 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: curlyev
Date: 2013-06-03 21:36
3rd line B is not wanting to play...it sounds choked, especially when going up the scale, down the scale not so much. I have checked screws and everything. This clarinet was recently serviced (1950s wooden Bundy) about a month ago. It is still sticky from the repadding, new cork,etc. I have tried to get all of it off...no pads appear to be sticking or anything. It was completely overhauled pretty much. I can't figure out the deal. There is this one screw that looks like it needs tightened, but it really is as tight as it will go
Any suggestions? Symphonic band starts tomorrow, and I really don't want to show up with my plastic clarinet (although it does play well for plastic) and look silly. There's no ban on plastic instruments or anything. lol
Clarinet: Wooden Bundy 1950s
Mthpc: WW Co. B6 refaced by Kurtzweil
Lig: Various Rovners
Barrel/Bell: Backun
Reeds: Legere 3.75
OKC Symphonic Band (just started this summer)
*playing 22 years (with a 5 year hiatus) and counting*
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Author: Burt
Date: 2013-06-03 22:21
Could there be a leak in the lower joint? Try blowing into the top of the joint, covering the right hand holes, and blocking the end with the left hand.
Did you switch bells recently? In my experience, the bell affects middle "B" more than any other note.
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Author: curlyev
Date: 2013-06-03 22:31
I haven't switched bells, but the bell that came with it is a Pedlar, so it's not original. I will try one of my other bells on it and see what that does.
I checked for a leak, but I'm not feeling one. The sound it makes when I play B does sound similar to leaks I've had in other instruments in the past, though.
Clarinet: Wooden Bundy 1950s
Mthpc: WW Co. B6 refaced by Kurtzweil
Lig: Various Rovners
Barrel/Bell: Backun
Reeds: Legere 3.75
OKC Symphonic Band (just started this summer)
*playing 22 years (with a 5 year hiatus) and counting*
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2013-06-03 23:18
Could be the ol' crows foot problem. If the B sounds ok with BOTH the LH pinky "B" down and the RH "C" pinky down, then you just need to make the "C" key come down more (along with the "B" key cup). The Ridenour repair video shows him inserting cork shims, I prefer (dare I say) judicious bending. I prop the tip of my thumb under the crow's foot then just exert a little pressure on the "C" cup. Continue until there is parity.
..............Paul Aviles
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Author: kdk
Date: 2013-06-04 02:19
curlyev wrote:
> It
> is still sticky from the repadding, new cork,etc. I have tried
> to get all of it off...
What does this mean? Why is anything sticky from a repadding?
If Paul's suggestion is right - that the B plays when both pinkies are used (one on the B lever and the other on the C), then it might explain why it's better when you play downward, since you have then just played C and are probably leaving that pinky down while you add the B key.
If you aren't comfortable trying to adjust this yourself, you might take it back to the shop that serviced it a month ago - if it's a crow's foot adjustment it's a quick job that should cost next to nothing (might do it gratis since he only recently worked on it), although leaving things sticky makes me wonder...
Karl
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Author: curlyev
Date: 2013-06-04 04:19
I don't know why it's sticky, maybe because it was oiled and glued and all the other things that go along with an overhaul. I've never had to have a clarinet completely overhauled before, so I guess I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like this or not.
I probably will take it back to the shop. The guy that did it is really good, so I think he will quickly take care of what it is. I never thought of crow's foot, and I am now almost positive that's what it is.
Thanks guys!
Clarinet: Wooden Bundy 1950s
Mthpc: WW Co. B6 refaced by Kurtzweil
Lig: Various Rovners
Barrel/Bell: Backun
Reeds: Legere 3.75
OKC Symphonic Band (just started this summer)
*playing 22 years (with a 5 year hiatus) and counting*
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2013-06-04 17:50
If the spring pressure on the r.h. Ab/Eb spatula key (which has a very short lever arm) is too low, as it often is, that pad will actually lift slightly (and/or vibrate) under blowing pressure. This can also prevent the 'long' clarion B, which is the most resistant note on the clarinet, from sounding. Try increasing the spring tension.
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Author: Paula S
Date: 2013-06-05 08:39
If the screw is dodgy it might need replacing. I had a problem with my eefer where the B got more and more resistant. I checked the screws and it seemed okay. Then just before a concert it became really resistant. When I looked again it had fallen out. Fortunately one of the players who is also a tech managed to 'fix it', although he didn't have a spare screw to hand. We were playing outdoors at a big country show. I was sent on a mission to find a cocktail stick and located an olive seller with plenty of said sticks ( of course I bought olives too!). Then with cocktail stick inserted in the place of the screw, my eefer played really smoothly :-). My tech friend said he had discovered this trick when he was playing at sea and had lost a screw and couldn't get hold of a suitable replacement. Apparently it lasted 3 months!
Of course he has found me a new screw and repaired it since and all is good! :-)
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Author: Lelia Loban ★2017
Date: 2013-06-05 13:21
Good suggestions here -- Karl added,
>If you aren't comfortable trying to adjust this yourself, you might take it back to the shop that serviced it a month ago - if it's a crow's foot adjustment it's a quick job that should cost next to nothing (might do it gratis since he only recently worked on it), although leaving things sticky makes me wonder...
>
Yeah, that makes me wonder, too. An overhauled clarinet shouldn't go home sticky. Sending the instrument home in clean condition is part of a thorough overhaul that includes re-padding. Even if the tech is usually excellent, it's possible he got into a deadline jam or life happened or something -- and he finished this job a bit too fast. I think you're making a good decision to take the clarinet back to the technician.
Lelia
http://www.scoreexchange.com/profiles/Lelia_Loban
To hear the audio, click on the "Scorch Plug-In" box above the score.
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2013-06-05 18:11
Yep, sounds like one of the pads on the B-C is leaking. Either not covering without a lot of presure or not coordinated properly. This can easily happen on a student instrument because the keys bend to easy. Be very careful putting it in the case after getting it fixed, at the repair shop. By the way, you should not be feeling anything sticky after an overhaul. I've never heard of that.
ESP eddiesclarinet.com
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Author: curlyev
Date: 2013-06-05 21:15
This is a vintage 1950s wooden Bundy, and I do not want it damaged, so I have taken it to another repair person who has offered to look at it and probably fix it for free. He is also a fellow member of The OKC Symphonic Band. He will be completely honest about it, and if it is beyond his level of expertise, he will direct me to someone who can fix it.
This horn plays in tune and sounds beautiful, so I want it to play as long as possible.
You all have been helpful as usual. I thought the "sticky" part was a bit iffy too, but several people said it was normal. I know it won't be sticky when I get it back this time.
Clarinet: Wooden Bundy 1950s
Mthpc: WW Co. B6 refaced by Kurtzweil
Lig: Various Rovners
Barrel/Bell: Backun
Reeds: Legere 3.75
OKC Symphonic Band (just started this summer)
*playing 22 years (with a 5 year hiatus) and counting*
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2013-06-08 13:54
It sounds like a substandard adjustment, resulting in the E/B &/or F/C pads not sealing properly. There can be many causes, eg poor pad alignment with tone holes, pads too thick, sloppy pivots, poor linkage adjustment, insecure post, non-level tone hole edge, chip in edge of tone hole.
Also possibly a partially blocked register tone hole.
See how this note sounds while a second person is squeezing the two low pads tightly shut.
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