 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: AmandaSmith107
Date: 2012-08-08 05:35
I have two clarinet that I can either send to the shop or fix myself. On one, the cork on the middle joint came off. It's still in one piece and looks as if it can still be used. How (and should) I put this cork back on? The second horn has a cork that's too thin on the middle joint, causing the horn to be extremely wobbly. Is there a way to fix this without replacing the entire cork?
Thanks!
Amanda
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Author: Clarineteer
Date: 2012-08-08 06:12
If the cork that has come off in one piece has been on the instrument for sometime which I believe is the case then it is proper to put a new cork on. Cork is a living substance and the petroleum contained in cork grease eventually kills it and it becomes compressed. You can buy genuine cork that is precut and use contact cement to glue it on allowing about 48 hours for it to dry completely. There are quite a few threads on this board that will tell you the step by step procedure to do this. They can be found using the search function. I would suggest replacing the damaged cork on both instruments.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-08-08 10:11
It's easier to replace tenon corks with new ones rather than trying to stick the existing one back on.
With contact/impact adhesives (Evo-Stik etc.) the tenon has to be cleaned and degreased thoroughly before applying the adhesive thinly and evenly to it and also the strip of cork, then wait for several minutes for it to become touch dry. The strip of cork can then be bonded to the tenon and is ready to be sanded - you don't have to wait 48 hours for it to dry and it can be used immediately once bonded.
The risk buying precut cork strips is they may be too narrow, so best buying a sheet of cork and cutting the strips from that (making them the same width as the recess in the tenon) and you will have more than enough to redo all the tenon corks with in one sheet.
The thickness of sheet cork that's usually sold for tenons is either 1/10" to 1/16" (2mm to 2.5mm) thick. If the slots in the tenons are cut deeply, then it's best to glue a strip of thinner of cork (or rubberised cork) in there first (1/32" or 1mm thick), then glue the normal thickness tenon cork on top of that.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Clarineteer
Date: 2012-08-08 12:06
Does the Evo Stick have the fumes that contact cement does which requires wearing a quality mask?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2012-08-08 12:45
Not anymore - it used to have toluene as the solvent, but the new formula hasn't. You should still use it in a well ventilated room if unsure.
I've never worn a mask or breathing apparatus when using the old or new formula as you're not using loads of it in comparison to glueing on formica work surfaces.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Clarineteer
Date: 2012-08-08 13:56
I now use the traditional contact cement which requires a good mask and works perfectly if you do not mind waiting until it is fully dry but I will try the Evo Stick thanks to your expert suggestion.
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Author: pewd
Date: 2012-08-08 14:45
You need to replace the entire cork, and use new cork - don't reuse.
I use contact cement from a Lowes or Home Depot.
Make sure the tenon is cleaned off or the new glue won't stick so well.
I scrape the old cork off with a knife, then clean the tenon with paint thinner on a q-tip to get the old glue off. Then clean it up with some steel wool, and now the tenon is nice and clean, then the new glue will adhere well. I have a nice big airy studio so don't worry about the fumes either. I just open the windows when working on cork repairs.
Get someone to show you you the process the first time if you can.
As others stated, you need to get the thickness correct, or you'll end up just having to redo it. Do you have a clarinet teacher who can show you? Or perhaps a tech at a local music store will let you watch? Then you can learn how for future repairs.
Good luck!
- Paul Dods
Dallas, Texas
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2012-08-08 14:59
The amount of exposure you have to glue fumes when replacing a tenon cork is negligable. As long as you use it in a ventilated area it won't be a problem. I'd certainly use a mask if I were doing bench tops, but never for 2 square inches of tenon cork.
Tony F.
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Author: vljenewein
Date: 2012-08-09 21:28
I replaed a few corks on tenons and I used Gorilla super glue. It helped to lightly moisten the end that would come in contact with each other. One end was sanded at a 45 degree and I cut and sanded the other end to match the 45 degree in the opposite direction so when put together, they met and formed as one joint, with just a couple mm overlap. Once I got the cork cut and sanded to where I wanted and the tenon nice and clean, it was just a matter of putting on little circular rings of the Gorilla Superglue on the tenon and then putting the cork on it and holding it for about 20 seconds to make sure it was set well. Then I used cork grease and lubed it up liberally and installed it so that the cork would be compressed and hold tight agasint the new addition. I leave it together overnight and then take apart. Worked perfectly for me.
Vernon
Jenewein Duduks Manufacturing & Research
www.duduk.us American made Duduks
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Author: MichaelW
Date: 2012-08-09 22:56
Attachment: cork.jpg (95k)
Prepare a cork strip with a 1 cm wedge-shaped end (see my rather crude sketch), apply contact cement evenly to tenon, down side of cork strip and upper surface of wedge. Put cork strip tightly on when dry. Press hard for a moment. Cut off long end of cork strip. Sand down cork evenly without damaging tenon (!). A sand paper file (strip of sanding paper glued on a 1/2’’ batten) or, better still, a small orbital sander (e.g. here in Germany “Fein” brand) makes work easier and more exact. Don’t use superglue or two part epoxy for wearing parts like corks or pads or you’ll have trouble next time. I’m inhaling glue and resin fumes for over 50 years and my brain and liver are still (hopefully) working. In earnest: I think the exposure by repairing clarinets is minimal if you don’t do it every day 8h a day.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2012-08-10 04:58
Theoretically, you could reuse the first cork and it might work (and it might not), but there are many good reasons not to do that and I wouldn't. Only do that if you absolutely can't buy a new cork for about $7 http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/products/cork-100.html and/or the few tools you need to cut it to size. To add a layer over the second cork would be mostly the same as replacing it anyway, so no real advantage and only possible issues.
Re the thickness Chris mentioned, I've never used 2.0mm-2.5mm thickness for tenons and have never seen this thickness suggested for tenon cork sheets. thic thickest I would get is 1.6mm (1/16") and usually prefer to use no more than 1.2mm.
>> Sand down cork evenly without damaging tenon <<
One tip, sand the edges before gluing the cork, then if you have to sand after you only need to sand in the middle. I sand the outer edge a bit more for more easily assembling but sand the inner edge only very slightly, to keep better support for more length (of the tenon... the width of the cork).
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Author: Clarineteer
Date: 2012-08-10 07:03
Using any type of superglue such as Gorilla glue will make it very difficult to remove the glue residue next time anyone has to change the tenon cork.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2012-08-10 11:38
There are places in instrument repair where epoxy and superglue are the right thing to use. Tenon corks are not one of them. Anything you do with a tenon cork has to be easily reversible, because at some time it will need to be replaced again.
Tony F.
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