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 Tuning--where it adjust
Author: Roger 
Date:   2001-03-27 18:35

I mentioned this in another thread but I am not sure everyone noticed.

I have had several fine clarinetist tell me that when tuning (assuming you are sharp when everything is pushed in all the way) you should not pull out only at the barrel. If you do, you make the Concert B-flat in tune but the left hand notes and throat tones can be thrown out of tune. The solution is to pull out atht he barrel and between the middle and lower joints.


One other clarinet player said never to do the above---always pull out only at the barrel.

What do you do?

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 RE: Tuning--where it adjust
Author: Jo 
Date:   2001-03-27 18:41

I personally will tune my open G and if I need to, pull out at the barrel. That will often fix everything on my instrument. If other notes, like concert Bb, are sharp, I will pull out a LITTLE between the two joints. I never do too much, because it will throw everything else flat. In orchestra, we tune to concert A. I will usually pull out the bell a little to keep the concert A down- it's nortoriously sharp on my instruments.

It's rare to get every note in tune my mechanics alone. A lot has to be done by just adjusting embouchure and using your ear....

Best of luck!

Jo

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 RE: Tuning--where it adjust
Author: Don Poulsen 
Date:   2001-03-27 20:21

This and the thread on why clarinets are made with multiple pieces, along with some information I recently read on tuning, prompts this question.

Clarinets are designed so that they will in tune with the barrel pulled out about 1/8 inch. (This allows them to be tuned in either direction - up or down.) Are they also designed to be in tune with the center joint pulled apart slightly or are they designed to be in tune with the center joint fully closed?

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 RE: Tuning--where it adjust
Author: Dee 
Date:   2001-03-27 22:49

Basically it varies from instrument to instrument. You do what works for your particular horn.

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 RE: Tuning--where it adjust
Author: Canadian Clarinerd 
Date:   2001-03-29 18:03


Hmm. I always tend to tune by pulling out the barrel AND the mouthpiece... each a little. Is this recommended? I've never pulled the middle joint.

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 RE: Tuning--where it adjust
Author: Dee 
Date:   2001-03-29 18:12

Canadian Clarinerd wrote:
>
> Hmm. I always tend to tune by pulling out the barrel AND the
> mouthpiece... each a little. Is this recommended? I've never
> pulled the middle joint.

If you find it necessary to pull at both the mouthpiece and barrel, you should look into why you are so very sharp. In a comfortable room (72°F, which is equivalent to 22.2°C) you should only need to pull the barrel a small amount.

Pulling at the middle joint would only be needed if the right hand notes remained sharp after pulling the barrel enough to get the left hand notes into tune.

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 RE: Tuning--where it adjust
Author: Canadian Clarinerd 
Date:   2001-03-29 18:31

Very valid point, Dee. Any suggestions. I am reteaching myself (after a very long hiatis) and have only been at it a few months. I thought maybe the problem was still an under-developed embroucher.

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 RE: Tuning--where it adjust
Author: jerry 
Date:   2001-03-29 22:25

Speaking of tuning.

Is it the open "G" that should be zero beat with the 400 HZ on my metronome?

~ jerry

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 RE: Tuning--where it adjust
Author: Dee 
Date:   2001-03-30 01:07

Jerry,

Are you thinking of A=440? I don't believe 400 hz happens to precisely match any note.

If you have one of the newer tuners that displays the name of the note played, it should show one whole step lower on your tuner. For example, if you play a B natural in the middle of the staff, your tuner should show A (or 440 hz).

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 RE: Tuning--where it adjust
Author: Todd 
Date:   2001-03-30 01:52

Jerry--

You'll get many replies to your question. Here is one, probably more elementary and detailed than you need. (I've been accused--with some justification--of being the type of person who, when you ask, "What time is it?", will tell you how to build a clock.)

Orchestras--groups with strings--usually tune to A at 440Hz; that's the second space up from the bottom on the treble clef. (Some may tune a little higher, say A = 442.) The tuning note is usually provided by the oboe.

Wind bands--groups without strings--may tune to the Bb a half step up from the A. Often the tuning note is provided by the 1st clarinet (fingering C, the third space up from the bottom on the treble clef).

On the metronomes (and some tuners) that I have seen that provide an audible tuning note, that note is usually A = 440. To match that pitch on the clarinet, as you know, you would play written B natural; the middle line on the treble clef.

Open G (no fingers) on the clarinet would, of course, sound as an F, the first space up from the bottom on the treble clef. I don't believe that note is 400Hz.

As far as "beats," since F and A are a major third apart, you can play the F (written/fingered G) and adjust the clarinet tuning (by pulling out or pushing in, or by embouchure adjustments) so that you sound in tune with the metronome, that is, no beats will be heard. But you would not normally tune that way.

Hope this is understandable and helpful.

Todd W

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