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 Good pads
Author: vljenewein 
Date:   2012-07-17 04:24

I just got in a nice enough Boosey & Hawkes Bb clarinet, but it needs to have some new pads. Corks are fine, just pads. I have seen pads on auction of "He-who-must-not-be-named" and was wondering if the Chinese ones are alright or what there is out there for good pads? Beautiful Grenadillia wood. Has one post that is a bit loose so I took it out and will get some J-B Weld Woodweld tomorrow and seat it back in there. Also I notice that this English made clarinet does not have the same dimensions for fitting as does my other clarinets. You cannot simply put in another section and expect it to work, as it won't mate up.

Vernon
Jenewein Duduks Manufacturing & Research
www.duduk.us American made Duduks

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 Re: Good pads
Author: clarnibass 
Date:   2012-07-17 04:41

I've tried a bunch of Chinese pads and they varied a lot. Some were terrible. Some weren't so bad at all. None were as good as the pads I usually prefer to use. Maybe there are some excellent pads from China but I haven't seen any yet.

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 Re: Good pads
Author: Ken Shaw 2017
Date:   2012-07-17 11:53

It's "authentic" to use leather pads on a B&H. However, I got a Hawkes & Son claimed to be freshly padded in leather and it leaked like a sieve.

Raymond Wodkowski says that B&H clarinets work best when there's plenty of clearance between the pads and the rims.

I think it's worth the extra cost to buy pads you know are good. It's not like you re-pad your clarinet every day.

Ken Shaw

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 Re: Good pads
Author: rtmyth 
Date:   2012-07-17 12:14

I used cork and white kid leather. Excellent in every respect.

richard smith

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 Re: Good pads
Author: vljenewein 
Date:   2012-07-17 12:29

I was also wondering about this gasket material we use at the winery. It is NOT some goop in a tube, but rather a long sheet of white rubber, food grade, that is about 1/8" thick (will measure) and pliable. We use to to cover the lids of some of the stainless steel tanks and then put the original lad back in place forming an air tight seal. I'd have to cut it to dimensions, but is does have a slight give all the time.

Measured piece at work. Actually closer to 1/16" or as calipers put it 0.068" thick 2 pieces glued together would be 0.138" plus you can add a small few thousandths for the glue between to probably 0.1406" What I measured of a pad that came out was 0.125" or 1/8", so I might have to look around a bit for such thickness. Like one poster said above it might be better to have a bit more gap than less gap in the pads to contact area.

Vernon
Jenewein Duduks Manufacturing & Research
www.duduk.us American made Duduks

Post Edited (2012-07-17 15:17)

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 Re: Good pads
Author: clarnibass 
Date:   2012-07-17 18:03

>> However, I got a Hawkes & Son claimed to be freshly padded in leather and it leaked like a sieve. <<

Of course this was because of a bad repair or poor quality porous pads. An excellent repair with very good leather pads would not leak.

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 Re: Good pads
Author: stevesklar 
Date:   2012-07-19 16:27

There are posters here who make their own pads.

theoretically any material that one can cut well and prevents air penetration can be made to work.

The question comes to installation and being able to adjust a pad after installation. And then what happens with the material and the tonehole afterwards ... is it squishy, takes an indent immediately and keeps getting deeper or more solid, etc etc etc on how it feels under the fingers and it's durability.

unfortunately the only real way you are going to find out if your material is any good is to try and use it.

But buying a pad set even extra pads themselves really isn't that expensive. try musicmedic.com and start reading up on it.

here's a started page from Ferrees too (it's not the clearest but ok)
http://www.ferreestools.com/Back_To_Basics_files/Page818.htm

but as clarnibass has eluded too, you can buy the most expensive pads available but they aren't going to install themselves. there still is skill and technique to do pad installation and setup correctly.

I've received freshly repadded clarinets and have had to start from scratch on them

==========
Stephen Sklar
My YouTube Channel of Clarinet Information

Post Edited (2012-07-19 16:40)

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 Re: Good pads
Author: David Spiegelthal 2017
Date:   2012-07-19 16:41

My favorite for years, on every size of clarinet (plus I've used them on flutes and oboes, blasphemy!!!!) has been Ferree's B32 tan leather pads. I will say no more.

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 Re: Good pads
Author: vljenewein 
Date:   2012-07-19 21:46

Went up to Holland, MI last night for supper and stopped at Meyer's Music and picked up 10 clarinet pads, 9mm. So now I have some pads that will fit in the receiving holder/keys. Last time I did a repad on a clarinet I bought 3 pads from them and put them on a Selmer Bundy I bought for about 26.00. It now plays very nice. I used Gorilla Super Glue gel, just a drop on the pad and then placed the pad into the cup. Seemed to hold quite well. I have watched a video of clarinets being made and it appears that they use "Hot Glue" and then place the pad into the cup when a small amout is put in there. If you are interestd I can provide the YouTube link so you can see the video and how it's made.

Vernon
Jenewein Duduks Manufacturing & Research
www.duduk.us American made Duduks

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 Re: Good pads
Author: vljenewein 
Date:   2012-07-20 14:57

This is the superglue I have that has rubber particles in it. Resilient and tough. Should work very nice!
http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=super-glue

Vernon
Jenewein Duduks Manufacturing & Research
www.duduk.us American made Duduks

Post Edited (2012-07-20 15:35)

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