 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Tammy
Date: 2001-03-26 02:56
i found a GREAT way to remove tarnish from silver.
i used this on my mouthpiece cap. you can probably use it on your silver ligs, loose parts, etc...and maybe if you decide to remove your keys.
<a href = "http://www.scifun.chem.wisc.edu/HomeExpts/TARNISH.html">http://www.scifun.chem.wisc.edu/HomeExpts/TARNISH.html</a>
this works GREAT! The black tarnish disappeared immediately from my mouthpiece cap. no rubbing or anything! just dip!
sorry...i'm very excited.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Nate Zeien
Date: 2001-03-26 03:45
Note that this is a science experiment, and may not be practical, or safe for clarinets. Certainly you can't dip the whole clarinet! Also, if you try to take the keys off, and dip them in this solution, you will more than likely completely wreck the pads. Another thing to consider, is that some chemical treatments will leave the metal more prone to react with oxygen, sulfur, etc... For example, you can leave a copper penny in vinegar for a while, and it will come out nice and shiny, but will then oxidize again very quickly. Sometimes it is best to leave the natural patinae on metals. For example, copper pennies usually tarninsh, and will eventually become a somewhat shiny brown color. This actually prevents the green copper oxidation from forming. I'm not saying that you should leave your clarinet keys tarnish, but please, <i>do</i> be careful. -- Nate Zeien
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-03-26 11:54
Heed Nate's wise words. More info on
http://www.silversmithing.com/care.htm
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Kontragirl
Date: 2001-03-26 20:52
I prefer an ounce of prevention rather than a pound of cure. I use my polishing cloth on my clarinet before I put it back in the case. If you don't let tarnish form, you won't have to take it off.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Willie
Date: 2001-03-27 04:59
A big concern to me would be the flat springs if left on the keys. If not dried and oiled quickly they could ruined. If taken off, those little screws can disappear very easy. Would there be an electralasis (sp) reaction between the steel and the aluminum?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Hiroshi
Date: 2001-03-27 06:25
It is a clichee method of silversmithing.
Of course you should disassemble the keys and dip them.
However, American Silversmith Society says this should not be done for
heavily tarnished silver works since the tarnish immerses deep into the body and
if the tarnish is off, deep pitcting holes would occur.
The way is very miraculous.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-03-27 12:17
The springs need to be all removed. Any spring screw holes should be plugged because it would be practically impossible to remove corrosive substances from these holes afterwards. I think that probably pivot tubes should not be plated inside. They could jam. Even if they are quite worn, because cleaning prep is difficult here plating could peel easily, causing problems with pivots jamming, especially if they need to be 'tooled' to adjust the fit.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Torvald Simmons
Date: 2001-03-27 18:36
holes??
doesnt the treatment above turn the tarnish back into silver instead of removing like the other chemical treatments?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: David Kinder
Date: 2001-03-27 23:46
One of the things that really worked well for my R-13 was to buy some Flitz from the local hardware store (Leblanc also sells it, so you know it is safe for your instrument). Be careful with the pads, and use an old sock to apply and rub out the tarnish. It's incredible! Flitz sells for about $5 or less.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-03-28 11:47
I think it MAY be naive to believe that bvecause LeBlanc sells it it is safe to use on silver. the folowing site suggests Flitz for a wide range of metals, from the very hard, like chrome, to the very soft like silver and gold. Any polish that is abrasive enough to polish chrome is going to remove a great deal of silver. You may as well get out the sand paper! On the other hand sany polish that has a very mild abrasive suitable for silver will have no effect on chrome.
Surely, any polish that CLAIMS to be suitable for both hard and soft metals (and evern ceramics!) is just throwing aroung marketing BS. I could trust noything the company says. By the way, does Leblanc sell it for polishing silver or for nickel plating?
http://www.as-seen-on-tv-shopping.com/flitz-liquid-metal-polish-8-5oz.html
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: David Kinder
Date: 2001-03-28 16:11
I've used it for all-around polishing. I've used it on my brother's Bach Strad trumpet with awesome results. My R-13 keys are nickel-plated and it worked great for them as well.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Kontragirl
Date: 2001-03-28 20:51
I love my tube of Flitz! I use it on my marching horn and my contra. My wooden one is still very shiny, so I just the polishing cloth that comes with it.
Torvald,
You can pick one up at just about any music store. The basic idea is just to wipe all of the skin oils off the horn. I'm sure any soft cloth would do the same job.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-03-29 07:55
David it may well give "awesome" results. However if the poloish is too abrasive you may well wear right through the silver plating after 10 to 20 polishings. You will have no idea you are doing this until the base metal shows through.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
