 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Ron
Date: 2010-09-13 09:37
I currently use the ATM system and Dutch rush. However, it sounds like using a good reed knife for very small adjustments may facilitate better control at times. Can anyone suggest the best brand/model of reed knife they know of for adjusting reeds? Also, what is the best way to sharpen a good reed knife? Thanks for your help.
Ron
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Author: salzo
Date: 2010-09-13 10:03
Make your own. I use old Nicholson files, or good tool steel if I can find some, throw them in a fire pit for a few hours, then use a grinder to remove teeth, and shape. Cut and grind thinner the tang, so it can fit in a file handle. I find six inch files work best, but a six inch file handle is too large for the tang, so I grind the tang down to fit a 4 inch file handle. I use different handles, but Nicholson #2 handles work nice.
If you are dealing with sharpening a single bevel knife that already has an edge, I use an Arkansas fine, and Arkansas surgical stone. Usually the surgical is enough. 3 hits on the stone on the bevel side, then one on the flat, then one one on the bevel. I repeat this a couple or three times.
Eventually, I might want to touch up the knife- I use an Arkansas hard, flatten the back by rubbing back and forth on stone- once back is flat, I alternate the bevel side, to flat side, do this maybe ten to twenty times. Then to the surgical stone to do the 3-1-1 .
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Author: beejay
Date: 2010-09-13 10:12
I use disposable surgical scalpels. They last for quite a few weeks, they are cheap and available at any pharmacy (at least here in France)
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Author: Merlin_Williams
Date: 2010-09-13 17:25
I have a Landwell knife as well. Mine is the bevelled type which I bought mainly for working on bassoon reeds. The heavier blade makes for smooth adjustments without any chatter.
Jupiter Canada Artist/Clinician
Stratford Shakespeare Festival musician
Woodwind Doubling Channel Creator on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/c/WoodwindDoubling
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Author: Ron
Date: 2010-09-14 13:35
Thanks to all of you for your responses.
Ron
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Author: Jacob S
Date: 2010-09-14 15:08
I use Muncy Winds' cheaper folding reed knife.
http://www.muncywinds.com/index.php/accessories/reed-tools/bone-handle-folding-reed-knife.html
I've never used a Landwell knife before, but this reed knife is more affordable and has worked fine for my teacher, many of my peers, and myself.
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2010-09-14 15:46
Make sure you buy a knife for left or right handed people unless you get a V or razor type which is great for "scraping" but not cutting. ESP http://eddiesclarinet.com
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Author: Vubble3
Date: 2013-10-27 05:16
I am about to buy a cheap reed knife and is the muncy folding knife really worth it as compared to beveled blades? My budget is around 20 dollars since I do not want to spend a lot on knives.
Buffet Bb R13 A RC Prestige
buffet chadash and moennig barrels
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b40 lyre
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Author: Wes
Date: 2013-10-27 05:40
Well, I've used Vitry french knives for decades for making endless numbers of oboe reeds and they work fine for me. The hollow ground ones sharpen very easily to a great edge to which I put a little curl.
For the clarinet, I rarely would think of using a reed knife, but instead use silicon carbide abrasive paper # 350, mostly for making too hard reeds playable. The clarinet reed is large enough so that it can be easily sanded in the appropriate area. Sometimes, putting an oboe tip on a clarinet reed works, freeing up the high notes while not changing the low notes. One can do that with a folded piece of abrasive paper or use a reed knife. Good luck!
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Author: BobD
Date: 2013-10-27 13:03
Just pick up some 1/4 or 3/16 2 1/2 inch long high speed steel lathe tool bits....or even just one.
Lathe tool bits are excellent for scraping clarinet reeds and each bit has 4 cutting edges. One bit may last you a lifetime but of course they won't impress most clarinet players.
Bob Draznik
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2013-10-27 17:07
I do not make my own reeds, but find that a high percentage of reeds directly out of the box can be made from quite usable to outstanding with some carefully done, light scraping. For that, I have found single edge razor blades from the hardware store work just fine. You can get a package of 100 for just a few bucks and, if they start to dull, you throw them out. Remember, with scraping, if you don't have to look very carefully to see what's coming off, you are doing it too hard. Keep the blade perpendicular to the reed surface so that you are scraping and not slicing.
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Author: personwithaclarinet
Date: 2013-11-06 05:07
I am probably not the best person to answer this question, as I am (a moneyless high school student) in the practice of working on my reeds with a small sharpened swiss army knife.
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2013-11-06 07:39
I agree with BartHx. Single edge razor blades that you throw away when they get dull, usually after each reed is the easiest way to go.
I use to do this back in the Dark Ages when I was using cane reeds.
Now it's Forestone synthetics. Near perfect reeds all the time when you can find the correct resistance grade for your mouthpiece/s.
