 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: joevacc
Date: 2001-03-27 03:19
Hi Guys and Gals,
I have just started to rebuild a metal clarinet and every pivot point is greased with axle grease!!! You know the kind that you pack in bearings on cars and machinery! My dilemma is getting it out. The clarinet is nickel plated so it is pretty tuff but if there is some less toxic way to do it that would be great. I have plenty of solvents in the shed that will do the job but since we have so many people on the BB that are clarachemist, I thought I would ask. Thanks in advance...
jv ;~)
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Author: Willie
Date: 2001-03-27 04:20
Q-tips and or pipe cleaners dipped in any petroleum solvent should get the heaviest part out. For the final residue, especialy in the threaded posts, I would recommend going to an auto parts store and get a aerosol can of "brake cleaner" (make sure it has the little red straw), as this does not leave any residue that might react to the type of key oil you choose later. I use plain old 10W-30 SYNTHETIC motor oil on my keys and have no problems. The synthetic stays pretty close to proper viscosity at a much wider range of temperatures making key responce more consistant at various temperatures. This is something to keep in mind if you practice in cold band halls then play hot outdoor concerts or visa versa. If you have real tight (not worn) keys and you think 10W-30 may be too thick for your horn, try some synthetic automatic transmission fluid. I will be about the same as a 20 weight oil.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-03-27 11:37
It's metal? Keys off? Stand it in a bowl containing petroleumm solvent and attack with a small brush, from the top working down. (A toothbrush is OK with some solvents but others shatter the plastic.) I use Mobil's Pegasol AA which is similar to lighter fluid or camp stove fuel.
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2001-03-27 14:30
We discussed Pegasol in the past, I use inexpensive charcoal fire starter, [its essentially the same] to degrease and at least soften old cork glue for removal-cleanup. It will evaporate to dryness better than auto lube oils. For adhesives that are hard to remove, I'd try isopropyl [rubbing] alcohol and stay clear of volatile solvents such as ethyl alcohol, and NEVER use acetone [or other ketones] or ether because of flammability and lung-hazard !!!! Others please add. Don
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Author: Cass
Date: 2001-03-27 15:28
Is it really necessary to get *all* the grease out? I would just use a pipe cleaner and normal washing to get out the main part of the grease, anything gummy and dirty. You're going to have to put grease back in there anyway so there doesn't seem to be much point in getting it squeaky-clean.
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2001-03-27 16:36
Several good suggestions about degreasing from the experts. I would take issue about the motor oil suggestion for the keys and pivots after cleaning. The problem with many oils not designed for application to keys and mechanisms is that when they evaporate they leave a gummy residue which eventually dries to a hard film(called varnish by the clock makers) which can be hard to remove and ruin the close tolerances needed for smooth key action (3 in 1 Oil is poision in this regard). The classic oil used by many repair shops is Nye clock oil. I would recommend some of the newer aerospace inspired synthetic oils which leave no residue upon evaporation and have a superior metal binding film strength and advanced anti-rust and anti-corrosion additatives not present in the clock oils. Some aerospace oils have a working range of -85 to +300 degrees F with little viscosity changes (good for playing at the North Pole or Death Valley if you wish). There are some good ways to save money on maintenace but oiling is done so infrequently that it pays to buy the best products available.
The Doctor
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Author: jbutler
Date: 2001-03-27 23:20
Go outside with a aerosol can of tri-chlor. That should do it in no time. I keep a can around the shop just for purposes like this, plus to get rid of lapping compound. I use "Gun Scrubber" by Birchwood Casey found in sporting goods stores. Aerosol, plus has a little plastic tube for getting into those tight spots.
John
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Author: Willie
Date: 2001-03-28 01:48
Doc Henderson has a good point about some automotive motor oils leaving a gummy residue. I've seen this. Also some household oils are bad about this. I keep an old metal clarinet behind the seat of my pickup truck that is lubed with the 10w-30 synthetic and it is sujected to some very high temps in the summer down here in S. Texas when the windows are rolled up. So far no problems other than folks staring at me when I choose to get in some quick scales etc.
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Author: joevacc
Date: 2001-03-28 02:15
Willie,
LOL I love that story! Tell it again! LOL Now I know what to do with that old metal beater that I've been to lazy to put on e-bay. It will go great under the seat of my old beat up '47 Chevy!!! LOL
jv ;~)
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Author: Jim
Date: 2001-03-28 04:34
This is surely quite a collection of solvents. Best to remember that nearly all or these are both volatile and flammable to some extent or other and should be used outside or in well ventilated areas only and away from flame sources. You may also assume that breathing fumes from most of these does not promote good health. Don, isopropyl alcohol contains quite a bit of water and while it should be OK here, don't use it where the water content could be a problem. I use "denatured" or solvent alcohol (also called shellac thinner) which is nearly pure ethanol that has been deliberately contaminated with methanol to render it undrinkable (and therefore exempt from alcoholic beverage laws.) Automotive "brake cleaner" is usually some form of alcohol.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-03-28 11:30
But denatured alcohol will do nothing to disolve and clean away oils. It MAY help with gummy deposits.
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Author: Anji
Date: 2001-03-28 12:05
Would Acetone (nail polish remover) work for this?
Most of the solvents described (including Tri-Chlor-Ethane) are highly flammable and more than a little nasty in poorly vented spaces.
As was mentioned above, higher weight petroleum products are dissolved only by lower weight petroleum products. So... light application of WD-40 will remove the axle grease (along with liberal application of elbow grease, the world's best solvent) and then you must remove the remaining film.
I'm a cheapskate, too but there are some limitations on what you may use in such small linkages.
I can only imagine how this thing must have played when cold.
It must have doubled as a grip exercisor, as well.
Don't dip this thing, you'll never get the crevices clean!
anji
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Author: joevacc
Date: 2001-03-28 14:31
I never thought of using it for a grip exerciser! Even in the warm house all of the keys had to be pushed down and then pulled back up!
What do you guys think of a strong solution of Simple Green?
jv ;~)
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Author: Anji
Date: 2001-03-28 20:46
Why not?
The stuff is not too nasty, but works reasonably well.
Check to see if it leaves a film when dry...
Get a plastic bag and spray the stuff on. Next morning, do the "wipe test".
If it hardens, or forms a polymer it may do the same within the interstices of the linkage (probably a bad thing).
anji
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