 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: gmofclarinet
Date: 2013-04-03 20:19
I have a student that has a buzzing sound coming out when he plays a low A to the first line E (A3 to E4). The buzzing stops when I lightly touch the top two side keys as if something is touching those keys...? We have sent it to a repair place but most places in my area can't seem to get things fixed so it still is buzzing. Does anyone have any ideas what could be happening?
Thank you!
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-04-03 20:24
The gaps between the side keys are very small, so if any two side keys touch you'll get a sympathetic buzzing from them. Check the gaps between the lower (touchpiece) ends of the side keys by sliding a piece of paper along the gaps and checking along the length for any resistance - if the paper catches, note the position with a permanent marker pen in the area where the resistance is felt (permanent marker ink is easily removed with alcohol, so won't harm the plating). It's easy enough to cure by having the side/trill keys bent by a very small amount to increase the gaps (less than 0.3mm is sufficient) in between so they no longer make contact with each other.
I've noticed this mostly on Buffet clarinets.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2013-04-03 20:25)
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Author: gmofclarinet
Date: 2013-04-03 20:33
Thank you for the info! I will definitely try that. I believe it is a Yamaha.
I have found other issue's with students who have Buffet clarinets.
Like the third line B played with the right hand only... the top key pad at the bottom doesn't like to close all the way.
And when students try to play first line Eb with (1|1) fingering, the pad connected to the D key doesn't go all the way down.
:-/ Oh the joys of working with the clarinet. (I love it!)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-04-03 20:44
Those are common problems which usually arise from keys being bent by poor handling during assembly/disassembly - they're easy to sort out by having the keys bent back to put it back into regulation, but leave it to an experienced tech to do this.
Another thing I see a lot is the RH E/B key being bent so there's a large gap between the underside of the RH E/B touchpiece and the crow's foot - again this is due to poor handling of the clarinet during assembly, but is also easy enough to put right.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2013-04-03 22:02
I see/hear this problem all the time, especially on the larger clarinets with their longer and more noodle-like side trill keys. My solution is to find where (along their lengths) two such adjacent keys are touching or nearly so, and to glue a small rectangle of very thin Teflon sheet material (or very thin cork) onto the side of either one of the keys at the point of actual or near-contact. As long as the material is thin enough there will be little or no added friction to the key motions, but the actual or potential buzzing will be eliminated.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-04-03 22:18
I've seen old Selmer basses which had thinly sliced sheet cork glued to the sides of the side/trill keys and in the trill key guide to prevent buzzing or clattering through contact. I've often replaced it with teflon sheet as that means minimal friction should they make contact.
On soprano clarinets there's often not as much room between the trill keys to be able to do this, so it's best when servicing or repadding clarinets to check you can get a strip of A4 paper to slide easily between the side/trill keys to be certain there aren't any points of contact along the lengths of the keys.
Another thing to check are the clearances between ring keys and their chimneys if you get any unusual clicks or buzzes (or sticking keys) - check the entire circumference with a strip of paper and if any resistance is felt, either bend the ring keys or shave a tiny amount off the tonehole chimney depending which is easier or more appropriate to do. On some clarinets the ring key arms can make contact with the body joint, so a clearance slightly wider than the key arm has to be cut into the wood (following the shape of the key arm) so this too won't cause any buzzing or preventing the ring key pads from closing properly.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2013-04-03 23:55
Careless assembly can create another problem that I have seen many times. If you wrap your hand around the upper joint and twist it into the lower joint, you will put sideways pressure on the trill keys. This can build up enough sideways play in the top two trill keys that is great enough that the pads periodically will not seat correctly. The instrument becomes occasionally unplayable. It is then necessary to swedge the two keys to correct the problem.
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