 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Taras12
Date: 2013-05-24 14:39
Can anyone give me some advice regarding reed adjustment. I agree that while many reeds can be played right out of the box, they just play at what could be their best. There are a number of reed adjusting kits out there. What seems to work best? Ridenour ATG System/Reed Geek or just an exacto knife, sand paper and a sheet of glass?
Tristan
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Author: Tobin
Date: 2013-05-24 15:03
I prefer the Ridenour ATG system, which doesn't solve all problems but makes such an improvement with minimal investment of time.
If you search "Ridenour ATG" you'll find discussions of it and other methods!
James
Gnothi Seauton
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Author: rtmyth
Date: 2013-05-24 15:37
Ridenour plus Romancing the Reed, by Ben Armato, which appeared in The Clarinet , Volume 19, number 1, pages 32-35
richard smith
Post Edited (2013-05-24 15:54)
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2013-05-25 03:32
Here's what I do:
I buy reeds at least a full number stronger than I will play them. I soak them in a pot of water for 10 minutes. Then, I pick a reed and look at the butt to see whether it's higher on one side than the other.
I sand the bottom on 400 grit sandpaper over a 9" x 12" piece of 1/2" thick plate glass, pressing fairly hard on the bark and not at all on the vamp. If one side of the butt is high, I press down harder on that side to even it out.
I then wet the reed again and sand lightly with my index and middle fingers on the vamp and my ring finger on the bark, and nothing on the tip.
I then put a US Postal Service prepaid postcard on the glass -- the tan kind with no writing on the back. I rub hard over the whole bottom, including the tip. I'm looking for a near-mirror polish on the bottom.
I repeat the process several times over the course of a week until the reed has stopped warping.
Next, I put the reed on the mouthpiece and twist the clarinet to the right on its axis to block the right side and let the left side vibrate freely. I blow a forte middle G. Then I twist it to the left to check the right side on G. One side will almost always be harder than the other.
I remove the reed and hold it up to the light to find where the thicker, darker part is on the hard side, and I shade that darker area with the side of a soft, dull pencil.
I then scrape off the pencil marking with a knife and test the reed again, continuing until the reed is balanced.
If there are thick, stiff veins running down the vamp, I scrape them lightly with the sharp tip of my knife. Other people use a needle. Go gently. It's very easy to scrape all the way through the cane, particularly near the tip.
Finally, if the reed has gotten too soft, I clip the tip.
This has been my method for 50 years. It works for me.
Ken Shaw
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Author: pewd
Date: 2013-05-25 15:26
4x4" flat ceramic bathroom tile from Home Depot ($0.39)
400 grit wet/dry sand paper.
A few passes over the sand paper on the flat tile, 2 swipes on the back of the reed, and one pass on the top of the reed (careful - avoid the tip), and I'm good to go.
A week or so later I'll make a few adjustments with a knife, but that takes much practice and you need to have it demonstrated. Ask your teacher?
- Paul Dods
Dallas, Texas
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2013-05-25 21:00
Check my website, I have several articles, free of course, that have appeared in the Clarinet journal seveal years ago. I cover breaking in, humidity control and many tips on adjusting you reed. Check it out.
ESP eddiesclarinet.com
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Author: Taras12
Date: 2013-05-27 23:56
Thanks for all your suggestions.
I broke down and bought the ATG system by Tom Ridenour. After a few attempts on some less than perfect reeds, I think I got the knack of it. Leveling the table and heel of the reed really improved the playing even on my "best reeds." Working the tip and ears really improved the resistance. I found the 320 grit way too heavy, which softened the reed too much. I backed off to 400 and 600 grits, AND let the sanding block do the work. The best thing is not having to pull splinters out of my lips anymore.
Tristan
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Author: rtmyth
Date: 2013-05-28 13:12
400-600 grit is fine; also, I preferred needle files, which allow working on small areas at a time. Available from Sears, etc.
richard smith
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