 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2013-04-17 07:44
I got a Leblanc LL whose keys are in a rather sorry state. The clarinet is a very fine player, but replating the keys quite probably can't be justified.
We decided to just smooth and buff the rings and other touchpieces, but of course they'll tarnish or get rough again within a couple weeks. Is there any suitable lacquer or so that would resist finger acidity over a reasonable period of time?
(The instrument is relegated to outdoor and marching gigs, so won't see as much use a the player's regular instrument)
--
Ben
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-04-17 10:07
As it's an LL I could easily justify having the keys replated.
If it was a Normandy or Noblet, then I wouldn't think it worthwhile unless the odd key needed nickel plating.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: bmcgar ★2017
Date: 2013-04-17 11:52
Not the answer to your question, but I'm with Chris about re-plating it. And if the instrument plays well as my LL does, it would be a shame to use it in a rough environment.
B.
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2013-04-17 13:20
Try nail polish on the worn areas. If you don't like it it is easily removed.
Steve Ocone
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2013-04-17 15:42
I just overhauled on older Larilee oboe with keys that looked very much like those on your Leblanc, Ben. The original silver plating was almost completely gone and the base metal was pitted.
I wasn't able to get the keywork looking really good, but it's more or less tolerable now after doing the following (first removing all the keys and stripping them of their pads and corks):
- First application of metal polish (I use Brasso or various brands of silver polish)
- Rubbing with ultra-fine (#0000) steel wool
- Rubbing with white polishing compound (as found in auto parts stores)
- Second application of metal polish
- Buffing with very fine buffing compound.
- Third and final application of metal polish.
A whole lot of work, and still the keys mostly feel rough and have a matte finish. But the worst of the pitting, and all of the green tarnish, are gone.
In an ideal world with unlimited funds to use, I would have sent the keys out to be replated.
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2013-04-17 18:55
The LL plate looks like nickel rather than silver to me.
Leblanc sadly went through a period when they started plating with a very thin layer of nickel and I have seen quite a few of their models with similar symptoms.
I suspect that the material underneath the plate is probably quite sound and not really pitted so replate could be worthwhile (but not sure how easy nickel plate is to remove.
Alternatively a good clean followed by nail varnish can help but you will probably need to redo this at intervals.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2013-04-17 20:50
well...what ballpark figure are we talking about for a replate including post-process steps such as reboring (sans repadding) ?
(I bought that honker for about $80 a year ago...)
--
Ben
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2013-04-17 21:05
Ben, ask these guys:
http://www.andersonsilverplating.com/
I've never used them but I understand they do a lot of band instrument plating work.
I don't understand your 'reboring' question, though --- have you been reincarnated as Vito Pascucci? [never mind......]
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2013-04-17 21:40
I was under the impression, that the various hinge tubes need work as the plating doesn't just hang onto the visible parts. But maybe they fill them with wax or so prior to plating, I don't know.
--
Ben
Post Edited (2013-04-17 21:41)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-04-17 22:10
They usually plate everything including the insides of the key barrels as the wires pass through these for conductivity, so these will all need to be reamed out after plating and then fraised back to fit between the pillars. Nickel plate is usually only applied a few microns thick as it's a very hard metal and blunts reamers, barrel fraises and other key fitting tools like anything.
Although saying that, I did a minor key alteration on a Noblet alto clarinet to make the side Eb/Bb touch point straight down instead of the usual 90° and the nickel plate was at least 20 microns thick, so took some doing to file it off (it bubbled with the heat of silver soldering so had to be removed).
My full Boehm LL has silver plated keys but with nickel plated pillars which isn't unusual for Leblanc, so if the pillars are in good order, there's no need to get them replated. That will involve having to tap out the threaded pillars for the screw threads (for both rod and point screws) and reaming out the outer pillars to the same diameter as the rod screws so they pass through easily. There's no need to mask the pillar threads (the ones that screw directly into the joints) as they will go back in reasonably easily enough although they will be a tighter fit, so will be less prone to turning round under spring tension..
Unless you've got all the various taps, reamers, barrel fraises, countersinks, etc. then it will be a huge undertaking refitting keywork after a full replate. Leblanc use a narrow diameter but fairly coarse thread on their rod screws.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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