also scrape most or all of it and only use a solvent if necessary or to remove grease etc. I use a plastic or brass (if necessary, it doesn't damage the tenon) brush on a micromotor.
Post Edited (2013-11-19 13:55)
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Author: kdk
Date: 2013-11-19 13:44
Lelia Loban wrote:
> But lotsa luck if it turns out the previous repairer used
> something other than contact cement. The curse of the moldy
> reed on anybody who uses Super Glue on corks!
>
Could you mount a tenon cork with Superglue? I wouldn't have thought (fortunately) you'd have time to lay the cork out and apply it within Superglue's setting time limit.
Shellac is always a possibility if the last repair was done as first-aid by a music teacher who learned before contact cement came into such general use. The few times I've had a student's cork tear or come loose that was mounted with shellac, most of the cement just flaked off.
Karl
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2013-11-19 13:52
"Goof-Off". A mixture of toluene, MEK and acetone, I believe. Very good at removing glue and is a bit gentler on the base material than straight acetone. But stinks to high heaven, open the windows when using
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Author: rtmyth
Date: 2013-11-19 14:58
I used nail polish remover to clean keys being repaded.
richard smith
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Author: BobD
Date: 2013-11-19 15:03
I try to stay clear of solvents as they are dangerous and toxic. I use a "hook" type stylus similar to what Lelia refers to. It's tedious but safe unless you're a klutz and stick yourself. I've never used superglue for tenon corks but have used for underside of touch keys.
Bob Draznik
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Author: pewd
Date: 2013-11-19 17:15
Contact Cement Solvent, Lowes or Home Depot.
I open up the screens in the studio first, and turn on the fan.
- Paul Dods
Dallas, Texas
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2013-11-20 12:10
Protect your hands with vinyl surgical gloves. Avoid latex, which is allergenic, and the thicker Nitrile ones are unnecessary. Get them "powdered," which makes them easier to slip on. Most drug stores and all medical equipment/surgical supply stores stock them, and they're cheap.
I think it's worthwhile to use sheet cork (rather than the reconstituted ground bits) and put them on the tenons with shellac. It takes a bunsen burner or alcohol lamp and a lathe to shape the cork on, but for me that's always been the best way. It's not a job for the inexperienced. Take it to a repair shop.
Ken Shaw
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Author: BobD
Date: 2013-11-20 13:40
Ken.....I haven't found any gloves for my nose.
Bob Draznik
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2013-11-20 13:43
Bob -
A clothespin. Or a fan at your back and an open window. I would advise against a plastic bag over your head, though. The CO2 levels get too high. ![[grin]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/smilie5.gif)
Ken Shaw
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Author: Lelia Loban ★2017
Date: 2013-11-20 13:55
Karl wrote,
>>Could you mount a tenon cork with Superglue? I wouldn't have thought (fortunately) you'd have time to lay the cork out and apply it within Superglue's setting time limit. >>
Some people do manage that job, because I've set up a used, student-quality clarinet (for a friend's child) that I'm pretty sure had Super Glue on the corks. One of them was on there a bit crooked. The plastic just opposite the place where the crooked bit didn't adequately cover the tenon looked badly scraped -- probably exactly the difficulty you point out, Karl. I think whoever did that job fit the corks carefully before applying the Super Glue and then worked mighty fast on one cork at a time, but when that one cork got stuck crookedly where it didn't belong, the (amateur, probably) repairer must have sliced through the overlapping bit and then made a mighty effort to scratch off the unwanted bit of cork and the glue. Anyhow -- Super Glue is not the thing to use on clarinet corks because once those corks need changing, removing them is a mess and a half.
I've never had any trouble with contact cement and that's what I strongly prefer.
Lelia
http://www.scoreexchange.com/profiles/Lelia_Loban
To hear the audio, click on the "Scorch Plug-In" box above the score.
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Author: cyclopathic
Date: 2013-11-20 14:08
Lelia Loban wrote:
> Karl wrote,
> >>Could you mount a tenon cork with Superglue? I wouldn't have
> thought (fortunately) you'd have time to lay the cork out and
> apply it within Superglue's setting time limit. >>
>
> Some people do manage that job, because I've set up a used,
> student-quality clarinet (for a friend's child) that I'm pretty
> sure had Super Glue on the corks.
the only time I've used superglue on tenon was on metal clarinet. Contact cement just wouldn't stay on. Superglue is great for key corks though, and fixing cracks
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2013-11-20 19:52
There are slow-setting cyanoacrylate glues, as well as retarders, which you add to give yourself more time to position the pieces.
Ken Shaw
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2013-11-21 04:01
>> the only time I've used superglue on tenon was on metal clarinet. Contact cement just wouldn't stay on. Superglue is great for key corks though, and fixing cracks <<
Something was probably wrong... maybe greasy tenon or maybe not a good type of contact glue... because contact glue is used for gluing the neck cork for saxophones, which is often glued on metal with no problems.
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