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Author: John Peacock
Date: 2013-11-06 09:16
Agreed, a razor blade does the job. It weighs nothing and takes up no space in your case.
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Author: Ed
Date: 2013-11-06 12:13
Some may not want to put razors blades in their case. They might be tempting during particularly bad rehearsals.
;-)
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Author: BobD
Date: 2013-11-06 12:23
I agree with single edge razor blades but you can resharpen them too. The tool bits are more rigid however. Sometimes when using a razor blade you can accidently gouge the reed due to the blades's relative flexibility compared to the tool bit.
Nothing wrong with a Swiss army , Boy Scout or switch blade knife either. Having used all of those above I find the tool bit the best and it's almost impossible to cut yourself with them.
Bob Draznik
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2013-11-06 13:37
Exacto knives take razor-sharp blades. The standard #11 blade works best for me, and there is a zirconium-nitride-coated version that should last longer (though I haven't tried them yet) http://www.xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/blades/classic-blades/11-Blade-Classic-Fine-Point.aspx.
I use the Exacto for taking off thin shavings. For scraping, I very much prefer a reed knife. Mine has with a handle shaped like a light bulb, which fits perfectly in my palm.
Gonzalo Ruiz showed me how to turn the knife into a scraper. Begin with a knife made of fairly soft steel (e.g., Vitry). Put a good edge on it and then push the knife forward on the stone, twisting it smoothly to bend the edge in the direction you'll be scraping. Violin makers use scrapers to shape the wood thickness precisely and put a mirror finish on it. The edge dulls quickly, so every few minutes, re-form it with a single push on the stone.
Oboists fiddle with their reeds constantly. I've never met one who used anything but a knife.
Ken Shaw
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2013-11-06 13:46
Ken said :- "Oboists fiddle with their reeds constantly. I've never met one who used anything but a knife".
Well Ken, if you ever meet me , you've met one.
I often use the single edged razor blade to touch up my Oboe reeds. I use to make my own reeds years ago and of course I used the standard cane knife then (with the concave body) Now I"ve found a good source of well made finished reeds (K.Ge. Reeds)
I've found that it's a bit risky to use the my knife on a finished reed. Too heavy. The razor blade is nice and light and perfect for 'touching up'. Best to work with a wet (soaked) reed though.
Skyfacer
Post Edited (2013-11-06 13:53)
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Author: Ed
Date: 2013-11-06 15:25
I tried a reed geek for a short time and did not like it. I ended up selling it. I have heard that some people like them. Part of the problem was that I am pretty comfortable with a knife, so the geek was a kind of poor substitute. It did not do anything that I could not do easier with my knife.
It kind of reminded me of what Opperman once said about reed rush in a masterclass I attended- "It is good for people who don't know what they are doing so they won't do too much damage"
(although I do use reed rush for some polishing and adjustments)
I suppose the reed geek may be valuable for some people, but I would really suggest getting a good knife and learning how to use it.
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2013-11-06 22:39
BobD -- IMHO, if you are using enough pressure to flex a single edged razor blade, you are using too much pressure. You can always take off a little more cane, but you can never put it back. When I am scraping a reed, you have to look very closely to see the shaving that is coming off. At most, the curl is about the thickness of a hair. Perhaps the patience to scrape that lightly then test may account for the fact that I typically get eight or nine good to excellent reeds per box. I used to do it all with reed rush, but I found I could get better precision with a razor blade (a more rigid cutting edge so better control of what is in contact with the reed surface). Whatever you use, it takes lots of practice to become consistent.
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2013-11-06 23:38
A quote from Jack Brymer's book CLARINET. P118. ------ ", or a piece of 'Dutch Rush'- the dried stem of a species of wild grass believed by many players to have special qualities as a reed-shaping agent". "It leaves a smooth surface and seems not to tear the cane-fibres".
Just prior to that he also mentions a sharp blade or a piece of folded abrasive paper also for 'touching up ' a Clarinet reed. (adjusting)
In my experience when I was using cane reeds, 'Dutch Rush' was excellent and easy (safe) to use to do the finishing touches after using a one sided razor blade.
I always thought that the main use of using a reed knife for Clarinet reeds was when you are making them, but who does that nowadays?
Skyfacer
Post Edited (2013-11-06 23:41)
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Author: Arnoldstang
Date: 2013-11-07 13:45
Reed geek is very close to what Bob calls a tool bit.
Freelance woodwind performer
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Author: BobD
Date: 2013-11-07 16:47
Bart: Regardless of how much pressure one uses, a razor blade is going to flex more than a 3/16 square bit. In any event, razor blades and tool bits are cheaper than a Reed Knife. The Reed Geek is in fact a smaller size tool bit and costs almost 15 times as much as a tool bit.
Bob Draznik
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